I want to check to my ignition system to make sure it's all running good. What do I need to look for or what do i need to buy to check it all out? Eg. check cap/rotor, spark plugs, etc, what else should i look for?

 

Not much you can do with out an oscilliscope.

-Check the porcelain on all the plugs for carbon tracking. It looks like lightning....you can't rub it off.
-Ohm check all the plug wires. Spec is around 3000 Ohms/foot.
-Check the rotor and cap for carbon tracking.
-Grab the rotor and move it side to side. It should have a little bit of play but not much. If it feels excessive, you need to rebuild the dist. with a new mainshaft.
-Try to move the magnet on the mainshaft. If it moves independantly of the mainshaft, then it's bad.
-If you have a timing light, check base timing and back-up advance timing. To check the back-up, disconnect the EST and watch the timing mark as you slowly bring the rpms up to around 2000 rpm. Timing should advance ~10 degrees and hold, not bounce around. AFTERMARKET DISTRIBUTORS are notorious for not having the back-up timing work properly. It's not a big deal but it could slightly affect gas mileage.

 

considering the cost of most of the parts involved it's usually quicker to replace and skip any testing. only thing you might want to test instead of replacing is the module and if it's working it's working and testing it would be foolish. don't you know if your car is running good or not? if you don't have a problem trouble shooting is sort of stupid.

 

You can awalys buy one of these. I scored one brand new on ebay for 15 dollars.

http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_st...0.htm&cart_id=

 

If your car starts, your ignition works well.
Can ya improve it is what you seem to be seeking.
Distributor rebuild is really mandatory.
Coil upgrade is a great quick replace option.
Plug wires, also a great idea.
The hard part?
Replacing timing chain!
Do these steps/stages and you will be rewarded with better fuel milage, smoother idle, lower auto emissions, quicker acceleration, too.

 

Its still fun to buy toys that you only use one time tho like the tester i got. I even picked up a sensor tester for 5 bucks. The guy had a TON of actron stuff and i got everything from vacume guages compression testor the peake kv meater dwell meater timing gun. Total i spent like 50 bucks. And its not like the guy was only selling 1 item he was selling around 30 of each.

 

yeah, what the F$%k was gm thinking when they put all those f'd up star bolts and crap all over the place, and HUGE ones on the water pump. to **** us off???? -Colt

 

Star bolts are great for assembly line work.
You've got an 1973 Opel GT!!!!!!!!

 

I've always preferred running into torx fasteners vs. phillips, standard, or allen.. never stripped a torx.. and a $8 set of bits from Checker not only covers every torx bit on the car, but it's a security torx set which allows me to access telco equipment too

 

So what all is involved in a distributor rebuild? Is up and down play on the distributor shaft an indication of a need for a rebuild? What if the pick-up coil or pole pieces (whatever that gizmo under the rotor is) is all rusty and corroded but the car still runs??

 

Score a new one on ebay for 10 bucks

 

A new what? pick-up coil? What about the up and down play?

 

I wrote a thread about distributor rebuilding.
In my distb rebuild, there isn't to be any up down play, as I "recall".
My internal parts were "rusty". I took sand paper to the stuff & worked it better.
Haven't touched the distributor since that thread way back about 3-4 years now.
I'd go grab a used one from eaby ($10!) or search in yards for a very good core to rebuild.

 

how do you correct that "play" with a rebuild though? Can you get a new shaft or something that stops that play??

 

It was the whole distributor with the ICM pick up coil cap rotor etc. Before i got it i was not sure if it was new like i was told but it was. oh BTW it was a GM one.

 

You are asking me to really go on memory here!
I do recall a slight amount of vertical play.
YET when ya separete the shaft from housing, there is no slop or shims. Just the roll pin to be knocked out.
Give a try to find one at a yard or go for an over the counter rebuild.
CHECK THAT PARTS COUNTER ONE FOR ANY PLAY!
I rebuilt mine like over 4 years ago, sorry can't offer much more!

 

The one i have has ever so slightly end play barley noticeable. I think new they run 150 at autozone.