if switching out my v-6 for a v-8 proves to be too difficult and costly, what are the best upgrade combinations for under $3500? do they make superchargers/turbochargers for 92 v-6's? if so, anybody know how much HP they'll actually add? also, how effective are K&N filters and march underdrive pulleys? thanks alot yall.

*TomP, if you read this, I looked on the supercharger board but couldn't find any people putting one in a V-6*

 

There are no companies to my knowledge that are manufacturing turbo's or superchargers for our application. But I can guarantee if you did find one, it would be very expensive and more than likely not worth the money. If you're worried about computer incompatibilities, etc. for a V8 swap..get an older carbed V8...nice and simple..and just run it without a computer.

K&N air filters are a nice upgrade over paper or foam filters. The catch is...a typical paper filter will flow near the same as a K&N for, say, the first week or so. But as time goes on, the paper gets clogged up...a K&N continues to flow very high numbers for a long time, not to mention they last a lifetime. After 50,000 miles, buy a $15 filter recharger kit, clean it, and it's good for another long haul. Of course it's always good to clean it before this..50,000 miles is a long time for it to accumulate crap.

Underdrive pulleys will free up a horse or two on any car you throw them on..it's called parasitic power loss. I've heard that some people with this motor can't run the alternator underdrive pulley though because it drops the alternator output too much and causes battery discharging...but a crank pulley should leave you just fine. Removal of the smog pump is also a good way to cut back on power loss through the pulley system, although this will throw your emissions and systems for a loop.

 

dang, well that's not the news i was looking for. my original plans for the car was to switch out the V-6 for a 1999 SS LS1, but there's way to many difficulties with that. (it's possible but i don't have the $$ to pay for the engine and tranny plus the custom work to get the engine and tranny to fit right). sooo i figured if i could get some good hp without the new engine it would be much easier. oh well, back to the drawing board.....

 

Yep..sorry for the bad news, but these motors simply refuse to push power. It's rather disappointing. His username escapes me right now, but there's a board member here, I think he has an 89 Camaro..but he's got a completely rebuilt 2.8 with all sorts of internals and motor work done...real hardcore stuff..I think it's even been bored and stroked to a 3.1 or 3.2..not sure...in addition to other stuff like suspension and transmission.....but he's one of the most heavily modified V6 board members and I believe he runs high 15's, but don't quote me on any of that. My memory SUCKS! ALthough those numbers are on all motor, not nitrous...which is damn good for this car, but the point is...not worth modifying this engine unless you really want to. If you still want to keep a V6 and want an easy swap, I suggest a 3.4 You go from 140 to 160 hp and 185 to 200 ft lbs, and the 3.4 seems more willing to make power... Just a few suggestions...

 

thanks for the suggestions. hopefully i'll be able to go thru with the switch. i was really hopin to crank out some low 13's instead of 15's, but who knows if the engine switch falls through, i'll go for whatever hp gains i can get..thanks for your help

 

LOL, that's because nobody's done it (and nobody ever will, either)!

 

uhh yeah, i already found that out from nixon1's post, thanks any way, pal

 

I know that you probably don't want to hear this either, but the cheapest way to gain some real seat-of-the-pants Horsepower is nitrous (not noss, or nawss). I have a 75 HP shot on my 3.1 liter 1992 Firebird, and it has been on there since spring 1996. Believe me, 75 HP is something that you will definitely know is there, and the kit I used (for an 86-93 Mustang 5.0) was about $450 dollars. You will have to do a lot more and spend a lot more on your current engine to get that kind of HP gain. If you want to know more, just ask. I actually didn't want to use the nitrous. I was going to get a centrifugal supercharger, make my own brackets, upgrade the fuel system, and try to run about 6 PSI boost on the stock engine. That would have cost me about $3000 in parts, plus a bunch of fabricating time. I was in college on C0-OP at the time, so $450 was much more manageable than $3000, or even more.

 

i had very briefly thought about nitrous before but had heard alot of stories about the NO2 'backfiring' and destroying the engine. is that only possible if it's set up wrong? 75hp for $450 would be great, i just dont wanna be out $800 for my engine because of it

 

You're welcome, don't mention it, buddy.

 

The type of nitrous system we're talking about here is a dry type, plumbed into the air intake tubing. Considering it's an EFI car, there can't be any sort of backfiring up that high to ignite any of the mixture say, in the manifold. What you DO have to worry about is nitrous detonation. Be very very very conscious of your timing, and buy a high grade light because crappy ones can be inaccurate. Make sure your timing is retarded...I'm not sure what a good setting is for these cars..pontiacguy1 should know. I wouldn't advance it any past the stock if you plan to hit it. Also, be very careful about your air/fuel mixture. Over-advanced timing will cause a detonation that can blow your piston rings...I know, my #8 cylinder has lost a lot of compression from what I suspect was a nitrous detonation. (125 psi, where it should be 155-160 psi). Also, running lean with the nitrous will also damage the motor..I believe it can scorch and warp your pistons, all sorts of nasty stuff. But if your timing is right where it should be, along with your AF ratio, then that nitrous setup should provide you with years and years of worry free instant power. The dry kit really isn't a dangerous kit....that's just a stigma that goes with nitrous. The more dangerous version is a wet kit.

