And i am about to pop a vein in my neck!
Someone told me that maybe i need a new Ignition Module , because the car will stall , but after a few hours , i can crank it and it starts again without a problem.
But its got to the point that if a make a quick turn on a curve , or whenever theres a quick drop of speed , it stalls...
Can anyone help?
Thanks.

 

Welcome to the boards. You've picked the right place to come .
We would be better able to help you out if you could give us some details on your car (2.8, 3.1, auto, stick, carb, etc.). When was the last time your car had a tuneup? Do you notice anything correlating with the stalling problem other than after fast deceleration?

Do you have to wait extended periods of time all the time before it restarts?

Ignition modules are usually all or none, there isn't really a middle area with those, if it's bad, the car won't run period.
Don't forget to use the search feature too, you can usually find a lot of good info for what you are looking for.

 

Sounds to me like a fuel filter or IAC valve.

 

Fuel filter issues usually show themselves at high RPMs. I had the same symptoms years ago that dogged me for months... Turned out to be a flakey coil and that was all...

 

Btw....Kitt_Karr...... Knight Rider dork!!

As for the fuel filter...it makes sense that it'd show itself at higher rpms. My car had a bad fuel filter. Didnt have any bad upper rpm problems though, aside from generally just running like crap. But on decelerations, it'd stall. The faster the braking, the more frequently it'd stall. Taking turns sometimes too. I would've figured the IAC valve, but I replaced the fuel filter and voila. Only stalled maybe 3 times in a year after that.....all of which I believe were caused by a sticking IAC valve which I later cleaned.

 

Welcome to the board! My buddy always tells me I should make my car into Knight Rider- but Kitt wasn't no hot rod.

So when it stalls, it won't start until it's sat for a while? It does sound like the classic ignition module "death"... the module works great when cold, but fails when it heats up. When the car cools down again, the module works great.

Had that happen to me on I-95... car stalled out and wouldn't start again. Checked for spark and there was none. Luckily (?) I had a bottle of gatorade in the car, and an old rag. I'd pour the gatorade onto the rag, and then hold the rag underneath the distributor base until it got so hot that I couldn't hold the rag anymore. Then I'd wet it and do it again. After 20 minutes, I was able to get started again, and made it over the Delaware bridge and back into Jersey, and all the way home again. I rebuilt the dist the next day. I was so worried about getting stuck on that bridge...

 

sounds like carb that needs to be rebuilt, but hten, we don't know yr of car

 

Tom, that's pretty interesting. In all my experience with the modules, they never had a heat failure.... Usually they would go and that was it. No starting at all. Not trying to argue either, learn something new everyday! :hail:

 

Wow!
Thanks guys!
I will definetelly install the new ignition module on it.
By the way...
Sorry , i am new at this , so here we go:
My engine is a 2.8 v6 , its a 1987 and the trasmission is automatic , oh yeah its fuel injected , tpi .
I have also noticed that , after a while if i run a hot lead out of the positive battery terminal to the diagnostics plug(Whatever its called) under the dash i can activate the fuel pump and after a couple of tries it starts again.
Thank you all for the great info.

 

Lol..
And yeah...i am definetelly a Knight Rider dork
And i think i have the only convesion in my area , it just don't seem right that KITT should stall all the time!
Could it possibly be just the fuel filter?
Well...I will have to check this out too!

:hail:
Thanks.

 

I can't imagine running a hot line to the ALDL (the diagnostics port) is a good idea--I'm sure it's linked in with all sorts of sensitive systems...beware! Wonder if there's something wrong with the electrical connections to your fuel pump... So you're saying...when you run that hot lead, it primes and activates the fuel pump, and the car starts--so when you just turn the key forward but don't start it, the fuel pump doesnt prime?

By the way...you don't have TPI...you have MPFI. But, they're the same thing.....just TPI is the terminology used on V8's. Us sixers got "MPFI." Personally, I think ours sounds cooler.

