Man, I'm burned out. I've got a full 3100 disassembled here, and a full 2.8 disassembled, as well. DOwn to the blocks. I'm going to do some comparing of the blocks - I'm curious to see what it might take, to retrofit a FWD block into the RWD chassis. Mainly, for the improved oiling/roller cam setup

I also get to *finally* start work on the Aluminum FWD head custom lower intake manifold.

I'm working constantly, but once school starts on Jan 9th, I'll be posting lots of pics.

Just a little update, that's all. Machine work on the RWD block starts on Jan 1st, to prep for the 15psi motor

Hey Alan - you're going down, buddy. You're going down hard.

 

you gonna fab/weld up some rwd mount bosses on th efwd block?

 

are u still gonna make a custom intake plenum like alans with throttle body?

 

good freakin work mr. doward!

are you staying with a 2.8 block?

 

Things need for FWD block to be used on a RWD application:

- Custom left engine mount. Depending on the chassis a custom or modified right mount may be needed, due to the layout being the same between FWD and RWD, just in a slightly different location, moved by exactly the distance that is between the 4 bolt bosses relative front to rear.
- Drill and tap the starter bolt holes on the opposite side of the engine.
- Use a bolt and nut, or weld up and drill/tap the lower tranny to engine bolt hole on the passenger side.
- In the case of the genIII blocks, a custom or modified oil pan will be needed to clear the crossmember. GenII blocks can be used with a RWD pan.
- To use the RWD timing cover on the FWD block, the water pump bypass port needs to be blocked and/or re-routed. This is a modification to the timing cover, not the block. The FWD block does not have this port, and will leave the port completly exposed.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head.

Doward, I just got my TIG welder, so now I too can build that custom lower. :P

Looks like a race might be on.

I think I have one advantage though, I've already had a turbocharged aluminium headed 660 running in my RWD vehicle. :P

 

LOL, true - we need all three get together and make a night of old fashioned smack-talking, tire-burning, V6 racing

I'm not totally decided which way to go - I think for now, I'm going to stay iron headed RWD flat-tappet block, simply because I want a decent stock-replacement intake out there, and I'm currently working on that

On the FWD/RWD block conversion, I'm thinking use the stock bolt locations on the FWD block, with custom block mounts to go to the stock clamshell mounts on the frame

 

ahhhhh, sounds sooooooooooooo familiar

 

That's basically what I was saying, though making a completly new mount would be best, unless that's what you mean, and just retain the factory 'rubber' mount that is on the frame.

The funny thing is, that same mount is the one that I make for J-bodies and early L-bodies, for installing a genIII 660 in those vehicles.

Yeah Doward, you should stay Iron headed, that's best.......... :P

*snickers to self* Muahaha, Doward doesn't know what he's losing out on, I'm going to smoke him, hands down, no conte...... damnit, am I typing outloud again? I hate it when I do that.

Oh and your choice, the Jimmy or wait a bit longer and race my next project, yes it'll still be a 660, don't worry.

 

lol, whichever you have running in mid-February. That's the timeframe I'm looking at, so far

 

LOL, neither most likely.

The Truck it is though, since I don't even have the chassis for the other yet, still looking for something good.

 

I think I'm winning the race on the custom base for the aluminum heads on a rwd, distributor motor...fabrication is over half done...welding needs to be done. Oops...now who's thinking outloud??

Doward, I'm not goin down....let alone goin down hard to you!! lol. (mods, we're just joking and we both know it )

 

psh... headers, 1.6 full rollers, custom intake, T61, and 14psi say otherwise

Of course, I'll probably just destroy the tranny on the launch

 

add a couple more psi and aluminum heads, high stall converter, and custom built 700r4 and slicks to that list....then my favor looks good!

 

aluminum heads shmaluminum heads. Iron is stronger

 

and about 24 pounds heavier, unassembled.

 

yeah, and they use a wtf smaller nut on there, too... I'll measure it out tomorrow, tho

 

man i thought that they could ban IP adresses.

 

You can't ban them all or risk bootin legit users.
plus there are a milllion and 1 free proxy servers out there to hide your real ID.

 

I think it'd be harder to ban people from the ECM forums. hackhackhack...

 

for those of you that missed it, a little bird brought a piece of information that is good news . . . take a look at the supersix catalogue, they ave the iron heads flowing 240/202 cfm. now im not sure what the flow rates are on the stock aluminums, but thats good news for those of us who have to stay smog legal(or close to it).

 

Yeah, very nice - but $1350 seems a bit steep to me...

 

While i agree about $1350 being steep, v8 guys lay down 2k for a set of heads no problem, probably for a lower % gain than we would get from these(more hp by number though). its a little sketchier because these arent new heads, just massive porting, but hey, when you have to pass smog it gets a lot more reasonable . . . cause otherwise im looking at $$ spent swapping over to a complete(and OBDII) late model 3400 and getting that through a smog referee. at that point its an engine swap, and if im gonna swap in an engine . . . well its not gonna be an N/A v6, thats for sure.

and almost double the flow over stock? wow. i still want to see the complete flow numbers, but for a start thats a neat trick.

