I've got a couple of questions, if you don't mind...

1) I put a set of Dropzone springs on my car - they actually lifted my car over the worn out stock ones, but they are supposed to be 1" lower than NEW stock. I believe it, as they are the same height (after settling in) as my rears (that I haven't gotten around to changing yet, more on that in a second) and I really like the stance.

Will I need to get a bumpsteer kit for it? I've completely rebuilt the front end, minus anything with the steering gearbox, or rag joint. I need to get another alignment (as the shop I brought it to managed to take my $50, and screw me over - claimed I have a bent frame, which, IIRC, would have prevented them from getting anywhere NEAR stock specs) My problem is, is that although the steering feels tight in the middle of a turn, it's when you first turn the wheel that I can't stand. I have like 1" of dead play left or right (aka, I can wiggle the wheel left and right, with no movement of the wheels!). My $50 '88 Honda Accord, I love the steering - it's very responsive, and has no play in it. I move it a little to the right, I go a little to the right. Do you see what I'm getting at here?

2) Traction, as far as the rear end is concern. Will I get better traction installing the HD Zexel Torsen differential I have here, or will I get better results finishing my T6-6061 aluminum LCAs? I don't want to install the springs, until I either install the LCAs or the ZT diff. I have the stock tq arm, with a ES poly tq arm mount.

3) I want to work on getting a set of subframe connectors, and have been looking at the Spohn set, as I like the outer perimeter design. Would you recommend these, or a different set? My car is mainly street use, but I do like to hit the 1/4 every so often, and I'm interested in perhaps AutoX my car sometime, after I get a decent suspension.

Appreciate it!
John

 

sorry, not dean here but i do have Spohn SFCs and they make a world of difference. before i had them in, it sounded like my sunroof (which i hate anyway) was going to blow out. after i got them installed, wow, that car is solid. no more body roll creaking. it feels like there is so much more control on hard take offs and hard turns.

 

Dean recommends the spohn sub frames, as that was his suggestion to me, thats what I have, and what he has. Very nice

I personally say that with the turbo, you will see better traction gains putting in the posi over the LCA's.

You "should" get a bump steer kit, but it sounds like your having more rear traction problems and money could be better spent out back at this time. Then later get the front kit.

All personal opinions here

 

try replacing your center link, I had the same problem before

 

Centerlink, balljoints, shocks, springs, tie rod ends (inner and outer) pitman arm, idler arm, tie rod adjusting sleeves are all new, greased up with Mobil 1 synthetic grease.

 

Hey Doward,

I would say you are suffereing from one, another or even both problems below.

1) the steering box may be worn and in need of adjustment to snug the worm gear- or it may be worn entirely and in need of replacement. That will cause slop in the wheel. You tighen it too much and it can cause a binding feel in some spots while turning the steering wheel. But try and snug it maybe a 1/4 turn on the top screw. Loosen the nut, turn the srew in a 1/4 turn, and then resnug the nut so it doesn't adjsutment screw doesn't move. If that causes bind, then put it back where it was.

2) Check the strut mounts for excessive wear. When you turn the wheels, the strut shaft will slop side to side taking up any initial movement until the "lock over to the edge of the strut rubber retainer and then the steering will react. This can be damgerous if they are severely worn and causing steering slop. Balljoints can do the same when worn. Worn strut mounts can also render the struts useless in damper effect for about 1/2" up and down from stagnant becuase the rubber allows suspension travel up and down without the strut shaft even moving inside the strut housing. This can really kill performance and expecially high speed driving feel or comfort zone when you are not getting low speed damping from the strut. The strut will only feel like its working over larger bumps and the smalller stuff will cuase the car to have a slight porpose feeling.

The most noticible improvement you can do to these cars for steering perciseness and response is to go to a solid bearing mounted strut mount instead of the stock rubber bushing strut mount. (I am technically not suppose to say anything, but Spohn has something you may be real interested in in about 3 weeks. Don't go with the billet aluminum ones, they are showing wear over time and the bearing starts to slop around and make a clunking noise. Just keep an eye out for Steve to anounce something new real soon.

Tires can also show slop in steering response if the sidewalls are poor quality.

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Torsen by far will improve traction over any aftermarket LCA. LCA's with new bushings will make the rear feel more stable under your seat at all times keeping you better in touch with the car, but they will barely help traction in comparison to a clutch or locking style rear diff.

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Spohn is by far the best SFC's out there.
1) for the perimeter design that DOES connent the front and rear subframes together (unlike some false claims from people that have no clue)
2) They traigulate brace the chassis for lateral support via the inner connector braces
3) they have fantastic ground clearance no one else can claim that
4) they can be used as a jacking point on the car (this is great for us backyard mechanics without hoists)
5) they also have the provisions to sheer welded(which I have done to mine) in incrememts along the chassis so to alleviate perpindicular flex of the chassis. Just as a sheer panel would do to supoport a wall of a house for earthquake movement.

 

Ok, Dean, I appreciate it. I did replace the struts, but not the mounts - I really wanted to go with spherical bearing mounts in that department, and since I got the Gabriel Ultra's (Autozone's version of the Monroe Sens-a-tracs) I have NO problem with going back in there, and replacing the struts with something else (I'm thinking Koni Reds, actually - lifetime warranty against defects AND wear means I'll never buy another set again!) so I will be able to replace the strut mounts at that time.

I'm also thinking of fabricating a 3 point strut tower bar as well, at that time.

As far as sidewall is concerned, Kuhmo Ecsta 711s, 245/50/16s ($65/apiece! )

 

the kumho 711 are awsome tires, and for the price they can't be beat.

 

How serious is it when the strut mounts are bad?

I went into a shop when I got my car, and they said that the driver's side mount was weak and you could see if move a bit when the suspension moved...

I've been getting an increasing problem with my car darting left when I hit the brakes...

any correlation?

And Doward, I have a similar problem with my steering, I have a good 5-8% of slop in my steering... when I'm on the highway, and I'm trying to correct my driving, sometimes I oversteer and such, because of the annoying 'slop'...

 

Scrap, Thad be youre strut mounts going bad causing those problems. Not to mention the added bounce your are getting from your front struts not daming tthat 1/2" up and down on transition from bump-to-rebound and rebound-to-bump.

Replace them and the car will feel much better all around.

Spohn in coming out with Billet "steel" solid mount one very soon that will work for both coilovers and regular applications. I don't know if I am suppose to be saying this yet, but they should be ready very soon. The CNC parts have already been ordered for a production run. I am going to sh*tcan my aluminum billet mounts.

 

how much you s'pose those billet steel mounts will cost?

would those be much better than other mounts I would get at autozone or whever the local shop would dig some up?

and I am planning on bagging my car in the future... should I be getting a certain kind of mount in anticipation?

also... did any thirdgen actually come with coil-overs? I thought that those only came in fourth-gens...

coil over just means the shock/strut is running in the middle of the spring... right?