hey, i havnt posted in the last couple of months, but ive been so busy with school (and i bought a truck, no longer having a transpotation problem, i let the Fbody sit till i had some time) well, she's ready to go, but it just wont turn over, it will crank and crank and nothing, ive got a new fuel pump, new starter, and im not getting any codes, just wondering if i could get a few idea's cuz this thanksgiving break im gonna get her back into decent running condition, hopeing for some serious work this coming summer! thanks,

 

are you getting any spark?
what is the fuel pressure?

 

I'll 2nd spark.

Possibly injectors/regulator.

 

a fantastic white spark, couldnt tell you the pressure, i don't have the equipment for that, but i can tell you that it does have some kind of a voltage drain, (i will charge the battery to full, it's a new battery, and in the morning w/o touching the car, and it's dead as a doornail)

 

get your alt checked. diode might be fried.

edit: if fp isn't igh enough, it wont fire up.

 

okok, alt is new too.... uh, somebody said somthing about the Regulater, im pretty sure i know what that is but you think you could jog my memory? would that cause the low pressure?

 

the injector regulator controls how much fuel pressure you have. Its the black thing on the fuel rail.

If you have a voltage drain, thats it.

Could be Alt (even if its new)
starter
radio
lights
any wires crossed in the system. Start pulling fuses at night to see where the drain it is.

 

how do i check the regulator? i think that might be a possibility...

 

Regulator is vacuum fed, has no electrical connections. That's not your drain problem.

 

ah, but it might be why the car wont start if it's no good, i think that even with the drain, it would still start when the battery is fully charged

 

try getting some ether/starting fluid....comes in a spray can....read the directions carefully.....and use it as directed.....this stuff can be dangerous.....:nono:

even without enough fuel pressure.....this might get the engine started......but it might die shortly after........

but you should definately check wires like dale said......but.....also like you said.....with a brand new battery it should turnover.......

unless you are just charging a battery with a bad cell..... have your battery checked out.......

then get a new one.....or a good one......and try again to start it....with the good battery....good luck......

 

make sure no fuses are blown, esp. ECM & injector fuses, check fuel pressure, check timing chain

 

ill give all that stuff a go the next time i'm home, is there a specific way to check the fuel pressure regulater? is that somthing worth pursuing?

 

starting fluid is a good place to start, it will atleast tell you if the engine is getting enough spark. It should try and start/ spit and pop. If that is all it does with starting fluid, it has to be fuel related.

If no suts or pops with starting fluid, its spark related.

I have never found a car battery that liked to sit. Even for a little while, it can drain a battery down to a point where it wont recharge or start the car.

 

Did you check you cap and rotor.. Last week. My car wouldn't start and I was still getting spark. The cap and rotor were only about a month old... I checked it and they were shot... As for the battery I'm not sure.. Could be you voltage regulator. Or just a bad battery...

 

To check the regulator, you need a fuel pressure guage. That'll also tell you the running pressure. Once you have the guage hooked up to the schrader valve on the back of the fuel rail, you try to start the engine, with the key on, you should score about 40PSI. When you crank the engine, you should see pressure drops at an even cycle if the injectors are firing. You will also need a vacuum pump. Hook that up to the line that goes to the regulator. Pull a vacuum on it and see if it holds for any length of time. That'll tell you if the diaphram went bad. if your pressure goes up at the same time(have to get the fuel pump running, I think you can do it by jumping a couple of connectors on the ALDL connector, I think it's the bottom row, the two all teh way to the left).

 

to run the fuel pump using the ALDL, you will need to put 12 volts to pin "G" (bottom left corner of ALDL) and ground.

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!

 

On a 2nd gen once I had just done a 100+mph 20 mile run home and back to help take down a rotten tree. Sucker wouldnt move so I used the 2nd gen to push it over. got it almost all the way over and the car died. took forever but the rotor has worked lose and came off in the cap. Not sure if it was the speed or load of pushing a tree over but it just pop off.

Matt

 

Any ground or the A slot ground in the ALDL???

[F][E][D][C][B][A]
[G][H][J][K][L][M]

 

A slot should work since it's a ground. All terminal G does is activate the fuel pump relay.

 

You can ground it to the car frame or slot "A". Not all slots are grounds.

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

? about the regulator would the regulator cause a flooding situation if it goes bad?

 

it could...if it got stuck in the wide open poosition. I would say that 99.99999% of the time the regulator goes bad because the lttle rubber diaphram inside doesn't hold a vacuum anymore, meaning that it would immediatly go to the "closed" position, which is where it's at at idle. To see if you are truly flooding, pull the plugs, if they are wet, then you know that you are running WAY rich.