What's involved with switching to new distributer? Can I just take out the old one compare it with a new one drop it in then set the timing? Would it make my take offs quicker? Thanks in advance.

 

Changing to a new distributor will not give you a faster launch, the only reason you should change it is if it's bad. To change it: Mark the distributor rotor location, then loosen the hold down bolt at the distributor base, move the clamp out of the way, and pull it out. Install the new one the same way you pulled it out, making sure the rotor is aligned the same way as the old one, tighten down the hold down bolt and you should be good to go.

 

Shouldn't you mark something else on the distributor so you slide it back in the same so the timing isn't out of whack? Or will it only engage in there facing the direction it originally was?

 

Yep! Since the distributor gear's teeth are cut at an angle, the rotor will move as you lift the distributor out.

1st mark: Right before you lift the distributor out. Make a mark on the DISTRIBUTOR body that corresponds with the direction that the rotor's pointing.

2nd mark: Slowly lift the distributor up & out. The rotor will rotate. When the rotor stops spinning, make a mark on the distributor's body for the rotor's new direction. The marks will be around a 1/2 inch apart.

When you drop the distributor back in, you aim the rotor to the second mark and drop it in. When the distributor seats all the way, the rotor will rotate and point to the first mark.

 

Ol' reliable comes thru again, what happens if you get it wrong?

 

The engine will either run horribly, or not at all... I'm not sure the extent of damage that can be done if the reinstall is done that out of whack...

 

Jeez people. Even after that, I'd HIGHLY recommend using a timing light to reset your initial timing.

TomP's method will work... using a timing light will let you bump your timing to 12-14º or so :lala:

 

I already knew about doing your timing and for some reason my car runs faster stronger and smoother at 10-12

 

What have people discovered is the best setting for the timing? I've got mine set at 12° (or so, because it's not exactly steady).

 

On a V6, I'd guess right about 12 is perfect...will allow you to run cheap gas and still get good response out of it. Anything more and you'll need to start running premium. I wouldnt run over 14 except for track use...and I doubt going over 14 at the track would even help you..would probably suck too much off of your top end and actually drop your trap speed.
For reference, I run only 13 degrees on my 302 and feed it 93 octane because on 87 and 89 it runs "funny".

 

BTW, if it's not steady, replace your timing chain and gear set. Cloyes makes a double-roller set for right around $100...suckers will last forever. If your chain has enough flex to actually cause your timing mark to jump, then you will probably see a BIG improvement in idle and engine operation quality, performance, and definitely throttle response with a new set. Timing chain slack allows the crankshaft and camshaft to become out of sync with eachother...meaning your valves aren't opening and closing at the right times until your rpms go up enough that the chain straightens itself out. You probably have a rough idle with some slight misfiring or backfiring, and hesitation until maybe 3000 rpms or so right?

 

Holy s#$%! Have you been driving my car? I wouldn't have thought that would be a problem because the engine was rebuilt just before I bought it and I've only put 35,000km on it. Is there a way to check it without taking the front of the engine off? Also, you say backfiring. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I get backfiring most of the time when I shift (and only when I shift), which makes sense because the chain is all tight and then I let the load off and that probably introduces slack. BTW thanks for the tip.

 

Mayyyyybe. J/k... I just said what I guessed would happen with timing chain slack. Backfiring at shifting, with the chain like it is, I'd guess that to be normal in its current state. KED told me this way to check the chain.. Take your distributor cap off. Get a ratchet on the crankshaft and slowly turn it. Watch the rotor. As SOON as you start turning the crankshaft, the rotor should turn too. Any movement of the crankshaft BEFORE the rotor begins to turn is play in the timing chain. If it's only had 35,000 km put on it after a rebuild, I doubt the chain has been changed at all from original. Normally it takes well over 100,000 miles to get that kind of stretch out of a chain.