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manifold to y-pipe stud question

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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 08:40 PM
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eddie jr's Avatar
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From: PA
manifold to y-pipe stud question

Do the studs actually thread into the manifolds? Will the studs unscrew when you get on the nuts? The reason I ask is that the nuts (and the stud where the nut is) are in horrible shape and will never come off. However, I was wondering will the stud then unscrew from the manifold so that I can still get them off, or am I screwed??
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 08:49 PM
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Project: 85 2.8 bird's Avatar
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
I had teh studs on teh driver side say pu, & the pas side each screwed out w/teh nut rusted toit when I put the y-pipe on teh 3.4 I had. what you don't want is for half the stud to com e off, or even 3/4 of it.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 08:51 PM
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From: jacksonville, fla
Car: 1987 camaro & 70 mustang
Engine: 2.8l & built 351C
Transmission: borg warner T-5
any bolt dealing with the exhaust is a b***h cause of the heat and cooling process. you got about a 50% chance of breaking the studd off, and trust me you don't want to do that, cause they are a biotch to drill out while still in the car.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 09:12 PM
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From: PA
Originally posted by Project: 85 2.8 bird
I had teh studs on teh driver side say pu
What happened to the drivers side ones?
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 09:27 PM
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From: jacksonville, fla
Car: 1987 camaro & 70 mustang
Engine: 2.8l & built 351C
Transmission: borg warner T-5
mine broke, well atleast one did. it was a pain in my ****
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 09:34 PM
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eddie jr's Avatar
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From: PA
Originally posted by 87blueracr
mine broke, well atleast one did. it was a pain in my ****
where did it break and how did you fix it?
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 09:42 PM
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From: jacksonville, fla
Car: 1987 camaro & 70 mustang
Engine: 2.8l & built 351C
Transmission: borg warner T-5
left side looking from the bottom, and they broke with about 1/4" above the flange, i ground it flat with the flange, and then i drilled it out with a drill 2 sizes smaller than the tap drill, and then i took a punch and pliers and broke enough of the old stud to show about 1 full turn of thread, and then i used a tap the correct size and excavated the rest of the old stud out. it is the exact same thing that a machine shop would do first to remove a stud that they could not get with a extractor. i am a machinist in the navy, so it was pretty common work for me, but it still was a bi**h for me cause of the location. i would not suggest someone doing it if it were the first time that they were attempting to drill out a stud. i would suggest taking the manifold off and letting a machine shop do it with you watching so you know how they do it.
they might let you watch, they might not, just depends on how strict they are and if the boss is around.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 09:53 PM
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Originally posted by eddie jr
What happened to the drivers side ones?
the driverside studs stayed up, then my fingers tooka dump when I tried to type it.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 09:55 PM
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From: PA
Do the stud holes go right through the manifold on the drivers side too (like the passenger side)?

87blueracr: What did you use in their place? New studs or bolts??

Last edited by eddie jr; Jun 15, 2005 at 09:57 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 10:00 PM
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From: jacksonville, fla
Car: 1987 camaro & 70 mustang
Engine: 2.8l & built 351C
Transmission: borg warner T-5
bolts work fine for me. haven't had a problem since. i was worried that i was gonna break through the wall with the drill bit though!
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