Alright this is what i have so far and comment and criticsm will be appriecia

I have my 2.8 out of my baby and under going a serious rebuild, granted nothing was wrong with her but having 176,000 miules i thought it was time for a make over.

So far I have Forged JE Pistons, Forged Eagle Rods, and a Reinforced stock crank. Sent those things to the shop with my new Aluminum block to be setup and internally balanced. And when they say the block weighs 57lbs man they arent lyin, looks weird carryin a block with ease knowing itll be putting out alot of power for the motor size.

Anyways motor is assembled, new flexplate and dampner, dampner had to be modded (adding weight to it) to make it balance out for the new, made sure everything was decked and to perfect tolerances.

Then I brought in my aluminum heads, had them ported and polished, 3 angle valve job, had the heads checked completely cause i dont need no hair line crack blowin apart my motor at the track, Had him gut the heads, putting in titanium valve guides, stainless steel retainers, and valves. Upgraded the valves to 1.72/1.40 . Same size as the 3.4 valves. put in crane dual springs able to push up to a .510 lift since the cam is crane cam. (cam lift .460 in/.480 exh) Put on the Comp Cam High Energy timing chain

FAIR IDLE, DAILY PERFORMANCE USAGE, GOOD LOW AND MID-RANGE TORQUE AND HP, 3200-3600 CRUISE RPM, 9.5 TO 10.75 COMPRESSION RATIO ADVISED. BASIC RPM 2500-6000.

Had the heads decked to tolerances, and put the heads on the motor. Pushing 9.5:1 with compression now instead of the 8.9:1 being stock. he thru in the comp cam hi energy pushrods, with the crane full roller rockers (1.6 ratio), thru on the perty chrome edelbrock valve covers. Motor lookin pretty good. Next we took the lovely stock MFI intake ported and polished it to match the heads, since the edelbrock carb manifold only bolts to the cast iron heads, from what i was told. I went witht he MFI manifold but i may have to do a petition to get trickflow and edelbrock to make heads and intakes for use 2.8/3.1/3.4 lovers. ANyways, motor is complete brought back to my house, only thing bothering me is having a stock crankshaft. and the aluminum heads... but wont learn anything unless we try.

Get home drop the motor into the car, have a 1800 stall converter already sitting onto the front of my stock freshly redone 700r4 with a tci shift kit. Even redid the driveshaft to aluminum. to help shave weight.

Front fenders, hood, are now fiberglass. (but looks like a zebra atm not painted.) ANyways hooked up all the computer stuff,made sure the stage 2 jet chip was in, bolted on the pacesetter headers, y-pipe, thru in a cut off and new hi-flow cat, as well as a new borla exhaust setup. hooked up the msd 6AL, blaster coil, Primed the motor .Im feelin pretty good just about ready to fire up the car. (make sure you run 93 oct) with the stage 2 chip from jet. Bolted up a home made air intake kit. made sure everything was up to par. Ok time now to start the car.

You wanna talk about firing on first turn over. FIred right up, and man was the idle fair? no, it sounded like a friggin sick sick 6 cylinder like it wanteed to die, well , we adjusted the idle to almost 900 rpm she sounded better, pushed the petal 2000 rpm for the intial break in BS. after about a hour of makin sure everything was ok. Shut her down drained the oil, replaced it, checked coolant level.

Fired her back up.... backed out of the driveway, and what guy wouldnt want to see what the monster can do....

Well..... I hammered the pedal to the floor, (mind you it has a stock rear end with a 3.42 gear pizza cutter) that will be changed soon anyways. to a 3.73 posi. Hit thta gas and man you want to talk about a friggin BIG difference if there was bugs around, wasnt any around anymore. first and second gear on the 700r4 nothing but tire smoke. man who said 2.8 couldnt do it. Well I went to my friends house up the street who had a 1989 bone stock mustang GT, started eggin him on, hell i wanted to see what this motor could do. So we went to the back roads to a nice smooth road. Lined up had a guy set us off to race, He got me out of the hole, not alot but once the motor hit 2500 rpm, I started pulling on him, and when i hit 6500 rpm seemed like th emotor wanted to go more like it wasnt enough, but i wasnt gonna push it powerband was supposedly to 6k. well the little 2.8 dog walked him by 2.5 car lengths. But I learned how weak the 10bolt rear ends are though. Cause after the race I did a whole shot and blew the cover apart,, destroying the rear end. LOL. So those of you who dont believe in the lil 2.8/3.1/3.4 need to reconsider. It cost me about not including buying the aluminum block. I coulda saved myself alot if i just got a stock block, but it cost me no more then 2500 for everything for the motor. And nnow that the rear end is built again and I had a emissions test to take, I was alittle worried about the car , but it passed!!! Now Im toying with the idea of nitrous for the motor nothing alot just a 100hp shot - 150hp shot. Will the crank and heads hold that shot of nitrous? Im not sure but Im really curious to find out, My machine shop said Im pushing about 245hp at the rear tires, I find that alittle hard to believe. So next couple weeks when i can get my car onto the dyno, I will post the dyno sheets for the car and we will all see what alittle work will do. If I get 230 at the wheels a 100 shot of nitrous will make it close to a 13 second ride. Now that is very respectable for a 2.8. Cant wait for the tracks to open, wanna see what she does without nitrous.

