I picked up another Camaro for a winter beater. 84 Coupe, 2.8L 5spd. It runs but its running really rich. I'm guessing its the carb but I can't really find any information on servicing it beyond setting the mixture.

Can they be rebuilt?
What about the electronic functions? anyway to test them or rebuild them?

I'm a fuel injection person, so if I don't get it running 100% by October it'll be converted to EFI. I'd prefer to leave it carbed for the time being just to keep things simple but I'm worried that in winter temps it'll just flood.

 

Yeah I had one rebuilt & I watched
Primary shaft bushing needs rebuilding/replacement
Tough torx screws down there
Rest is "easy"
Your mixture set up, I'm sure can be tested but probably better to just price new.
IF ya got ORIGINAL CARB ON THERE THAT IS TO YOUR ADVANTAGE FOR RETENTION.
Owned my carb on Blazer since 1989.
Verticle numbers on side of carb is what is needed for rebuild kit. All of them.
Never had mine in truly cold weather but had the choke working well.
Hope these are clues.
Biggest clue is also all new vacuum hoses.
And those two choke pot pull offs, expensive.
Take very detailed pictures before ya remove those hoses......or have a very good detailed diagram or have smog routing map.

 

rebuilt mine and will never rebuilt another that has sat for 3 years without putting a new float and crap. float disintagrated after a week. so I bought a better remaned.



on a side note to whoever was talkin bout putting a spacer. I am 1 peice away.......and thats the studs.....for referance a/z's and discounts and everyone elses stucds are the wrong pitch for the intake.......I am thinking I might need to order them from mr gasket

 

I'll do a search for Jack Hillco in Long beach CA area.
He's the best with nuts & bolts, next to ARP.
Let me know how the idea works in the end, please.
What carb are you running on the stock intake?
I knew those studs would be the stumbling block!

 

www.hillcofasteners.com

Here ya go
Please let me know what ya find out
I know Jack Hillco from the Long Beach Swap Meet.
You call, ask specifically for him and tell him someone from Long Beach Swap meet recommended ya.
You'll get what ya need.
He has everything, in any grade specs ya seek.
His business is AMAZING!
Every swap meet I every needed something at (I'd bring the strangest nuts or bolt requests, old cars ya know...) I never walked away empty handed & with more knowledge.
PS Got Headers?
Grade 8, Stainless steel 12 point ARP bolts are the best!! They never loosen.

 

Thanks for the reply. I went through the engine bay a couple of times and fixed all the vacuum lines. Half of them were broken, the other half were hooked up wrong. After reconnecting the EGR valve, and routing the rest of the vacuum per the diagram now the check engine light doesn't come on and it runs better. It was still running rich so I replaced the coolant temp sensor with a late model sensor and replaced the pigtail. Also I pulled the vacuum operated A/C solenoid and rigged a throttle adjustment screw so I could bump the idle up a bit. Now its running pretty good but the fuel pump is dumping fuel everywhere.

Oh well, 2/3rds of the fun of an old junk car is replacing everything.

 

I ALWAYS hated the fuel pump set up on these 2.8....
And mine always leaked or was just plain ol messy & greasy.
That's why I am happier with the electric fuel pump set up I have in my Blazer now (as I use a 3.4 block & those come with no provisions for fuel pumps).

 

you're not kidding this 2.8 is a greasy mess. Pretty much the entire underside of the car back to the lower control arms is covered in grease, the oil pan has more than a 1/4" of buildup, etc.

I traded my way into a non-computer controlled carb for this car, but I have to figure out if the stock distributor will work with the carb hookups disconnected or if it'll require the matching vacuum advance distributor.

 

Your last sentence is correct.
Matching components.
Seek more S-10 Blazer stuff.