Yessir, it was as simple as changing the fuel pump to an inline variety fuel pump.
Now it runs and idles like a CHAMP.
The only thing that I had to do after the fuel pump swap, was adjust the fast idle torx-headed screw at the top of the throttle body (driver's side).

Once again... thanks to all of you that posted replies.

-Metal

 

Where did you find an inline pump that flowed enough??? I have looked before and never found anything reasonably priced or with enough flow.

 

It's an MSD inline fuel pump... flows @ 125# max, the setup works great.

 

By The Way... here's that fuel pump:

 

how much???

 

Summit Racing

PN: MSD-2225

$76.95

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=MSD%2D2225

3/8 in. inlet, 5/16 in. outlet, in-line, high pressure, electric, fuel pump

Multiport EFI systems require a stable fuel supply to maintain the best performance throughout the engine's rpm range. This high pressure and high flow fuel pump features a roller vane pump mechanism, which is extremely resistant to clogging and jamming. The pump mounts in-line (out of the tank) with two supplied cushioned clamps for a quick and sturdy installation. The nipple inlet is 3/8 in. with a 5/16 in. outlet, and the wire terminals feature brass studs for secure connections. Made in the U.S.A., the pump is ideal as a "booster" for nitrous oxide applications, or as a stand alone-pump for multiport EFI systems on engines up to approximately 500 HP.

 

Oooh oooh I want one I want one.. Wow man, good find.
I might just consider going that route when my fuel pump starts to bite the big one.....

 

Hey there,

I have been going round and round with my 89 Bird seems its the fuel pump also (81k miles here)

Where did you mount the pump at? what did you do about the pump in the tank(just pulled the fuse to it or what?)

I really would like to know as I dont want to pay the killer price to get mine changed and really dont want anyone cutting into the rear area behind the seat.


Thanks for all the help

Donnie H

 

Thats super cheap. I looked several times in the part but only found 12-16 psi ones for $100+

That is the route I would go. Will go. Id hook it to my oil safety switch so it would not run till I had 7psi oil. [LIke my stock one now] And also not keep running and burn ya up in a crash.

========
The intake pump can be just un-hooked and the gas with siphone fine through it. I would just cut the stock leads and run them to the new pump.

 

If you can take the rear end out, you can do the fuel pump yourself intank. It's a piece of cake.

Spend $45 and get a fuel pressure gauge and check to see if you need the fuel pump or not.

 

Donnie H,
Long story short here, a previous owner had cut the access panel (in this car) under the backseat... exposing the top of the fuel tank, so it was a no-brainer to simply remove the in tank fuel pump and use this MSD inline fuel pump.
I mounted it 6" forward of the inline fuel filter, which is basically under the driver's door and halfway under the car.
The reason that I changed the fuel pump was that it was only getting 22# fuel pressure at the Schraeder valve. The car would run, but stumble and stutter... basically it was getting ONLY enough fuel pressure to make it run BADLY.

I sealed the "access panel hole" back up w/ some roofing "ice and water shield", which is basically a VERY sticky rubberized sheathing that will TOTALLY seal the hole back up and not allow road debris to enter the car. Then, I pop-riveted an "L" section of heavy duty sheet metal over the access panel area... which is a big improvement from having the 'exposed hole' there.

If you think you're getting low fuel pressure... rent or borrow a fuel pressure gauge from a local auto parts store (many will rent tools in the Cleveland, OH area). If your fuel pressure is below 45#... then I'd recommend a fuel pump swap.
In my opinion, the 'access panel' route is the easiest and most convenient... but, it appears that I've stirred up the hornet's nest when suggesting it to the masses here.

Good luck.