Whats up with having like no acceleration
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 977
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From: Smithfield RI
Car: Hardtop 84' z/95' Cheyenne
Engine: 305 H.O./4.3L
Transmission: 5-speed manual/Auto
Whats up with having like no acceleration
My engine is stock .. its got some miles on it but it runs pretty well.
Its had a basic tune up ... plugs wires and all fluids were changed
I can be going about 20 and have the pedal to the floor and it will; take a couple seconds to get to 25 it accelerates extremely slow. Whats up with her? Anything to give her quick acceleration?
Its had a basic tune up ... plugs wires and all fluids were changed
I can be going about 20 and have the pedal to the floor and it will; take a couple seconds to get to 25 it accelerates extremely slow. Whats up with her? Anything to give her quick acceleration?
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 945
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From: NJ
Car: 1990 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 3.1L v6
Transmission: Automatic
these cars dont accelerate well from a rolling start. even the v8's have a heard time pulling when they are already rolling. i'll check mine tomorrow and see how long it takes to get to 25 from 20, but going WOT seems to bog it, while gradual throttle keeps it accelerating better.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Like 1986 said..check your timing...any check engine lights? I assume you replaced your air filter with the tuneup? Or is it in decent shape? How's your cap and rotor? How about your coil? Discount Auto Parts sells a coil tester made by AmPro for $7..look for it in the AmPro section of miscellaneous tools. It's like $7 and is a really easy and SAFE way to check for a no-spark condition if your car won't start, but it also will help you determine what condition your coil is in by observing the color of the spark jumping from pin to pin inside the tester. Just make sure the dial gap is set to E for HEI ignitions. It's a great tool...even has a ground clip on it so you don't shock yourself with 30,000+ volts.
ALSO...is your kickdown/passing gear operating when you put your foot to the floor?
ALSO...is your kickdown/passing gear operating when you put your foot to the floor?
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,036
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From: Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 357ci Stealth Ram - Under Pressure
Transmission: Built 700r4/Pro Yank 3400 Extreme
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.27
Yeah,
When you are going 20, it should kick down to 1st gear.
Your slow acceleration could be because it don't go down into first and stays in 3rd/2nd.
When you are going 20, it should kick down to 1st gear.
Your slow acceleration could be because it don't go down into first and stays in 3rd/2nd.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
It's all about picking and choosing the races ain't it Mike??
Although I gotta admit it was ballsy as hell for you to take on the newer V6 Stang...much less beat him! Damn!
Although I gotta admit it was ballsy as hell for you to take on the newer V6 Stang...much less beat him! Damn! Trending Topics
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Smithfield RI
Car: Hardtop 84' z/95' Cheyenne
Engine: 305 H.O./4.3L
Transmission: 5-speed manual/Auto
Hmm no check engine light .. maybe manually shifting it from 1st after a nice tune up would help? By nice tune up i mean oil change tranny fluid change antifreeze change valve cover and plenum gasket change new plugs and wires.
Im getting a megashifter so ill be wanting to slap the gears around anyway .. would starting in 1st help acceleration?
Im getting a megashifter so ill be wanting to slap the gears around anyway .. would starting in 1st help acceleration?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 977
Likes: 0
From: Smithfield RI
Car: Hardtop 84' z/95' Cheyenne
Engine: 305 H.O./4.3L
Transmission: 5-speed manual/Auto
No i cant feel the kickdown working when i go WOT and no ... i didnt replace my air filter.. it needs it now that i think of it and ill get rid of that crappy canister while im at it too
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
No kickdown = mega slow. Check your TV (kickdown) cable out. Is your car shifting properly, or does it feel like it's shifting too early/too late, or it's too hard or too mushy?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 977
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From: Smithfield RI
Car: Hardtop 84' z/95' Cheyenne
Engine: 305 H.O./4.3L
Transmission: 5-speed manual/Auto
Seems to shift ok most of the time but it could shift firmer.. could you give me a pic of the TV cable im automatic transmission illiterate
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
I don't have a pic available, but look at your throttle blade. Should be the top cable. Has a little green piece over the throttle blade end of it, and it slips back into a housing that's bracketed to the plenum.
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,036
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From: Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 357ci Stealth Ram - Under Pressure
Transmission: Built 700r4/Pro Yank 3400 Extreme
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.27
I raced anything that wanted to race in the Sunbird.
Man that car was ugly.
I sold it and now I bought a......
4th gen :P
Paid $5,000 canadian. 1997 Camaro 3.8l red. (200hp) 5 speed.
I don't race it though. It has 375,000km and is still running good. They are mostly highway km's. SHE drove h/w 5 hours there and back 2-3 times a week.
Saving for a used low km 3.8 block.
Anyways,
Did you get your car to shift right skate?
Man that car was ugly.
I sold it and now I bought a......
4th gen :P
Paid $5,000 canadian. 1997 Camaro 3.8l red. (200hp) 5 speed.
I don't race it though. It has 375,000km and is still running good. They are mostly highway km's. SHE drove h/w 5 hours there and back 2-3 times a week.
Saving for a used low km 3.8 block.
Anyways,
Did you get your car to shift right skate?
