A/C removal
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From: Western PA
Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1/3100 in progress...Turbo Soon
Transmission: 700r4
A/C removal
My a/c does has not worked since I bought my car. With that being said i've grown accustomed to not useing it. I want to take all the a/c components out and free up some hp and space. Would this process be easier to do myself or should i have it done at a shop. Has anyone done this that could tell me what would be better/easier.
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
you're no loosing any hp now, and the weight savings would be better if you relocate te battery to the hatch area. I believe that someone will probably mention an a/c delete pulley sometime in this post
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Chico, CA
Car: 89 Firebird, 92 RS
Engine: 2.8L MPFI, 355 TPI
Transmission: t-5, t-5
Axle/Gears: open 3.42, posi 3.42
all the ac components are a bit heavier than the battery . . . compressor, condensor, whatchacallit, and the thingy . . easily 50-60 lbs. more than the battery for sure. if your talking weight distribution, battery reloc will take you closer to 50/50, but its not actually losing any weight(actually gaining a few lbs from the much longer battery cables).
my service manual for 89 bird shows a belt pattern for no ac, but you'd need a shorter belt. ac delete pulley is always an option too.
my service manual for 89 bird shows a belt pattern for no ac, but you'd need a shorter belt. ac delete pulley is always an option too.
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From: Western PA
Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1/3100 in progress...Turbo Soon
Transmission: 700r4
Im not really looking do distribute the weight, I just want to free up some room to make it look cleaner in the engine bay. I just want to get rid of all the components and put the smaller belt on. Has anyone done that or should i just skip the hassle and get it done by a shop?
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From: Chasing Electrons
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The A/C system can be removed without opening it up. A couple of folks posted this on another board, probably the general/tech board. This has several benefits: one is that it can easily be put back into the car; 2nd, it is easier to sell as it is all in one piece and has not been contaminated by leaving it open; 3rd, no need to see a shop to vac out the R12 (if any is left).
Once removed will need to tie the two wires together on the A/C pressure switch. Otherwise the radiator cooling fan will always run.
RBob.
Once removed will need to tie the two wires together on the A/C pressure switch. Otherwise the radiator cooling fan will always run.
RBob.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
compressor isn't that heavy, condensor barley anyhing. same w/evaporator.2nd gen compressors were the 30lb beasts.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Chico, CA
Car: 89 Firebird, 92 RS
Engine: 2.8L MPFI, 355 TPI
Transmission: t-5, t-5
Axle/Gears: open 3.42, posi 3.42
did a quick search, and youre right. i distinctly remembered seeing figures of around 60 lbs for the whole a/c bit, but whose to say they were even correct . . .
entire ac system is still a good 30+ lbs if you just go with a shorter belt(going from an a/c to non-a/c heater core saves 10+ lbs, compressor is about 15-20 with pulley and the lines and everything else a good 5). that much weight off the nose is pretty significant. ive heard that the battery cables weigh a good 5 lbs at least, and you still have the weight of the battery on your car. they make lighter batteries, just get one of those(only if your car cranks right up and it isnt too cold where you live, they have less cranking duration).
and now instead of recalling past figures i found some actual weights measured by someone, so the above is pretty much accurate.
entire ac system is still a good 30+ lbs if you just go with a shorter belt(going from an a/c to non-a/c heater core saves 10+ lbs, compressor is about 15-20 with pulley and the lines and everything else a good 5). that much weight off the nose is pretty significant. ive heard that the battery cables weigh a good 5 lbs at least, and you still have the weight of the battery on your car. they make lighter batteries, just get one of those(only if your car cranks right up and it isnt too cold where you live, they have less cranking duration).
and now instead of recalling past figures i found some actual weights measured by someone, so the above is pretty much accurate.
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Its one hella hunk of mass to get ride of.
The cooling bennfits are the best though. Once you get that AC rad out of the way. The important rad gets lots of good air.
If you are gonna remove things, remove it all from the fire wall forward and wrap it up for sale later. Or for when you get rich and can afford to have it re-done.
The cooling bennfits are the best though. Once you get that AC rad out of the way. The important rad gets lots of good air.
If you are gonna remove things, remove it all from the fire wall forward and wrap it up for sale later. Or for when you get rich and can afford to have it re-done.
Do yourself a favor
GET IT TO WORK
The defroster works off the A/C system
The car feels better when ya driving with working AC
Go get it pressure tested, account for fresh rebuilt compressor (about $150), silver canister (about $40) & fresh belts for whole engine (about $30). One can still get R12 (about 2 pounds I believe).
Cost is about $300 for operational.
Replace the silver canister & compressor yourself (it is easy! access), have system pressure tested, then, and filled.
With working AC & stuck in traffic, ya feel like a King!
Safer driving conditions, too. I'd have to say of all the upgrades I've done, working AC is one of he best things I ever did to this car of mine.
GET IT TO WORK
The defroster works off the A/C system
The car feels better when ya driving with working AC
Go get it pressure tested, account for fresh rebuilt compressor (about $150), silver canister (about $40) & fresh belts for whole engine (about $30). One can still get R12 (about 2 pounds I believe).
Cost is about $300 for operational.
Replace the silver canister & compressor yourself (it is easy! access), have system pressure tested, then, and filled.
With working AC & stuck in traffic, ya feel like a King!
Safer driving conditions, too. I'd have to say of all the upgrades I've done, working AC is one of he best things I ever did to this car of mine.
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From: Western PA
Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1/3100 in progress...Turbo Soon
Transmission: 700r4
For right now i'll let it go. I've got other stuff thats more benificial than riping out my a/c. Summer is almost over so I will wait till next summer to redo it. From what I've read the only real benifit is more cool air on the radiator. I thought it would be better but you learn somthing new everyday. Thanks for all the info.
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