i dont know of anyone else who has this cam, so doward, did it affect the way your car ran at all? i keep thinking about buying this cam. you can see what all im running already in my sig, think it would be ok to put in?

 

Damn, I never realized me and you almost have the same setup, or soon to be.

 

yea its pretty similar, but id like the suspension stuff you have that i dont yet, im a lil jealous of the bigger sway bars and wonderbar

 

and he bought springs where as you cut yours unless I'm mistaken.

 

It won't affect idle quality or anyhting like that if that's what you're wondering about. You're gonna need those springs too. I have this cam. You really should go for somthing with a tad more lift and duration IMO. If I had to do it all over again, I woulda gone for the higher revving cam.Somthing like the hydraulic hauler from Crower (look at cams in their selection, it's one up from the baja beast.

 

i assume youre referring to my valve springs, they are stock, i havent done a thing to them.

if you meant suspension springs, theyre dropzone springs, i didnt cut those either. i wasnt sure since i mentioned suspension w/ dale.

 

Actually, I have purchases a set of 1.75" drop springs, rears are installed. Fronts were wrong and set back for "testing".

Id like your LCAs and brackets.

you get this cam, your gonna be one up on me engine wise But I do have a few things up my sleeve. Got a few parts on order, plus some sitting in storage I dont have the tools/knowledge to put on.

 

ahh, screw it. I'll list stuff.

Engine:
L32 block swap
Polished heads (not ported)
3 Angle Valve Job
Crane 99915 Retainers
Crane 99848 Springs
1.6 Catpep Rockers
LB8 Air Intake
Polished Intake Inside
Brass Cap/Rotor
Taylor 8mm Wires(half set, dont ask)
MSD Coil
Cardone 30-1633 Distrib
ASP Crank Pully
V8 Dual Electric Fans
180 T-stat
High Volume Fuel Pump
ford 19lb injectors
Dynomax 17493 Exhaust
Manual Dump rather then Catconverter
Pacesetter Headers
TB Bypass
ES Poly Trans Mount
EGR Removed
Smog Removed

Suspension:
Unbalanced Eng Panhard Bar
34/24mm Swaybar Combo
ES Poly Endlinks
ES Swaybar Mounts
KYB-GY2 Shock/Struts(RR Blown)
TDS Vr1 Wonderbar
Aluminum Break Drums
Re-inforced LCA's
ST Springs 1.75" (rear only so far)
16 S10 Wheels, 245/50/zr16 Firestone SZ50EP's

Other:
Radio Delete
SRS Removed

On Order/Requested/Have but not installed/working on:
(in process of t5 install)
Craig Motes G3 Prom controler
Zorxel LSD
3.42 Gears
Sphon 301 Torque Arm
Vortex 6 In one Prom Chip
Pro 5.0 Shifter (order tommorow)
Removing Iroc/Blister Hood
Removing rear wing
Painting drivers door

Working on more ideas for subframe bracing.

 

I'm referring to the valvesprings, he'll need somthing other than stock ones (probably worn out anyway). You could go the route suggested to me and buy some K-700's from K-motion, and some +.050 valve locks. You'll be safe with those..

 

Yes, I love mine, for a good step up from stock. It also works REALLY well with a turbo!!

If you want a really beefy cam, then yes - you will want something bigger. Along a 212/218º @ .050" with more like .480/.500" lift.

 

Yeah, that's the one. Idle won't be too choppy either, and it'd have a higher powerband. I noticed another thing about our cams too Doward, it works great with Juice

 

Yes. The MTC-5 is GREAT with any sort of forced induction!

Hey Dale, have you run at the track at all??

 

only drag track around here is 1000ft, and I've not been on it. Pegleg and a ****ty trans is most of reason. Plus I would like someone else to go with incase of problems for backup.


I've ran autocross with it though

Maybe spring I can make it up and have some fun. Gotta get it running and get use to driving stick again, its been over a year

 

did you have to replace the springs too when you swapped in that cam? or will it be ok w/ stock 3.4 springs?

 

I would replace the springs for piece of mind. That is place that a $3 part can cause hundreds of $$$ worth of problems.

 

what springs did you go with or what would you recommend? ive looked at a few different sets

 

Those K Motion K700 springs are supposedly good enough, I don't know the exact specs on them, though.

I used a set of Melling VS-380 Springs, as that is what the cam recommended, installed @ 1.72"

 

there wasnt any milling on the heads or anything was there? and did you install them w/ the heads on or off? i dont really want to pull the heads back off till im ready to P&P them. if you did it on, what did you use to install them on? i know how to do them on, but i dont have the stuff to do it w/ them on, unless theres a "backyard" way. pardon my terminology, not to offend anyone, lol

 

You can swap spring with heads on, buy you a 15$ compression tester from the suto parts store, it should be able to hook to a compressor. It'll keep the valve sealed while you remove and replace the spring. If you don't have an air compressor, the only other way is a PITA, use an old spark plug wire, put most of it into the spark plug hole, then turn the crank by hand until the piston comes up and squishes it to keep the valve closed. It's ghetto, but it works. Definately change the springs, the K-700's hold up to .56 lift I think, more than enough, and they will ahve plenty of seat pressure, good for higer revs I was told.

 

got one already, cool. thats what ill do then, after i get the trans rebuilt. cam is a want, trans is a must. it kinda grinds when i let the clutch out, plus the input shaft has a lot of play i noticed last time it was out of the car.

 

A head gasket set is $65.

Don't cheap out - remove the heads!

 

i really need a better paying job than what ive got, lol. well see once, hopefully i can do this cam along w/ trans yet before spring when the dragstrip opens up.