I have the edelbrock 4bbl setup for my 2.8 and a brand new holley 390cfm to go with it. I started to take it all apart and everything went well untill i went to remove the intake, all bolts are out and i dont think the gasket is stuck.i cant get the intake out. Later that night i also discover that my thermostat housing isnt lining up two well with the holes in the intake.
Lastley im trying to remove my distributor as i have a vac advancment one i want to replace it with. I was hoping that by getting the distributor out i could also get the intake out. This is proving to be such a task i have the bolt for the hold down out and i cant get the hold down or the distributor to budge.
Any hlep on any of this is greatly appreciated as always and any one whose done this conversion please help me with your advice.

 

turn the crank a little by hand, and then pull the distributor out.

If that does work, try again, this time pull harder

use a prybar to get the intake off, mine was a pain the the butthole too.

 

You sound like me.
Mystified why such strength is required.
The intake is real easy.
Get/find best access, tap a screwdriver in there & keep working at it.
That's correct, that much force can be needed.
Distributor...
On my 211,500 Blazer..
Damn, that took two people.
Access, hold this, wack that.
Sounds exactly like you are doing this correctly.
BEFORE ya insert the vacuum distributor, rebuild it with all new stuff.
Seek out my distb. rebuild article.
Make sure you use a small block Chevy distributor gasket, also. Assures zero leakage.
Edelbrock intake raises carb height.
Only true difference between stock intake & what you've bought. Intake Versitility is a moot point.
Really, keep at it, you're doing all right.

 

I used a rubber mallet for the intake, 3 quick taps on each side and wallah, much safer.

 

I had the same problem when I did that swap a few years ago. I was starting to think that someone had welded the &*^% intake into place.

Solution: Spray a bit of Liquid Wrench along the seams. (Yeah, I know, its not sticking bolts causing it, but it seems to help with the sealant and such as well.) Wait an hour, then start tapping around the intake with a fairly firm faced rubber mallet. After a coupla minutes of that, I managed to get a bit of a gap to form. Use the widest, dullest flat blade screwdriver you have, and try to pry it up. Go slowly, don't want to gouge anything, and when you get a gap to form in another location, insert the driver there and continue. (Basically you're just trying to pry it up evenly.) Eventually you will hit the magic point where it pops free in your hands. Swear liberally, it helps.

As for the distributor hold down, again, Liquid Wrench is your friend. Don't overuse it, and try not to overspray. A sharp tap with a hammer got mine to let go. (Use a large diameter bolt to transfer the tap.)

Good luck, you're going to love that combo. It's served me well for quite awhile now.

 

hey man let me know how that intake and carb setup work out for you, if you like the performance and what not.

 

just an update to all, the intake is out and so is the distributor they were both a real pain in the *** but that steps done. now im woundering since i have its all apart if i should get the comp cam rocker arms? Any other things i could do well i have it riped apart to add some more ponies?
also i want to put the edelbrock chrome valve covers on so it has a better then stock look, but my vavle covers have my throttle and trany brackets on them, does any one know wich ones i would need to get and how to mount them?



thanks agian guys

 

You would have to chrome the factory ones for what ya want.
I know I have those on my S-10 Blazer.
I painted mine Gloss Black & left it at that.
Way cheaper!
I stripped by media blasting & lots of cans of Krylon RUST TOUGH Gloss Black.
Rockers?
Don't bother.
IF ya really want, go get a MPFI cam that's the best deal & then get accurate 1.5 rockers.
You'll gain a few that way for less money.
The carb version cam is "barely OK"
The MPFI cam is better & the 3.4 Cam the Crane 2030 is a wonderful upgrade, but should have the motor to match that cam.
Get a factory used MPFI cam & you scored well!
Check out differences between intakes & you'll see very few except carb base height.

 

im trying to redo all my vac lines and wires. Ive come to a stand still because of a mystery line. I have the power break booster line connected at the back on my manifold and on the stock manifold there was another line directly above this that when into the manifold and was all part of the same cavity in th e intake. While removing it i didnt tag it becaue the end broke and i figured weell its the only one with a jagged end it will be easy to find, now i cant even find any lines that size . does anyone know what line connects here, someone told me ac could that be???? what ever it is it seems important.

 

Yes I believe it is for AC.
Mine is disconnected, also right now.
IF CORRECT, that hose controls the "up & down of AC venting into cockpit" when accelerating.
Make sense?
Since I'm not done with my swap, I can't offer a pic of connection.
Try this, tho....

 

new problem has arised. I changed form the stock distributor to a vac advancment one. I cant get the distributor to go in and liine up where its supose to becaue the cant get he thing to sit flush. the vac advancemnt piece seems to bump the intake base not alowing it to sit all the way in, it is matching with the cam gear so its not that prob . This setuo has been done befor becaue this is how they run them in the blazers when this intake is done, so how do they do it? can you do a distributor shim, ??? what can i do?

 

Look down inside the hole where the dist shaft goes- you will see the top of the oil pump gear (looks like a large flathead screwdriver) this needs to be turned to the proper position of the bottom of the distributor shaft itself. Otherwise the distributer will not go in the last 1/2" or so.

This is a common problem when you either 1) buy a new or different distributor (base gears are not all aligned the same), or 2) you move the crankshaft assembly or drain the oil after pulling the distributor out.

Its an easy fix by just spinning the pump gear in the shaft hole little by little til it aligns. A specialty tool is also actually sold for this purpose and for priming the motor before firing(on a new motor)

Edit: this is one of those rookie mistakes that WE ALL HAVE MADE at one time and never forget- its called a learning experience

 

Agood2.8, Have you been working on SBCs lately? It's actually a hex for the 60*V6.

 

Yeh crap, I forget the minor details on these little motors. Other three cares are smallblocks.

 

Other option is...
Use the rotor in the distributor.
Remove distb cap..
Insert distb into intake....
Rotate rotor until ya feel it grab/connect the oil pump and then rotate to be able to seat the distb on the intake.
End result is the rotor tip has to be pointed toward #1 and the vacuum canister has to be pointed at the #3 cylinder.
That should be the "just right" spot for starting.
Hoping for no oil leaks for ya!

 

If you want to spin the oil pump drive, you can do so with a socket. I'm -thinking- it's a 9mm, but don't quote me on that. Put the socket on a medium length extension, like a 7 inch or 8 inch. You want to be able to spin this with a drill, so...

Get a wooden dowel and a file. Cut an inch long piece off the dowel. File one end into a 3/8" square, to fit into the end of the extension. Then clamp the other end of the dowel into the drill, and now you can spin the oil pump.

If you have an old 3/8" extension lying around, you could also just cut the "female" end off of it, and use it directly in a drill.

 

If you do use a socket, make sure you tape the socket to the extension, many a socket has been lost in an engine this way. I can't think of the size off hand either, But I'm thinking more along the lines of 3/8", I know it's the same as the Big Block Ford, since my priming tool is an old distributer shaft from a BBF.

 

I forgot
The shaft for this application (our V6 60*) is a six sided metal shaft that fits into the oil pump & the distb end.
Nothing really fits that well.
Best is to make sure you seat the shaft into oil pump, then connect shaft to distb base & give a few twists using the rotor to move the pump to be able to seat distributor.
Damn, a Ford, yep that's right, too!