I have a 91 firebird 3.1 with the following mods

msd 6a ignition
accel ignition wires
accel distribitor cap and rotor
bosch +4 plantinum spark plugs
cold air intake w/ k&n air filter
crane powermax cam .423 lift
transgo shift kit
dynomax ultra flo exhaust cat back/ and high flow dynomax catalyic converter
hypertech thermomaster chip
160 thermostat
jet underdrive pulleys
b&m kickdown kit
eaton differitial/ stock 3.23 gears

what do u think my 0-60 times and quarter mile times are with this stuff and hp and torque?

 

fresh new 3.1= 140Hp

MSD6al will not do anything other than fix faulty stock componants. If your current ignition system is perfect then there is no need- This msd box just duplicates what the computer controled ECM ignition does. It is meerly redondant.

Any decent wires are good- You want low ohms. I have had bad experiences with Accel wires, the boots are crap. I use Taylor with firesleeves added (especially #3 near the EGR)

Any brass cap and rotor

I tried Bosch +4's, car ran fine for a week, then went downhill fast. I pulled them back out after 3 weeks. I am old school Autolite- they have a large solid electrode and will last on a hot ignition.

"Cold air intake" on a Firebird I hear does help due to the restrictive nature of the stock routing. Camaro dual-snorkel style intake are best flow, but wont fit on a Firebird. You MAY gain 1-2HP with CAI.

Cam .423 lift/ 8-10 hp

Shift kit- No HP, just slightly quick 0-60 .2-4 sec aprox based on how firm the tranny shifts (age comes into play also)

High flow cat and muffler/ 5hp on top end

Hypertech chip and 160* term/ if the car will stay in closed loop, which I doubt with 160*, you will richen up the AF ratio and gain a little power. Don't stay in open loop. Cool is power, maybe 2-5hp depending on what else is done.

Pulley (run crank only- trust me, I've done more experimenting with this than anyone with several different high output alts also with the Alt power pulley- took it back off) 3-5hp good feel in difference.

Eaton diff won't do anything for time unless you have crappy tires. I run an Auburn (same basic thing) for handling only. An open diff will run great if you have very good tires- We don't put out enough power to need a posi for launch.

My 2 cents, Dean

 

You forgot the MSD blaster coil.

 

Actually, I perfer and run a Hypertech coil over the MSD blaster. Its a little more expensive but is better made and more powerful/less resistence.

Stock coil-38,000 volts
MSD Blaster- 48,000
Hypertech- 53,000.

The most important thing regarding coil voltage is to use a plug wire that will handle the voltage. I run Taylor 10.4mm wires that have a 50ohm resistence. They transfer spark voltage so well there is no heat buildup and the coil unleases all charge without breaking a sweat.

I have also shielded the underside of my coil with heatwrap to ward off rising heat from the exhaust manifolds.

Edit: I have just started on engineering an electric waterpump setup for our 60*V6 engines. This is sure to give me back 10 horses and produce great flow(35gpm). The standard 60*V6 WP's are terrible in design, the intake port is too small for adequate flow for racing and have to be modified so hotspots aren't persent in the heads.

 

speaking of waterpumps do they make a hi flow unit for the 60* v6

i'm definatly not going with an oem replacement for my 3.4 ltr

 

Airtex is the best aftermarket unit you will find. Its better than the stock Delco pump, but still cavitates at higher r's. The water inlet needs to be cut open and widened by welding a new aluminium inlet box.

 

Here's a picture straight out of the Chev Power Manual that a few have spoken of lately.

 

you have a lead on that power manual, i can't find one up here in canada and i really wanna pick one up

 

Nope, sorry, I've owned mine for about 10 years. Got it through Cone Chev in Fullerton back when I use to race for them. The manual I have is the sixth edition published in 1988

 

hmm i know they made a 7th edition but i can't find one around still, unless you wanna photocopy the v6 part

lol

 

Give me a few days, I'll see what I can do to copy it and have the mods maybe post it atop as a sticky for everyone.

 

Since we're only looking at all out performance here, open/closed loop is of no concern. When the ECU goes into PE mode, it disregards O2 data... temperature is irrelevant. I don't particularly trust Hypertech to have sat down with a dyno and retuned the entire spark curve or changed the injector barometric correction factors, so this chip is merely an alternative to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and advancing your base timing a few degrees, however, that should be worth a solid 5hp.