Anyone know if the stock aluminum heads and crank can hold that kind of horsepower?? My machine shop guy at percision thinks it can but makes me wonder, seeing there isnt a single forged crank out there for these motors since they were used for road racing. Unless im mistaken... please correct me if im wrong.

Ok input on tricks and things I can do to lighten the firebird, more?

as well as ideas I can do to make sure my heads and crank can hold up to the nitrous?

Let me know im very curious... Thanks , my next project is building a similar 2.8 but with a supercharger on it but im still in the planning stage of it, havent found a company who will work with me on it.

 

Wow...that's one hell of a first post....
Congrats. As for the nitrous issue, how much total compression are you running ? I would say if you hit the 200 whp mark on that motor, to jsut keep it that way (sounds like it's pushing the limits...). My 3.4 won't spin through 2nd unless I do it on wet pavement...
How did you go about mating the FWD aluminum heads to the RWD intake manifold?

 

Ok, a couple two or three things in here...

1) the stock fuel injected head valve size, is 1.72"/1.42" - stock.
2) the stock heads? Cast Iron. the aluminum heads are FWD, and will not work with the stock RWD MPFI intake.


Ok, sounds to me, like you've got a stock 2.8, with a cam/headers/exhaust? You saved weight, yes, but did you port the intake/heads at all?

If not, I do have trouble believing you took a stock '89 GT. That's a mid 14 second ride, stock - unless he's automatic, then a 14.9-15.0

I could see you pulling a 15.5-15.7. AM91's got a SERIOUS 3.1, (10.75:1 cr and all that) and he's pulling low 15s, looking for high 14s.

Either way, sounds like a very bad 2.8 motor!! Get a new intake, or wait a month-month and a half, and I'll have the new intake/throttle bodies ready

 

It was a stock GT auto Regardless im happy the 2.8 walked from it, I was told by my machinist they are aluminum heads, Ill call him first thing in the morning and verify that. Ive got the Aluminum GM block. How much for the intake/throttlebody. Id be willing to buy it and test it out. went to the truck stop today and weighed me and my car tipping the scale at a cool 3270lbs , I need to shave more weight. Im thinking of trying the 4bbl intake from edelbrock, ill gain 10-20 horse if calculations are right just from that. I am aiming for mid-high 13s but thats on nitrous. Realistically on motor im aiming for somewhere in the 14's. If i lighten the car my goal will be easily met. Ill get all the information from steve at percision machine shop and ill post what was said. My goal is to make the only 2.8 around where i live and shut the v-8 boys down. Everyone says im a idiot for building a 2.8.. ya know what, if I build a 3.1 im like everyone else, or same goes for 3.4, granted id get 10-20 horse more from 3.4 but Im want to keep the cars numbers matching. and be unique, cause everyone has v-8s, hell if my firebird had a 4 banger if id be looking to doeverything i can to the 4 banger lol. but anyways, the question still stands will the crank and heads take the nitrous?

 

So its a carb'ed 2.8 with aluminum heads and block????

How much was the block?

 

the blocks went for $3k new from the GMPP catalog (cheap KED85 pop)

lets see some pics of this beast.

 

Far as Im aware according to my machinist I have aluminum heads, the aluminum block? cost $2,991.63 thank ***. weighs 47lbs. . ATM its fuel injected, Im gonna grab a edelbrock intake and carb for it. You want the link for the aluminum block? well worth the money will be the last block you will ever buy, i can say that much.

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ GM PART # 10051141 DO NOT ORDER FROM GM THEY WILL RIP YOU order from these guys, they way cool

 

Ok lemme get current pictures of the car and get them put to cd, then scan them so I can show you guys..... dont mind the body, its a zebra and i have to get her painted..

