Problems
Problems
Ok my 3.1's computer wasnt sending power to the fuel pump, ok, I solved that problem by manually sending power to it via a toggo switch. Once I get it started its all good, except it hasent learned idle yet. But my problem is when it starts up, it wont just crank and start like normal, I have to pump the gas to get her fired up, and ideas about fixing this. Someone said before it might be hy oil pressure switch, where is that located?
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: UCIrvine or SFV, CA
Car: 1999 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LS1 - 346 ci
Transmission: 4L60E
Its above the oil filter, on the housing. Pull the wire off of it and see if it's coated in oil. If it is, then yes, its dead. Head to Autozone and pick up one for $25 or so. Replace it (might as well change your oil & filter cause that's the easiest way to remove it, from the bottom) and you should be good.
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,128
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From: UCIrvine or SFV, CA
Car: 1999 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LS1 - 346 ci
Transmission: 4L60E
Yes, it's the same one, go to Autozone and ask for a new Oil Pressure Switch/Sensor and that will take care of your gauge and your FP switch (they combined them in I think 1987 & later cars)
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
Whoever told you the oil pressure switch could cause your car to be a pain to start is wrong. Very wrong. It's a backup circuit in case your fuel pump relay fails, not a kill switch.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Have you checked your fuel pressure at all? Maybe you've got a leaky injector or two....so to start it like you said you have to give it pedal so it can try to burn off the excess.... Like in a carbed car, how if it floods out, you're supposed to start it with the gas pedal down to clear it out.
Not sure what proper fuel pressure is...but it should be one reading when the fuel pump is priming..when the pump has finished priming, the reading should vary. Not sure about yours since your pump is on a switch...I'd flip the switch and flip it back off after about 2 seconds or so and check pressure. Usually the non-priming pressure is, maybe, 5 psi lower than priming pressure. Also, the pressure shouldn't start to fall off very soon. If pressure starts falling off, that means there's a leak in the system somewhere, and could very well be leaky injectors like I mentioned.
Not sure what proper fuel pressure is...but it should be one reading when the fuel pump is priming..when the pump has finished priming, the reading should vary. Not sure about yours since your pump is on a switch...I'd flip the switch and flip it back off after about 2 seconds or so and check pressure. Usually the non-priming pressure is, maybe, 5 psi lower than priming pressure. Also, the pressure shouldn't start to fall off very soon. If pressure starts falling off, that means there's a leak in the system somewhere, and could very well be leaky injectors like I mentioned.
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From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
don't forget to check your cold start injector, it is located on the back of the manifold. if it is not hooked up correctly, you will have to pump gas to start the car.
doesn't the fuel pump get turned on from a signal in the ignition switch?
doesn't the fuel pump get turned on from a signal in the ignition switch?
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
3.1's don't have a cold start injector...they did away with it.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by mw66nova
don't forget to check your cold start injector, it is located on the back of the manifold. if it is not hooked up correctly, you will have to pump gas to start the car.
doesn't the fuel pump get turned on from a signal in the ignition switch?
don't forget to check your cold start injector, it is located on the back of the manifold. if it is not hooked up correctly, you will have to pump gas to start the car.
doesn't the fuel pump get turned on from a signal in the ignition switch?
You can verify this yourself; key off, unplug the fuel pump relay. Start the car- it'll take more cranking then usual, but it'll eventually start, as soon as oil pressure builds up.
Or, on 2.8's that didn't use the combination "single" oil pressure switch, just unplug the pump switch (two pin sensor at the oil filter), start the car, and go for a ride. if your fuel pump relay is okay, your engine will run great.
It wont work for me since my computer will not turn on the pump, and I even checked my relay, and the wire coming from the computer to the fuel pump relay.
Ok so the computer turns on the fuel pump by the egnition, so what would I all need to check for this?
Also my egnition cyl. is all messed up, because you have to jiggle it sometimes to get the key to turn.
Ok so the computer turns on the fuel pump by the egnition, so what would I all need to check for this?
Also my egnition cyl. is all messed up, because you have to jiggle it sometimes to get the key to turn.
You should have 12V all the time on the Orange wire at the fuel pump relay.
You should have 12V for 2 seconds when the key in turned to ON at the Dark Green/White wire at the fuel pump relay.
Start with these checks and pinpoint the problem. If you do have these voltages then you might have a problem on the ground side....or a bad PCM.
And just for kicks you can swap the relay with the A/C relay (they're the same) and see what happens.
You should have 12V for 2 seconds when the key in turned to ON at the Dark Green/White wire at the fuel pump relay.
Start with these checks and pinpoint the problem. If you do have these voltages then you might have a problem on the ground side....or a bad PCM.
And just for kicks you can swap the relay with the A/C relay (they're the same) and see what happens.
Stupid question, but did you check for power at the fuel pump connector at the rear of the car? You might just have a bad fuel pump. Sometimes they can take a while to build pressure when they're bad.
The relay is grounded through the PCM and a body ground. Just follow the Black/White wire coming from the relay.
The relay is grounded through the PCM and a body ground. Just follow the Black/White wire coming from the relay.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by PeNZ
It wont work for me since my computer will not turn on the pump, and I even checked my relay, and the wire coming from the computer to the fuel pump relay.
It wont work for me since my computer will not turn on the pump, and I even checked my relay, and the wire coming from the computer to the fuel pump relay.
So it looks like both of those circuits are shot... ouch.
Yes the fuel pump is fine, because I can drive the car.
And when the car took a crap, I tried cranking and cranking on it, so that oil circut must be fried too, tomorrow im going to start checking the grounds, to see if maybe one of those are messed up.
Thanks guys, ill let you know what I come up with tomorrow
And when the car took a crap, I tried cranking and cranking on it, so that oil circut must be fried too, tomorrow im going to start checking the grounds, to see if maybe one of those are messed up.
Thanks guys, ill let you know what I come up with tomorrow
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