Hey all. Just a quick question.

my balancer is bad and the mechanic is taking too long to get around to wanting to fix it, so I was wondering if I could do it myself. The question is, how do you put in a new harmonic balancer? Do you need to set the engine to top dead center for the timing line up? If so, how do you know? THanks a lot!

 

Nope, you sure don't (unless you replace the timing chain, too!)

You'll need to rent a $15 harmonic balancer removal tool from Autozone. Remove the big center bolt (It'll take an 18mm socket) unscrew the bolt, use the removal tool, put the new one on (DO NOT HAMMER IT ON - USE A HARMONIC BALANCER INSTALLATION TOOL!) also available for loan @ Autozone. If they can't find the number, just tell them to look - it's back there, but I don't think it's on the little mat thing that shows the tools.

Anywho, the hard part is torqueing the bolt back to spec - the motor will probably want to turn. If it does, and you have a stick shift, just put it in gear, and torque the bolt down!

 

The balancer is keyed to the crankshaft, it'll only fit one way.

Do NOT use the original center bolt to try and install the new harmonic balancer. You'll snap the bolt in half and screw up the crankshaft threads. I know because I did that.

You can also buy one here: http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/shopp...ProductID=2323

They're easy to make but it's hard as hell to find a threaded rod that matches the metric threading of our crankshaft center hole.

And if you want to buy a puller.... sometimes you'll see $30 pullers marked as "harmonic balancer pullers", you can also use a $12 "Ducksfoot" or "Universal" puller. Same thing, and you can use it for more things.

Tip #1:

All those bolts you'll remove, and the holes from which they come, are METRIC. Make sure you use the correct bolts for the puller, and the correct adapter for the installer. The bolts/adapter should thread into the balancer/crankshaft EASILY. If they get tight, you're using the wrong size screw/adapter.

Tip #2:

Coat the outside of the balancer flange (where it'll go into the timing chain cover) with engine oil. This will help your old timing chain cover's "front engine seal" live a bit longer. (Otherwise it'll rub against the dry balancer flange.)

Tip #3:

When you use the puller OR the installer, lube up the puller/installer's center screw. It'll make it easier for you to turn, and, if you've bought the tool, it'll keep the tool's threads in tip-top condition.

Tip #4:

If you have an auto trans, to stop the flywheel from turning, remove the flexplate inspection cover. This sits between the engine oil pan and the trans oil pan, and it's held on with 4 bolts (two 10mm and two 15mm). Wedge a screwdriver into the flexplate holes.

And for your car's sake, remember to remove that screwdriver when you're done!!!!! A good way to remember that is to tape your keys to the screwdriver handle, or tape them to the flexplate inspection cover. (Don't forget to reinstall that cover either!)

 

Good tips, TomP! BTW< you ever get to the track?!

 

Yeah, for the swap meet, to buy an engine hoist. Nope, haven't done crap on the car lately. "Biggest" work done was replacing the rear passenger side's wheel cylinder; it decided to blow out on me. Damn thing drained the whole m/c, but I didn't see the puddle and hit the brakes. Wound up having to bench bleed the m/c and the whole system... ugh. I was so happy I had the phoenix injector!

 

THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE TIPS! I'll take care of that today and check out how stripped my balancer is. It rattles freely right now, as I said, and sounds like someone's beating metal toegether under there every time I shut off the car. Curious to know, since the balancer's bad, should my car do anything unusual like shake? thanks.

 

Yeah, the crank will be trying to shake itself against it's bearings... not good.

If it's really that bad so it rattles, you probably dont' have to take anything apart to check it. Engine should be Off, Keys should be in your Pocket, just reach behind the crank pulley and see if the balancer's outer ring is wobbling around.

I think a new balancer is only $50 from the dealer... of course it could be cheaper thru a junkyard- as long as you get a good one from the yard.

 

Sorry Tom, a new balancer @ the dealer I was quoted $230 And then a new balancer thru my friend who worked at the dealer was $160. GMpartsdirect also lists it for $160.

Just go to the junkyard, and look at any 60° V6 (Fiero, F-Body, Corsica, blah blah blah) and pull one off. I paid $22 at the junkyard for a balancer.