I know tom is going to paste in a search and make me feel stupid after looking for an hour myself but I gotta know.

I would like a nice sounding cam, I'm not drag racing...(well you know what I mean, I'm not looking for 7.566 sec -14.0 sec 1/4 mile runs) I just would like a nice lope sound without buying something that doesnt fit or only buying 1/2 of what I need.

I'm an '86 firebird 2.8 fuel injection, everything stock.
Looking for a decient cam idea and maybe some muffler ideas.
Don't want to change the whole exaust or heads just nice sounding car. I've had plenty of cars that pass everything but the gas station....now just want something that sounds good....have I said sounds good...enough....lol.

Thanks

 

216/228 cam (the same that Am91_camaro has) + flowmaster 80 series 2.5" straight through.

 

How is this CAM performance wise?

Not jacking the thread, I got the same question so might aswell keep it in the same thread.

I was thinking Headers, 2.5" all the way back into Flowmaster 40's, no cat, then maybe a cam later. Sound + Performance would be my thing, I wouldnt want ti sounding mean when it still pulls stock.

 

am91 and i were talking about cams the other day, i got one from crane thet is .500 and .52o lift, he got one that is not too much less lift. both of theese cams are race cams(mine designed for circle track) my best suggestion is to go with a say crane compucam 2030 and slow your idle down to say 500-750rpm and but a large free flowing exhaust with a quality muffler. my valvetrain setup was almost 900$ til i got done getting all the little odds and ends. i don't think that you want to spend that much just for a little noise. something else that will help with that lope that you are looking for is a set of headers.

 

Well, I would go all out with the v6 and my ex-wife knew me when I built/wrecked hotrods and she's scared to death that I'll have this thing shooting flames out it's ****......but I'm 37 y/o and actually pay rent/utils/ins/gas...it was fun when I was 17 living at home and all I had to do is buy the gas...oh and the starter fluid for the flames....LOL

I have read quite a few posts here with searching and all and have decided I like the 60's & 70's better....Fire and gas was all you needed to get the thing to run and I feel dated when I here things like "I'm getting a kick *** chip".....I'm thinking chocolate??? with milk??? I don't know. Back in the day of my hotrods, my uncle was the mastermind, he was a dirt track/drag strip mechanic/racer he knew all the numbers and stuff and we/he built quite a few really quick cars, red light to red light.

We wasn't going to out run you for long distance but boy you would in up in the backseat when you hit the gas if you wasn't careful..... sorry for the trip through memory lane.....that'll be 5 bucks.....

any way, I know I really need the heads and headers but I'm kinda scared I'll lose my mind and start shooting flames out the **** too....That's what I realy wanna do...hardy har har....mainly to **** off some of these **** burners I have working for me...lol
I tell them Yea I had a car sounded just like that when I was a kid....You sat it on the floor pulled it back and WHEEEE there she goes...

sorry

 

Im getting the crane h-260-2 cam specs are Duration @ 0.50 204 and 216 and a lift of .427 and .454. With this cam and pacesetter headers, also my 2.5 inch dynomax catback with dynomax cat give my car a decent lope sound?

 

i think that greengird got it with a milder cam and the headers and the catback system, the 2.8's idled at around 750. most cars when you bring that down to say 500 where it is barely running(sneeze and it almost stalls) should give you a nice v8 sounding lope, atleast it did with the 97 mustang 3.8(idle meaning with custom side exhaust) that i had(gave it up up for the camaro i got now)

 

how do u make it idle at 500rpms??

 

adjust the idle screw on the throttle cable side of the throttle body, there might be a cap over it, take that cap out an it is eithor a #20 or 25 star bit. like the ones on the inside trim of the car(on the dash and the door and the center console. back it out to lower your idle, and turn it in to raise the idle. i know that you are prolly kicking yourself in the butt right now, but some poeple don't know, so i figured that i would answer that question.

 

you are not supposed to adjust that screw!! reason being that the computer will still control you idle via the "idle air control valve". the only real way to adjust idle is through the computer.

 

You only adjust that throttle stop, to adjust minimum air.

 

true and i am not arguing that it is not a throttle stop, as it is, but the books call it the idle adjustment screw. it works as you said to reduce the air going to the engine at idle, but because it reduces the air, it makes the engine run rich at that certain rpm, so the computer changes the mixture to make it run within spec, lowering the amount of fuel going to the engine, thus reducing idle rpm.