Jut thought I'd put it out there.

Another alternative to the spinning or jiggleing the pushrod to get to 0 lash is to jiggle the rocker arm itself, which seems to be working best for me.

It also seems that the best time to do the valve lash is after the intake manifold gaskets are on the block, but the intake manifold isn't on the car yet (you can still see lifters) then you can actually SEE when each lifter is on the base circle. Unless I'm wrong, in which case I would hope somebody tells me before tomorrow morning.

 

They will still make noise that way.
The lifter is not preloaded (which takes up extra slack as heat expands the valve train system).
You idea is very close. Take it further.
After ya do as ya have, go back & see if the pushrods rotate.
IF they do, tighten slightly more.
Warning, DON'T push down on rocker as ya tighten.
Gives a false reading.
TRY to avoid that happening.
On my Blazer I need retighten a bit more. I made it not tight enough & I can hear it. Bummer for me!
WISH I had spare set of valve covers to cut apart to adjust valves like on SBChevy. Do it while engine runs & is warmed up. Access to valve cover nuts prevents that easy solution.

 

Karl, you just gave me a great tip- I have never seen anyone cut the tops off of old valvecovers to control oil flow while adjusting (I have always used oil retainer clips)- since the clips don't work on a running 60*v6- then you tip is the hot ticket- Thank you sir

Dean

 

YET GOTTA REALIZE
I ONLY say this alternative for my CARB set up on Blazer.
ON THE MPFI
ya have to reassemble the middle & top intake to ignite engine.
AND one can only remove the valve covers for a MPFI by removing the middle & top intakes.
AND on my Blazer, valve cover bolts are just as difficult to access (love those bolts by back by firewall).

On my Blazer, I would need use good valve covers (to cut up), for which I have a spare pair, but I loose good gaskets for best oil control.

The 60* mills have their good/bad points.
Valve adjustment is one of the bad points.
Changing intakes which require push rod removal one of the bad points.

Yeah, if ya got time & proper tool to slice section outta middle of valve cover.....

G0d loves a Small Block Chevy!
4 simple accessed bolts, valve cover off.

 

I change the valve cover studs years ago to plain ol' simple allen head screws- I can pull my covers off WITHOUT removing the MPFI. After the first go round years back, I fixed it so I never have to go through that MPFI remove, cover remove, MPFI replace, run to set lifters, remove MPFI again, Replace valve covers, replace MPFI again B.S.

I'll be installing my Fiero covers someday soon-(When I get free time to mess with it and all other projects can standby) then I can strategically cut the old covers for use in "run adjustments".

 

What's the point of adjusting hydraulic lifters when the motor's running? GM book says to adjust them with the engine off, to set the preload. Any benefit to adjusting them with the engine running? Or is it just a fall-back to the old way with solid lifters?

 

Its just more fool proof on a worn engine with weaker or worn hydraulic lifters. When the motor is running of course, the lifters are full of oil and can be set to their existing varied pressures.

 

To my knowledge, one never set/adjusted solid lifters with engine running.
One set them cold with feeler gauges.

 

MPFI V6:

Today, I'm adjusting the valves in my FWD vehicle, without valve covers, alternator & serpentine belt for having access to the nuts on the firewall side.

Two problems with this: 1) I'm doing the nut adjustment step by step (run engine, hot, only 1 nut adj, shut off the engine for avoid overheating... and again). 2) I can't hear the tick, tick overlash sound.

Does anybody of you know about some tool in order to hear better the valve sound?


Thans,

Denis V.