 

No one has put a supercharger on a MPFI 2.8l in an F-body. The only thing I like about the 2.8l is the fact that it gives me great mileage and the engine is so small that I can actually stand inside the engine, allowing me to access the engine stuff better.


Even if you managed to mount a custom supercharger setup, you would only be able to around 6psi of boost which would roughly translate into an extra 30 bhp max. That is not a great power increase for something that would cost 4 grand.


Ours cars would need a lot of boost pressure to be really potent. The 2.8l is one of the worst starting points to build a fast f-body from, which most everybody realizes and usually swaps in a small block or even a big block.


I myself am keeping my 2.8l. I want to see what it can do in my F-body. It will cost me some $$$, but I don't mind much. I have a low craving for speed. I don't even care about going the 1/4 mile. If I can get my thirdgen to run 0-65 in the 5 second ball park with my 2.8l, I'll be more than happy.

 

Could you explain a little more about this? I don't know about the timing, air/fuel mixture, AF ration, all that. Is this something I manually can control? Or does it change when you add aftermarket parts? The car I'm putting it on is completely stock. Any info about this would be great cause I'm in the dark about all this.

 

Dev...0-65 in 5 seconds is pretty damn quick! Best my 'maro could pull before I sold it was 8.28 with a new cap and rotor, plugs, wires, cat, catback system, and new rear tires. And that was my BEST time..my other was 8.5 or so. I managed the 8.28 only because SOMEHOW I managed to get my rpms just perfect without a tach and hooked it straight away. Damndest thing...only time I was ever able to pull it off. Not a hint of tirespin, and no engine bog either.

 

Well like I said, the timing needs to be stock or possibly retarded from stock to maybe 8 or 9 degrees. If the timing is advanced too much it will spark too early and that nitrous will royally screw your engine up. The AF ratio, I'm not sure what it exactly is at wide open throttle... The computer controls that, but for it to work, you have to have ALL of your sensors operating properly...emissions control sensors are VITAL. I can't stress the importance of a proper oxygen sensor enough. With all sensors working right, and a good computer, the AF ratio should probably be decent enough to run the kind of shot we're talking about here. The only easy way I can think of to richen the mix (with nitrous, you never want to run lean....a tad rich is on the safe side as a matter of fact.) is to buy an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I believe kicking up the fuel pressure will richen the mixture a tad. But there are others on the board that can fill you in more on this.

 

To answer some of your questions, I did absolutely nothing to the timing in my car. I have owned the car since it was new, and it has never been moved. The one thing you definitely cannot do is advance the timing any or add any kind of aftermarket computer chips. Those usually advance the timing, which will cause detonation, commonly called spark knock, when using the nitrous. My car even has the stock fuel system and fuel pressure regulator. The system uses a line to put pressure on the fuel pressure regulator when you are spraying. This will raise the fuel pressure, which will add more fuel. It seems to work really well on this small a shot. You will also need to run 93 octane gas when you plan on using the nitrous. Any other time and you can use the cheap stuff. If I plan on using mine, I will fill it up with high octane and then drive it for a while with that before I hit the juice.

I have been telling people this for a while now, but don't fool with a kit made for the 60 degree GM V6. It costs about 150-200 dollars more than the Mustang kit, which works just fine. I installed it exactly like the instructions said to, and it has been great. Be sure to call the NOS tech line to get jet recommendations and answer any questions.

 

there is a company that makes superchargers for a bunch of different types of engines, including our 2.8 V-6 i beleive, the compnay is called Fageol, im pretty sure superchargers is all they do, but im not absolutely sure though

 

How about some Sidedraft fuel injection for ya?

 

WRONG!!! Check the power adder board and look up guido... he's doing a v6 twin turbo'd 4th gen (although its a GN motor, it can give you an idea) also look up saturn5, he did a twin whipple setup which could be done on a v6 as well

 

I do believe Tomp was refering to the 60 degree V6 not the 90 degree V6, since most of us here have the 60 degree V6.

 

still doesn't mean you can't apply that to any other motor, be creative (although the 2.8 i hear can not handle much power)

 

True, but you have to be very creative for the 2.8l. I think I am done talking about turbos and superchargers.


I always prefer natural aspiration, I only like the turbos that either came from the factory or were offered as a kit. I try to avoid any radical customization as possible.

 

there's already been done a twin turbo 2.8, but in a datsun.

how's this for a relatively low buck engine combo: (not FI though) Fageol Supercharger on top of a 3.4 swap. :rockon: