Need help...
I changed the plugs, oil, wires, and distributor cap on my 86 V6 'bird and it is still having a problem starting. It will turn over for a long time before finally catching. Then it sputters and finally starts runnnig properly. Any ideas? the car has 228,000 k. Is there some way to test the distributor?

 

well after changing all that did you check the timing?

12-13* works best with the higher mileage cars.

 

no

 

well then you have something to do then...

 

Is there an easy way to do it without timing light?

 

the easiest way to do it is with a light but since you did say without one...advance the timing until it starts to spark knock when you rev the engine, then back it off just a tad. should be pretty close there.

 

Remove the CTS. If it starts okay, then thats your problem.

Also always use a timing light (~$30). Because If you adjust your timing and it knocks, then you back it off, you are still setting your timing WAY too advanced.

Cars usually advance timing several degrees when you're driving. So if your timing is advanced (before it knocks), your engine will knock when you drive.

So, use a timing light, adjust to factory specs, then advance it 2* (no more). I noticed a tad more torque at the lower and upper end.

Akshay

 

What Akshay said. Also, if you do advance the timing more than stock, after month or two, pull the plugs and check to see if you have that lean look on them, just to double check. Or run slightly higher octane if they have it.

-Dan

 

Sorry but whats a CTS?

 

you can get a timing liight from zone for like 20 bux. If nothing else, it may be one of their loaner tools. drop 20-25, use it for a day, take it back, get your cash back.

 

This sounds like your fuel pump relay is bad. What is happening is that the cranking finally builds oil pressure which trips the fuel pump relay override switch. The pump then comes on and the engine starts.

Try this, in a quiet area turn the key to the run position (don't crank) and listen for a buzz/hum from the rear of the vehicle. Should be able to hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds then stop. To listen again turn the key off for ten seconds before keying on again.

No sound then the fuel pump isn't running. Fuel pump relay is one of the ones under hood, drivers side, between fender and brake booster on firewall. I don't know which one though.

RBob.

 

I turned the ignition switch to the on postion (but not cranking) and listened for the fuel pump. It does make a buzzing sound for a couple of seconds and then stops. Could the problem have to do with the fuel filter?

 

CTS=Coolant Temp. Sensor. Does your car start instantly when the engine is cold, but has trouble starting when your engine is warm? If so, then it's the CTS. TomP helped me out with this one. :hail:

If the problem is the fuel filter, then the car would stall while you're driving. I had this problem a while back.

Keep us posting.

Akshay

 

it has trouble starting when cold. after it's been driving for a while and i turn it off, it will usually start up right away. It's when it's been sitting for a while that it takes forever to start. I have also found that pumping the gas pedal (only once) helps it start quicker. What about the fuel pressure regulator?

 

Well OK, if you can turn the key to on and the pump primes. will it start right up?

Only reason you would need to crank it over n over is to build oil pressure and prime the pump.

Turning the key to on is priming the pump as you say, it should fire right up. If not. The pump must be weak.

 

If this engine is still using the cold start injector (CSI) setup I would check that. IIRC it is a separate circuit from the ECM and uses a temperature switch to enable/disable the CSI.

Gotcha' on the fuel pump prime, that sounds good (it's working correctly).

RBob.

 

You'll need to do some troubleshooting. Remove the cold start injector and have the cold start injector check or cleaned. If injector is okay, check your fuel pressure w/ a gauge.

I've never had a problem w/ the fuel regulator (191,000miles on my car w/ orig. motor).

Akshay

 

I have an 89 and was wondering if the 87 has the EST wire (electronic spark timing or advance, something) Did I get the name of that right. If you have that be sure to disconnect it, start the car, adjust timing, shut off and then reconnect the wire. it's a lone brown wire with a white connector (i think that's the colors) by the rear passenger side area of the fenderwell.

I had the temp sensor go bad once. I was getting a code too, but since i hadn't found this site yet, I didn't know how to check the code myself so i took it in to get diagnosed. They said it was the temp sensor and replaced it.

The problem I had though was hard starting when cold. I had to pump the throttle and give it gas while it warmed up because there basically was no choke. The fan was also running constantly. Once it was warm it started and ran fine, but the fan was still on. I think the computer was being told the engine was hot all the time.

 

you are right on, the EST, you will need to disconnect it when setting timing. if not, the computer will auto adjust and you will get all buggered up.

Well these cars have a type of choke, its called the Idle air control valve.

You may want to take it out and clean it's port, and the unit itself, the EGR gets everything dditry in the intake.

If your fans are coming on with the engine cold, then you do have a prob, you have a temp sensor that is failing, or a bad chip.

The fans are only controled by the ECM, or direct line to a temp sensor. If it's the spare fan turning on, it's the secondary temp sensor. If it's the primary fan, it could be faulty primary sensor to the ECM, or a bad chip/ECM.

 

Tell him to check his fuel pressure. I am willing to bet that it's his fuel pressure regulator that is taking a dump.

Thanks,
Jim