Type of oil?
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Lincoln Nebraska
Car: 1990 Camaro "RS"
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23 LSD
Type of oil?
Hey can you guys give me suggestions for the type of oil (maybe brand as well) I'm not too clear cut on the differences in viscosity ratings (10w-30, 5w-30, 10w-40 etc) and not sure what would work best on a 21 year old 2.8L engine. I did searches on the forums and found out synthetic isn't probably the best way to go ... but nothing on the oil type.
Thx
Thx
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I always say "dinosaur" oil when I'm talking about the real stuff... I guess technically it's organic (as opposed to synthetic)?
I run 10w30. I think it reduces any leaks since it won't be as thin as 5w30 in cold weather.
Oh and I try to Valvoline oil... but any brand name will be fine. You might not want to trust a "walmart" brand oil, but then again, oil is oil...
I run 10w30. I think it reduces any leaks since it won't be as thin as 5w30 in cold weather.
Oh and I try to Valvoline oil... but any brand name will be fine. You might not want to trust a "walmart" brand oil, but then again, oil is oil...
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Depending on your mileage, if it's over 100k, I'd suggest 20w50 Mobil Drive Clean, and let your car idle for at least 30 seconds before driving anywhere, or revving it 
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 450
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From: Lincoln Nebraska
Car: 1990 Camaro "RS"
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23 LSD
Can someone tell me what all these numbers mean? Something about viscosity and weight?
What makes 20w50 different from 10w-30 and why?
What makes 20w50 different from 10w-30 and why?
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 575
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From: Smithfield, NC
Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 575
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From: Smithfield, NC
Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
It doesn't cause leaks...
from this post: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...etic+oil+leaks
Originally posted by five7kid
Synthetic doesn't "cause" leaks. A fresh engine that gets synthetic after break-in will leak less and use less oil than the same engine with petroleum-based oil over time.
My '86 LG4 was switched to synthetic with 123k miles on the ticker. The oil pan gasket seeped for the 1st oil change, then dried up. The valve stem seals were already gone, so they were changed along with the valve cover gaskets. The front & rear mains never did leak.
Typically, leakage when switching to synthetic is caused by the removal of the grunge that has built up during the use of petroleum oil. There's also the hardening of gaskets and seals caused by the petroleum oil. Real synthetics tend to swell gaskets and seals rather than harden them, so unless worn or cracked, over time leakage will be reduced by continuing to use the synthetic. Consumption sometimes goes up because of the aforementioned desolving of the petroleum deposits dirtying the oil - dirty oil doesn't seal the rings as well as clean oil does. Again, over time, that will be reduced.
The early Mobil 1 formula had a reputation for leakage and higher consumption - their current formulas seem to have improved along those lines. AMSOIL never has and doesn't now have those problems. I haven't heard any such reports on Redline or Royal Purple, so I don't know if there's any issue (must not be). I don't consider anything else a true "synthetic", in spite of their court victories.
"High mileage" oils are a cruel joke perpetuated on an gullible populace by Madison Avenue. These "additives" they boast about are all natural properties of a synthetic base engine oil. Additives take the place of lubricants in the formula - there's only 32 ounces of volume in a quart of oil: If you add something, you have to take something else out. Detergents and plastisizers don't lubricate, and zinc isn't going to make up the difference. If you hadn't been using their "meets warranty requirements - barely" products in the 1st place, you wouldn't have a problem that now needs "solving".
An engine that has 75,000 miles on it with a real synthetic will wear out sooner if it is then changed over to MaxLife.
Synthetic doesn't "cause" leaks. A fresh engine that gets synthetic after break-in will leak less and use less oil than the same engine with petroleum-based oil over time.
My '86 LG4 was switched to synthetic with 123k miles on the ticker. The oil pan gasket seeped for the 1st oil change, then dried up. The valve stem seals were already gone, so they were changed along with the valve cover gaskets. The front & rear mains never did leak.
Typically, leakage when switching to synthetic is caused by the removal of the grunge that has built up during the use of petroleum oil. There's also the hardening of gaskets and seals caused by the petroleum oil. Real synthetics tend to swell gaskets and seals rather than harden them, so unless worn or cracked, over time leakage will be reduced by continuing to use the synthetic. Consumption sometimes goes up because of the aforementioned desolving of the petroleum deposits dirtying the oil - dirty oil doesn't seal the rings as well as clean oil does. Again, over time, that will be reduced.
The early Mobil 1 formula had a reputation for leakage and higher consumption - their current formulas seem to have improved along those lines. AMSOIL never has and doesn't now have those problems. I haven't heard any such reports on Redline or Royal Purple, so I don't know if there's any issue (must not be). I don't consider anything else a true "synthetic", in spite of their court victories.
"High mileage" oils are a cruel joke perpetuated on an gullible populace by Madison Avenue. These "additives" they boast about are all natural properties of a synthetic base engine oil. Additives take the place of lubricants in the formula - there's only 32 ounces of volume in a quart of oil: If you add something, you have to take something else out. Detergents and plastisizers don't lubricate, and zinc isn't going to make up the difference. If you hadn't been using their "meets warranty requirements - barely" products in the 1st place, you wouldn't have a problem that now needs "solving".
An engine that has 75,000 miles on it with a real synthetic will wear out sooner if it is then changed over to MaxLife.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Basically a synthetic oil molecule is smaller than an organic molecule... so your old seals might ooze. From my old V6 club, some people had their engines leaking like crazy after trying synthetic, and other guys had no problems.
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