I want to dress up........the car that is.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L
Transmission: Auto
I want to dress up........the car that is.
Some of you might recall that I recently spent some $$ putting my wife's 92 3.1 Camaro RS back on the road after gathering dust in the garage for the last 3 years. I've shined her up, tinted the windows, did a bunch of needed mechanical work (only 70,000 original miles, my wife is the original owner - still have the window sticker even!).
Anyway, here's the little extra thing I want to do: I like the twin tailpipes but I wish you could see them. I think picking up a simple pair of chrome tips at PepBoys/Kragen/AutoZone would just look stupid since they have that downward turn at the end (as seen in attached image). Short of replacing the exhaust, which is in great shape, is there any way to accomplish this? Or should I just leave well enough alone?
Anyway, here's the little extra thing I want to do: I like the twin tailpipes but I wish you could see them. I think picking up a simple pair of chrome tips at PepBoys/Kragen/AutoZone would just look stupid since they have that downward turn at the end (as seen in attached image). Short of replacing the exhaust, which is in great shape, is there any way to accomplish this? Or should I just leave well enough alone?
Last edited by Mike-in-Orange; Apr 27, 2004 at 10:09 PM.
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
It looks nice, I'll assume what looks like damage from the door to the gas lid is light through the trees
.
Id suggest you take it to a muffler shop and have them install some nice tips, bolt on parts store tips just look like crap.
. Id suggest you take it to a muffler shop and have them install some nice tips, bolt on parts store tips just look like crap.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,564
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From: Central FL
Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1...not hardly stock
Transmission: 700r4....not stock either
Axle/Gears: 3.73
if you buy some chrome tips that are like a foot long or so, you can turn the tailpipes down a little and cut them off before the bend then put your new chrome ones on. know what i mean?
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From: Vancouver, BC
Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
Originally posted by AM91Camaro_RS
if you buy some chrome tips that are like a foot long or so, you can turn the tailpipes down a little and cut them off before the bend then put your new chrome ones on. know what i mean?
if you buy some chrome tips that are like a foot long or so, you can turn the tailpipes down a little and cut them off before the bend then put your new chrome ones on. know what i mean?
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
Aye. If it can be done by bending, great.. if not, chop the output pipes off either side of the muffler, chop off the turndowns, get them at an angle where they'll make a straight shot out with room to clear nice straight tips, and reweld.
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
I did just that. I did not like how loud the exhaust sounded with the tips under the car. So I extended them out past the bumper to get the sound out from under the car. [ let the jerk behind me listen to it.]
I did just that, cut them off where they turned down so I could run the tip straight.
1st set of tips were the chrome dual split type. I had to add a short muffler adapter piece of pipe for more length. And I just used that 15 min JB weld to stick them in place. They stuck out a bit far but got all the sound out from under the car. Very quiet ride inside.
They worked well for a year or so but it seamed to project to much of the exhaust note behind me. Sounded like a turbo chicken. People could hear me a mile away.
So I then switch to a similar set of tips off an 80s gramdam grandprix something gm.
Any ways they still stick out past the bumper a tad but they have the backs cut out. So the sound is kind of equally dispersed between under the car and out the back. Give the car a more of a rumble sound than the turbo chicken sound.
http://www.viragotech.com/86bird/exhausttips.html
I did just that, cut them off where they turned down so I could run the tip straight.
1st set of tips were the chrome dual split type. I had to add a short muffler adapter piece of pipe for more length. And I just used that 15 min JB weld to stick them in place. They stuck out a bit far but got all the sound out from under the car. Very quiet ride inside.
They worked well for a year or so but it seamed to project to much of the exhaust note behind me. Sounded like a turbo chicken. People could hear me a mile away.
So I then switch to a similar set of tips off an 80s gramdam grandprix something gm.
Any ways they still stick out past the bumper a tad but they have the backs cut out. So the sound is kind of equally dispersed between under the car and out the back. Give the car a more of a rumble sound than the turbo chicken sound.
http://www.viragotech.com/86bird/exhausttips.html
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L
Transmission: Auto
Originally posted by SSC
It looks nice, I'll assume what looks like damage from the door to the gas lid is light through the trees
.
It looks nice, I'll assume what looks like damage from the door to the gas lid is light through the trees
. Gumby, that's more what I'm thinking. Well, the second pic anyway. No offense but I'm with 1986CamaroSC - I like the second pic much better. I'd opt for single tips on each side, but that's just me.
I appreciate the input guys. Looks like the way to go is have a muffler shop set something up right. Thanks!
