Would this work ok on a slightly modded V6?

These are the specs:

Brand: Crane Cams
Product Line: Crane CompuCam Cam and Lifter Kits
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,000-4,000 RPM
Intake Duration 050 inch Lift: 198
Exhaust Duration 050 inch Lift: 204
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 198 int./204 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 258
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 264
Advertised Duration: 258 int./264 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.401
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.423
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.401 int./0.423 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 104
Intake Valve Lash (in): 0.000
Exhaust Valve Lash (in): 0.000
Computer Controlled: No
Lifters Included: Yes
Lifter Style: Hydraulic flat tappet

Would this be smog legal and be able to work with stock computer? Any other parts needed?

 

Thats a weak cam i think its only a tad bit better than stock if not the same as stock. Look at the crane powermax h-260-2 or the crane powermax h-272-2

 

Yeah I really dont want to go all out on a cam,just a mild one is fine.I still want to run stock computer and fuel system.

 

yea, them specs look really close to the same one thats in the 3.4. Which is just a slight hair more agressive then the 2.8/3.1


IMO you could go slightly bigger, still be smog/ecm ok.

 

Go at least 204/214 @ .050" lift, and .420" lift @ valve.

 

How much apx would a performance shop charge to install one? Any new parts needed for installation?

 

well since your doing the cam, and have the front of the motor off, do the timing chain and water pump. and give your distributor a rebuild

 

The motor has 30 K on it

 

Doesn't matter - at least replace the timing chain. I'd spring for the Cloyes double roller, myself

 

$400-$600.
Figure $50 and hour.
Plus parts.
Runs good?
Leave it alone & bump up power else where.
Ignition, exhaust, more gain for same amount of money.
Yes IF ya got front of engine off, do replace the timing chain. It's very wise option for cost of only $30-ish in part. And mucho effort to replace.
If ya want more power & cam upgrade?
Replace the rockers with a high performamce part.

 

I would highly recommend the CompCams kit # CCA-K16-233-4
from Summit Racing.

I am using that cam and lifters but not those springs because I am going 1.6 alum rockers and not the factory 1.5 steel ones.

This kit is nice for several reasons.
1) Its still computer friendly
2) the .440/.440 grind allows for more intake charge which we need in comparison to the exhaust side- most all other grinds are pony downed versions of V8 cams- V8's need exhaust help, they are opposite. Hence why most grinds you see have a higher exhaust side lift.
3) comes with the lifters
4) comes with the proper spings for that overall lift. Your stock springs will not accept any larger cam grind and WILL have to be upgraded so you can run more lift.
5) andmost importantly, it is still in the range of you stock compression motor so you will not need to boost compression to get the potential out of the cam, nor will you have to change you gearing or your convertor.

 

$50/hr is cheap labor, the new shop I'm working at charges $65/hr, and we're cheaper than most of the shops in the area.

I would figure to have someone install it would be about $70/hr. that way, when you get the estimate and it's cheaper, you're not shocked.

Unless you bump up the compression or end up running lean due to the new cam (I don't see why you would, but it could happen) I wouldn't stress out too much about the ignition stuff. There is little power to be found there. A stok coil is capable of up to 40KV, so given that it only takes about 25KV to fire the cylinder under load, I doubt you need a better coil. Wires could benifit you though, if you go with lower resistance ones because they allow you to keep your burn time up instead of sucking the rest of the voltage out before it gets to the cylinder.

I would go with the cam that RTFC pointed out if you have the money. It looks fairly tame so you should be able to run it with the computer and fuel system already on the car.

Something else you might want to think about... Rhodes makes a set of lifters that are designed to leak down at idle so that you can run a bigger cam, but still get a smooth idle, but once you get up in the RPM range, they pump back up and you get the full benifit of a moderatly wilder cam. I think I heard somewhere that the V8 lifters fit our cars...not 100% though, so don't quote me on that. This way you can spend the money on the cam that you really want and still be ECM friendly.

Just a thought.

 

PS Latest low milage 3.4 long block score was at $600. And that comes with 160HP & 200 foot pound of torque.
That's why I suggest instead seeking alternatives to a cam project.
Dollar for dollar spent the 3.4 powerplant upgrade always wins the power seeking option dollars.
But upgrading the ignition and exhaust does swap over to a 3.4 powerplant upgrade, in future.
Which in end, still will reap you further gains for the same dollars spent.

 

Does a cam need to be broken in like gears? If so,how long or how many miles?

 

I like the specs of that cam u listed dean. I wonder if that cam is as good for turbo as the h-260-2 cam is.

 

i read about those lifters in hot rod i'll get it and post more tomorrow.

 

The Rhoades lifters are very common in the old Pontiac circles (455 + Rhoades + 041 RAIV Cam = 12s, set up properly)

The problem is, is that they are load when bled down, and idling. They basically collapse when idling, and as RPMS come up they pump back up, to provide full lift/duration of the camshaft. Think of them, as VTEC lifters

 

Varible lifters have taken on the "bad cam band-aid solution" image.
Recently read about them being used for roller cam set ups now out.
Same solution to having installed a wrong cam choice.
They good or bad (varible lifters)?
Personal installers choice of solution....to me.

 

A cam should always be broken in with smaller rockers if you are ultimately using high ratio rackers to get more lift and duration (Duration @ .050 that is, we all know that duration remains the same from vavle point .000 to .000 on the open and close duration)

You want as little pressure on the cam lobes as possible for the initial run for about a 1/2 hour, the you can install the 1.6 rockers if you want them. Lots of monkey snot on the lobes before firing the motor. Then crank the starter without the coil wire hooked for about 6 to 8 *20 second bursts* then immediately hook the coil wire and fire the motor