On my rear axel is it supposed to "bleed" like this or is this not supposed to do this. It is doing this on both sides. Ive never seen this so I dont know if this is good or bad.

 

It's normal. Chevy's are supposed to bleed oil otherwise they rust.

It would be nice if they didn't bleed oil all over, but then the parts would need paint on them.

BobR.

 

Oh a funny man!!!
What ya got is 100% NORMAL WITH GM AXLES AS THEY AGE
WHY?
GM used spot welds to hold ALXE TUBES to the housing.
GM FULLY WELDS the inside pumpkin with tubes.
BUT YOU ARE SEEING pin hole leaks on the outside spot welds.
TO CURE
READY?
The repair place must FULLY REMOVE THE OUTER PUMPKIN SPOT WELDS AND THEN FULLY WELD ENTIRE TUBE TO AXLE.
It's costly repair only you can decide if that's the repair where you need to spend the money

 

Also one of the ways that you beef up the 10-bolt housing when you are trying to put some serious power through it.

This is how cheap people like me get around buying a 12-bolt replacment. I'm not pushing any extra power through my rear, but it's nice to have it all welded up, ground smooth, and painted gloss black under there.

 

Ked does this hold true to my 68 as well?

 

You should see my 12 bolt on my 1967 Camaro
This is how I learned what's going on.
Fast RS, go from there.
MEANING IF
It's original 1968 and you are pushing power thru it, that option MAY NOT BE the wise choice on which to lavish that labor..
We're gonna have to find you a 10 bolt from the X body, 71-74. From my understanding, a larger gear, for less costs and a hair in size below a 12 bolt gear size. And supposed to bolt right in.

 

But it's so true, lol. A while ago a coworker couldn't get the valve cover gaskets to seal on his SBC equiped Malibu. I told him they were supposed to leak, huh? He responded with a puzzled look. "Keeps the block from rusting."

Only time one should seal a Chevy engine, trans, rear, whatever, up tight, is after you have rebuilt it and in the process painted it. I'm serious, not only or just trying to be funny.

RBob.

 

Yep'er, corporate 10 bolt. 8.5" ring gear, can also use the 30 spline 12 bolt axles. Need a newer carrier such as an Eaton, but well worth it. Do need to shorten the driveshaft, 2" IIRC. Otherwise it bolts right in.

RBob.

 

Thanks for all the info. I was just worried that i snapped something and it was getting worse. I'll probubly reweld it when I redo the engine. Thanks again.

 

How to locate is so easy
Clean the axle.
Apply tracing powder (or "Arrid Extra dry spray deodorant" most powdery stuff out there) and see what happens.
Price out the labor, first.
It "COULD" be a brake hose leak, too!
And I'll bet you could use new brake hoses (up front, too), anyway.

 

Just one more question. If the inside is fully welded and I am seeing oil come through the spot welds wouldnt the inside welds be bad too. I have never taken apart the pumpkin so i dont know much about the parts involved.

 

You are seeing leaks coming thru from inside.
That's why ya reseal at the outside.
PLUS think about the labor to empty the inside for welding.
By cleaning outside first, ya secure the labor results.
But I can also bet your rear & front brake hoses are also shot & so aged. And any work done back there is probably gonna destroy what's left of the original rear hose.
No matter what ya do, get it up in air, check those details and draw your own conclusion. And fixing the brake hoses (front & rear) will be a very inexpensive brake upgrade (try shorter breaking distance).
Facts are the car is aged and attention must be paid to some areas now.
I also added new rear brake wheel cylinders.
What a difference in the stopping distance.