 

Terminal G on the ALDL is the fuel pump's diagnostic connection... front wheel drive 2.8/3.1's have that connector underneath the hood, against the firewall, "tucked away" inside the wiring loom. Ours is just easier to get to.

And yeah, QTA, if you do a search on the tech board for ignition module, you'll find that it's the common problem; car dies when hot, runs great when cold, ignition module gets replaced, car is great again. Heck, even <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=162733&perpage=75&pagenumber=1">Dennine2's problem</a> was solved by a new ignition module.

 

I should learn to pay more attention. I even posted on dennine2's problem, although I never did make it back to that thread... . I wonder if a more frequent "greasing" of the module would help prevent the heat failure? When mine died on me, the car made a huge backfire, and that was the end of the story, and the first thing I inspected. It was shot completely.

Wow... I've had 2 misleading posts in the past week. I'm not an idiot, I swear! Sorry.

 

LOL, it's just there's so much info around that it gets hard to keep straight. I've had my car since '94, and you should see me trying to remember what I did upon "restoration" in 97! That seems like years ago...

I asked once on the tech board about remote-mounting the ignition module. It doesn't -have- to be in the distributor. It only takes a signal from the pickup coil. I think it'd be bitchin' to mount the module off the distributor, away from engine heat, and bolt it right to something like a strut tower- so it could use the whole tower as a heat sink. A few people answered and said it was a good idea, but apparently most of 'em had no clue what an ignition module was, because I only got a few replies, and nobody had done it yet.

Ford used to remote-mount their ignition modules... they were larger, though... it was an actual box. Then again, I'm thinking of the old points distributor on our '76 Ford LTD (351W v8, timing chain snapped at 220,000 miles, not worth it to repair). I wonder what the Ford modules looked like from 82-92 ...

 

Remote mounting the module actually wouldn't be a bad idea.... The wires would have to be lengthened to it, and it can ground right to the strut tower.... hmmm...... now you've got me thinking.
Anyone wish to partake in a remote ignition module experiment?

 

Well the late 80's and early 90's 5.0's used a "TFI module"...same thing. It's mounted on the side of the distributor...screwed in. It's a few inches long, about 1 inch tall......

 

TFI? What's that stand for? So Ford started putting them back on the distributor, I guess the remote-mounted ones were from really old Fords. When they'd fail (same way ours would, too much heat), guys would pour water over them so they could get home.

 

maybe it means Timing For Ignition lol... I wonder if there's a way you could mount the module maybe in a spot where it will constantly be receiving cold air from outside.... perhaps near the front bumper cover?

 

I have just finished reading the post https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...5&pagenumber=1 and i have a huge head ache , just thinking about it.
I thought i had car trouble?!
So it seems that we all agree that its in fact the ignition module , i have a brand new module that ive purchased from my local , Pep Boys for $50.00 , what a ripp off!
Oh well...i need my car , so no use crying about it.
Now my next question would be:
How do i mark the distributor , so i dont messup the timming?
Thanks , Oh GODS Of The F BODYS!
:hail:

 

You don't have to mark the distributor to change the ignition module. Just remove the cap and rotor (the rotor goes on only one way, so you can't put it on in a wrong position), and there should be two 5.5 mm hex head screws on the module. Remove those, and then remove the harnesses plugging in to the module. Clean the area on the distributor where the module sits, then apply dielectric grease to the new module, and put it all back together. Be sure you press the rotor on all the way, it can lead to problems if you don't. Presto! you should be good to go!

 

Did you get an AC Delco or a Borg Warner module?

QTA's right, if you were changing the pickup coil ($12) at the same time, then you'd have to yank the dist.

 

Don't ask me what it stands for..I have NO idea! All I know is it's the same damn thing as an ICM. I made a post on a Mustang site asking about aftermarket ICM's and I got ONE reply, which stated "What the hell is an ICM?"