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 158
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From: Wa
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 2.8 (the cruiser)
Transmission: 700R4 (TransGo Kit, VetteServo)
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Hm, I would check out this link. TomP's tune-up information. Also, my 89 when I punch the pedal when going 20 does kick down to 1st and will hold there till about mid 5k or so. I would definetly check out this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=162251
Also, do a search on how to adjust the detent cable. Me, I usually have someone push the gas pedal as far down as they can, while I depress the little **** and push the slider all the way that it will go. Seems to work well that way on my car. Yet, there are more detailed instructions somewhere around here.
-Dan
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=162251
Also, do a search on how to adjust the detent cable. Me, I usually have someone push the gas pedal as far down as they can, while I depress the little **** and push the slider all the way that it will go. Seems to work well that way on my car. Yet, there are more detailed instructions somewhere around here.
-Dan
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
The link is in thirdgen.org's tech section : https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/
The exact link to the procedure is: https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/detent.shtml
One bummer, SkatePunk, is that your car's an '85. The early 700r4's (first run 83-84, second run 85-86) suffered problems that were fixed later- most of which being fixed in 1987. So this might be a sign of a dying transmission. Before you adjust the TV cable ("detent" cable, but not really a detent cable
), take a bottle of white out. Using Scoob's diagram of how to adjust the TV cable, before you do anything, mark where the slider "D" goes into the adjuster "C". I put the whiteout right where the two meet. Let the whiteout dry.
Why do this? Well, say your TV cable has been way out of whack for 5 years. This means the trans has been slowly hurting itself for 5 years. It might be used to running with lower line pressure. (The cable tends to slide towards the front of the car which lowers the line (fluid) pressure.) Say you fix the TV cable and put it back to where it's supposed to be. The trans might be so shot that it can't handle the increased (proper) line pressure, and you might get a trans that acts crazy! (Won't upshift correctly, downshifts funny)
So by marking your "current" position with whiteout, this lets you come back to your house, and re-adjust the cable to it's original spot.
Don't let this scare you from trying it though. You might just be a little off. As long as you mark that position with white out, you'll be fine. I worked on a friend's Monte Carlo, '86, with the 200-4R, and his TV cable was out of whack by almost an inch. Needless to say, his trans was shot (could tell anyway by the dirty/gritty/brown trans fluid), we had to put the cable back to its original spot. The ride was horrible. I was praying that I didn't cook his trans!
When we put it back, the car acted normal again- as normal as it could. That car was a piece of crap.. poor thing.
Do a <a href="search.php?s="><img src="images/top_search.gif" alt="Search" border="0"></a> , for a name, type in "transfixleo", and for a forum, choose the "Transmission and Drivetrain" forum. You'll find the procedure that Dan uses, written up many times by transfixleo.
The exact link to the procedure is: https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/detent.shtml
One bummer, SkatePunk, is that your car's an '85. The early 700r4's (first run 83-84, second run 85-86) suffered problems that were fixed later- most of which being fixed in 1987. So this might be a sign of a dying transmission. Before you adjust the TV cable ("detent" cable, but not really a detent cable
), take a bottle of white out. Using Scoob's diagram of how to adjust the TV cable, before you do anything, mark where the slider "D" goes into the adjuster "C". I put the whiteout right where the two meet. Let the whiteout dry.Why do this? Well, say your TV cable has been way out of whack for 5 years. This means the trans has been slowly hurting itself for 5 years. It might be used to running with lower line pressure. (The cable tends to slide towards the front of the car which lowers the line (fluid) pressure.) Say you fix the TV cable and put it back to where it's supposed to be. The trans might be so shot that it can't handle the increased (proper) line pressure, and you might get a trans that acts crazy! (Won't upshift correctly, downshifts funny)
So by marking your "current" position with whiteout, this lets you come back to your house, and re-adjust the cable to it's original spot.
Don't let this scare you from trying it though. You might just be a little off. As long as you mark that position with white out, you'll be fine. I worked on a friend's Monte Carlo, '86, with the 200-4R, and his TV cable was out of whack by almost an inch. Needless to say, his trans was shot (could tell anyway by the dirty/gritty/brown trans fluid), we had to put the cable back to its original spot. The ride was horrible. I was praying that I didn't cook his trans!
When we put it back, the car acted normal again- as normal as it could. That car was a piece of crap.. poor thing.Do a <a href="search.php?s="><img src="images/top_search.gif" alt="Search" border="0"></a> , for a name, type in "transfixleo", and for a forum, choose the "Transmission and Drivetrain" forum. You'll find the procedure that Dan uses, written up many times by transfixleo.
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 0
From: Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 357ci Stealth Ram - Under Pressure
Transmission: Built 700r4/Pro Yank 3400 Extreme
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.27
anyone notice how old this thread is?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Let's blame Mike...he started it!
He couldn't let me have the last word on a post...
He couldn't let me have the last word on a post...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 977
Likes: 0
From: Smithfield RI
Car: Hardtop 84' z/95' Cheyenne
Engine: 305 H.O./4.3L
Transmission: 5-speed manual/Auto
Wow this is old, and yeah the problem was fixed by adjusting the tv cable. Shifts fine now.
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