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From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
i've got the dual tip setup going on w/ the bird, it's kinda "historical"that birds have dual tips on each side, tta (dual tips, one side) 2nd gen t/a's. I'll have to see if i can find a pic of them, the one thing that i will say is, don't do what everyone else around these parts does, and slap some 3"exhaust tips on the camaro ,taht stick out 4 inches from the bumper...instaed of cool, they're really starting to look generic.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 395
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From: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L
Transmission: Auto
Originally posted by 85f-bird
i've got the dual tip setup going on w/ the bird, it's kinda "historical"that birds have dual tips on each side, tta (dual tips, one side) 2nd gen t/a's. I'll have to see if i can find a pic of them, the one thing that i will say is, don't do what everyone else around these parts does, and slap some 3"exhaust tips on the camaro ,taht stick out 4 inches from the bumper...instaed of cool, they're really starting to look generic.
i've got the dual tip setup going on w/ the bird, it's kinda "historical"that birds have dual tips on each side, tta (dual tips, one side) 2nd gen t/a's. I'll have to see if i can find a pic of them, the one thing that i will say is, don't do what everyone else around these parts does, and slap some 3"exhaust tips on the camaro ,taht stick out 4 inches from the bumper...instaed of cool, they're really starting to look generic.
WTF? You can't use the four letter word for Uncle Ben's or Minute R*ce on this board or it automatically gets edited????
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Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah, people though that it was a racial slur, when it really wasn't, so they turned on censoring for rice. 
First you should check to see if those turned-down ends are really round. You might not be able to bolt a tip onto them.
That's how (damn I just typed this to someone, why didn't I save it?!?!) the Dynomax super turbo catback is. They angle the ends of the pipes down, cut the ends into a slash-cut, and then slightly flatten the pipe at the end so it's a slight oval. A bolt-on tip won't slide over. A weld-on tip would require the welder to un-flatten the oval.
I put Megs chrome rolled edge tips on my car. They're bolt-on's, but only fit a 2" pipe- the Dynomax has 2.5" pipes. I used a tailipipe expander (see http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=468 ) to expand the tip's end to 2.5". Then I spun my bench vise shut, slid the tip's end over the jaws, and opened the vise to spread the tip's end to about 2.75".
Then I used a band clamp (see http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=WLK%2D33240 ) to attach the tip to the tailpipe. The clamp crushed the tip's end back to 2.5 so the tip wound up "wedged" in there.
I was able to cut the tailpipes with the pipes off of the car. But since yours are on there (and will be Held on there with years of corrosion), it might be hard to get a hacksaw in there, and it might be hard to get a decent straight cut. So... you can pick up this tool: http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=454 It works great, and you can get a nice straight cut. (Off topic- how the HELL is that also a strut cut-off tool? A strut would explode!)
Now.. if you've got the room, you might be able to loosen up the tailpipes. This would be similar to replacing a catalytic convertor. You'll need to cut the muffler outlet flanges parallel to the pipe. Crap, I should draw a pic of this. Okay, I will... done.
After you make the cut (indicated in red), use a cold chisel ($1.00 at Sears) and hammer to bang along the cut, and spread it open. Eventually you'll be able to wiggle the pipe free. When you're reassembling everything, an exhaust clamp will put the slip-fit flange back to normal shape.

First you should check to see if those turned-down ends are really round. You might not be able to bolt a tip onto them.
That's how (damn I just typed this to someone, why didn't I save it?!?!) the Dynomax super turbo catback is. They angle the ends of the pipes down, cut the ends into a slash-cut, and then slightly flatten the pipe at the end so it's a slight oval. A bolt-on tip won't slide over. A weld-on tip would require the welder to un-flatten the oval.
I put Megs chrome rolled edge tips on my car. They're bolt-on's, but only fit a 2" pipe- the Dynomax has 2.5" pipes. I used a tailipipe expander (see http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=468 ) to expand the tip's end to 2.5". Then I spun my bench vise shut, slid the tip's end over the jaws, and opened the vise to spread the tip's end to about 2.75".
Then I used a band clamp (see http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=WLK%2D33240 ) to attach the tip to the tailpipe. The clamp crushed the tip's end back to 2.5 so the tip wound up "wedged" in there.
I was able to cut the tailpipes with the pipes off of the car. But since yours are on there (and will be Held on there with years of corrosion), it might be hard to get a hacksaw in there, and it might be hard to get a decent straight cut. So... you can pick up this tool: http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=454 It works great, and you can get a nice straight cut. (Off topic- how the HELL is that also a strut cut-off tool? A strut would explode!)
Now.. if you've got the room, you might be able to loosen up the tailpipes. This would be similar to replacing a catalytic convertor. You'll need to cut the muffler outlet flanges parallel to the pipe. Crap, I should draw a pic of this. Okay, I will... done.
After you make the cut (indicated in red), use a cold chisel ($1.00 at Sears) and hammer to bang along the cut, and spread it open. Eventually you'll be able to wiggle the pipe free. When you're reassembling everything, an exhaust clamp will put the slip-fit flange back to normal shape.
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