 

Sounds like a pretty mean engine, man. Can't wait to see your dyno numbers.

 

This guy is so full of crap.

quote:
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Originally posted by Halogram:
Far as Im aware according to my machinist I have aluminum heads
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OK, So he spends the money and buys a trick $3000 aluminum
racing block- But he "thinks" he has aluminum heads.

Lets see proof junior.

 

Ya know criticism is cool it dont bother me but assuming is another Im not a rocket scientist nor have I said I was 100% sure the heads are painted I DID NOT assemble the motor so how am I suppose to distingiush if its aluminum, or cast iron, without takin the valve cover off? Ill pull the numbers off the head if I can read them. Ya know what aint worth arguin over this or even makin BS comments about something when I said I am calling my machinist up in the morning to clarify if I maybe misunderstood him, so its all good im just gonna ignore the ignorant. I thought id share my experience with this motor and what I HAVE done with it. People like him make showing what work ya have done seem like crap when they either A) jealous of what you accomplished or B) Or ya cant read or C) just plain ignorant. I gave the heads to him off my 1988 firebird, I didnt examine them, or even look, but according to what I got from him he said aluminum. So is that wrong to say? I dont think so, If Im wrong, Im wrong. Im not ashame to admit it if I am wrong. But we will see now wont we.

peace

 

when you say you have all these performance parts and no actual proof people get really skeptical. it just comes with you saying i have a fast 60degree engine...

 

Might I re-emphisize the "criticism" you asked for

Lets point out how stupid YOU think we are, yet what you missed in your lies. Why in the hell would you remove a motor from a car to "rebuild" it if it was still running- when in FACT you state in the very next paragraph the you are not using one single part from the bottom end of the stock motor? You are a 15 year old kid that is making up a story. Anyone really doing this would not tear down a running car until the motor is ready to immediately drop in. No one is going to buy a $3000 aluminum racing block unless they are a very wealth person, and who the hell would be driving a stock older V6 camaro in the first place if they were in fact "very" wealthy. No parent is going to supply that kind of cash for their kid either to waste on a car like this because most wealthy parents would just buy you a safer new sports car for reliability and safety- and prestiege!

So now you try and portray being such an EXPERT on performance parts and how you really investigated and put together a super trick setup. THEN you even state how YOU carried your own ALUMINUM heads to the machine shop (third paragraph, first sentence above) The later state that you are not certain if the heads on the motor are alum or not when questioned about fit- "I don't know, Ill check with my mechanic, I got them off my firebird to begin with" You said above you carried they, you held them, if true, right there a 10 year old would know if they were alum or iron.

Again, you are full of crap and making up a story.

I wont even bother going on tearing apart the loophole in the rest of this quote

 

wow. what more can i say?

 

let me just say that i have a lot more cam than that and i'm only running 15s, like doward said. and, i have a lot more compression. i am not at 200 rwhp. the aluminum fwd heads will not bolt up to the mpfi intake. i have two or three sets of these heads layin around, they won't bolt up. use a magnet to check them...magnets won't stick to aluminum. i am running the 7.5" 10 bolt and have pulled a 2.06 60' time at the drag strip and my rear end has come no where near coming apart. i've also had 26"x8.5" slicks bolted on it. by the way...the stock rear end cover is steel, how'd you blown it apart? congrats on going for the v6 built up though. its always fun to see other people want them to go fast, too. did your heads by any change get flow tested? if so, do you have the numbers from them?

 

Ok got off the phone with steve at percision, and as I said its my mistake they are cast iron heads. and I said I wouldnt have any problems saying if I was wrong. So im wrong and im sorry for that. They seemed like it to me they are light heads.. Im no master engine tech. I never said I was a "EXPERT" at anything. Im just gonna stop right here, I have what I said except the aluminum heads, which are for transverse engines, like you said, which can be mounted to RWD engines but you have to do a bit of modding for it to work. Anyways its all good each to their own opinion. and I respect that. when i get the dyno test done and my pictures ill post them. I still want to know about that custom intake that is being made, let me know how much drop me a email at halogram@gmail.com. NOw if you'll excuse me but i have a 69 camaro i need to do body work to, so take it easy all. As for the rear end, some how the pinion was missing teeth, so me and a friend replaced it went from a 3.42 to a 3.73.

 

Just read most of this. I'm kinda wondering why an OTC Prom is being used rather then a custom. I've got less mods then that and is in desire need of a custom Prom.

O well, I'd be happy to see the pictures of it assembled, being assembled, and piece parts.