 

How much power do you think one of our V6's could pick up from that head deal?? Seeing how it is almost double the flow..

 

Depends on many other variables, like Static Compression ratio, tuning, etc.

 

thats what im thinking . . . swapping to those heads(the supersix) will probably yield more power gains than every other possible N/A mod for our(iron-head) motors combined.

 

Driveshaft is out, tranny is drained, I picked up 2 new motor mounts (might as well, right?) and a new timing chain (no way will I put new rings in with out it!!).

Yeah, shaft is out, tranny drained, turbo out, exhaust out, intake piping out, starter is out.

Tomorrow morning I need to pick up more Oil Dry and then pull out the 2 motor mounts thru-bolts, take the transmission and distributor out, and pull the hood off. Then the motor will come out nice and easy (hopefully)

Anyways, that's tonight's updates. I'm pulling the motor out, to put a fresher bottom end in! I fried the rings on #2 and #4, thanks to the MAF being pegged, me not adding more fuel, and running lean because I got stupid and jacked it from 7 to 10psi. +3psi + 0 fuel = lean = detonation = screwed top ring + mass blowby

I learned that lesson the hard way... new setup will run much better, still stock parts

 

Hmmm...that gives me a neat, cheap engine safety device idea: a comparator which will alert the driver and/or dump in X amount of fuel if a certain threshold is passed. Stuff like this is out now, yes, but this would be a $10 "fix". Would definitely screw up fuel metering, but it's WAY better than frying an engine. If it dumps so much fuel that it makes the engine run badly, that'd be a good thing because it would get your attention. Just set it near the upper window of whatever sensor you're monitoring...

 

Might not be a bad idea... or just switch to the '749 ECM - it allows for up to 15psi of boost

 

Motor mount bolts are out, intake off, distributor is out, wiring is disconnected, A/C compressor is unbolted, and the p/s pump needs to be unbolted. Then I'm going to slide the transmission out from the bellhousing back (after unbolting the shifter from above, lowering the transmission, and unbolting the tq arm mount)

Then I'm going to pull the motor out.

I wish my digital camera hadn't died. I've got an engine in my dining room, one in the car, and one block on my rear porch going together right now

Today's goal as of 9:44am EST - Have engine pulled, disassembled, and have new motor assembled and ready to go in tomorrow

 

About 11a, wife decided (for me ) that I should take a break, and we should go out to lunch. Ended up catching a late breakfast instead, came back, and now -

- Radiator drained
- Radiator/Fan motor assembly removed
- Heater hoses removed


Still working on that stupid power steering bracket. There's ONE bolt, that I can't seem to reach, that bolts into the side of the block. Aggrevating.

That's the 12:12p report :P

*edit*

1:47p, the transmission is out, tq arm mount off, and now comes the hood

 

Damn Doward your tearin that car apart... How much power should those heads give us on a stock engine?

 

On a totally stock motor? Not much..

On a stock motor, with headers, intake, and cam? Probably 30-40hp, of the flow numbers are correct

 

4:25pm and the motor is OUT. Had to swing out to Autozone and get an engine lift chain, lol. Now to drain the oil, clean, and begin disassembly.

FYI everyone, this will give all of us a great idea of how the bottom end handled 10-12psi of mis-managed boost.

*EDIT*

6:10pm, and it's friggen' dark. What a pile of suck.

Exhaust manifolds are off, bellhousing/clutch assembly off, flywheel off.

Going to see if I can rig up some lighting

 

Whatd you think a boosted, cammed, full exhaust and custom plenum engine should pick up?

 

~alot

Depends on how cammed, how boosted?

9:30pm, I'm calling it a night Pushrods are removed, intake is removed (obviously)

Guys, this cam still looks BRAND FREAKING NEW. Definetely happy with it, considering it's got what... 23k miles on it?

 

242/248 .608/.612 Im trying to find a cam around that... Prolly with 10psi

 

I doubt our stock heads will flow at all at those lift figures - so yeah, a solid port and polish with flow numbers like SuperSix is throwing around, would be VERY worthwhile!!

Head gaskets look AWESOME. Heads look great, as well! Very pleased with what I'm seeing so far!!

 

Pistons are all out, and they've held up great - except #4. The 2nd ring was evidently too thick, or got too hot - it swelled and broke part of the piston away from itself.

So now I've got some decisions to make. This was supposed to be just to 'freshen' the motor up, and see how it's withstood turbocharging...

Just to reiterate - the failure of the #4 piston is NOT due to the turbo - it is due to the ring swelling. Probably because I got stupid with it

 

Ok, so the block is at the machine shop, getting bored .020" oversized for the Clevite (beefy!) pistons I had here... Also getting new cam bearings installed, oil galleys cleaned...

Ordering a piston ring filing tool tomorrow, as well. The machinist agreed with me - when I went lean, I got the rings too hot, and they over-expanded - breaking the 2nd ring land out.