Crank, cam, and piston are all in the block now. It's just a matter of waiting for the rockers and pushrods. Apperantly, the cam I got is already advanced 4 degrees, and I had already set up the timing gear for 2, but the shop that did the machine work said it would be fine since it will settle back 2 degrees anyway (hence the 2* advance in the first place)

Which makes me wonder, what should I set the base timing at when I first run this thing?

I didn't go with the p&p, besides from what I gather reading other posts, there's better heads out there to put on if I decide to get crazy someday with it.

The roller tip rockers are about the only mod I'm doing I guess. That and the super-duper crank balancing so it lasts 300k. Also the headers and everything else I have on the current engine.

I'm hesitating on the tranny though. I wanted to get it overhauled so I'd have a new engine and new tranny, but it'll cost like $1300 give or take a hundred. Right now it works fine. I may just change the throttle valve and give it a fluid change and see how it goes.

I'm thinking about whether to get new injectors too, clean the ones I have, or just stick them back in.

 

Sorry but, I just don't get it why many of you on this V6 board do not understand the importance of the runner volume and cumbustion chamber shape in making power. Head are where you first spend your money. They alone are what allow you to make HP. Put whatever cam you want in there but it the heads do not breathe then its a waste of time.

Just food for thought before you entirely get the motor finished and installed. Save your time and effort of installing it right now until you get some "GOOD" benchflow ported heads- Not some homemade porting job.

 

I just don't feel like spending another $600 or whatever it costs, when I plan on adding a 4thgen TA or formula to my collection in the near to not-too-distant future.

 

i dont have an automatic so i dont know first hand, but from what ive read, if you dont get it rebuilt, you may have to get a TA or formula in the near future. a 3.4 will smoke a stock v6 trans quick. read up on it, and be prepared

 

Yeah, I've read about it. It just frustrates me because an overhaul for that trans costs more than what the 3.4 engine rebuild has cost (so far anyway, every other day I need to get some more parts)

I'm glad I don't plan on ever selling this car, because I'm suddenly working my way into joining the ranks of people who have "twice what the car is worth" sunk into it.

Heck, in the 8 years I've owned it, I don't think I've spent more than a grand on it. Not counting gas of course.

 

i found that it was more than 3 times cheaper to swap a manual in . . . not much more work than just a regular tranny swap, just a few holes in the firewall and like 6 wires that you have to splice.

 

Well, I didn't have the heads polished, but I did do some some grinding and matched the intake ports to the gaskets.

 

Can you do me a favor since the block isnt in the car... Can you see if there is a place to put the knock sensor on the left side of the block.

I dont like how close the starter is to the knock sensor.

 

how come?

 

I'm not sure what size hole you're looking for, so here's a pic of the left side.

 

Is the stock location for the knock sendsor on the 2.8/3.1 the same as where it would go on the 3.4?

 

Thanks Cool! That bolt on the back side might work.

As for the 2.8/3.1/3.4 thing. The location on the 3.4 is close, but not the same. on the 3.4, its closer to the starter.. or should I say on mine, its basically behind the started and the clip for it hits the selnoid. Makes for installing the starter a pita.

 

oh that's good to know and be prepared for. Do you have the stock starter/solenoid from the 3.1 in there too? Does anyone else have this problem?


Also, coolrimsatleast, sorry to ask but can you post a picture of the right side?

 

here you go.

 

IIRC, I have a 3.1 starter and selnoid.

I am the first to ever comment on this, and its been in my car 2+ years like this, so its not a major issue. Just something I've never liked.

Appears holes are same thread. So I could drain the fluid, move sensor over, extend wire, and it should work fine.

Hum

Thanks for the pictures, it majorly helped my thoughts. Time to do some other inspecting nobody can help me with because they dont have my car.

 

I also gotta clean the block a little better too so it looks all pretty for when I add the headers and take a pic to post. (I forgot to get header bolts Friday )

Also doing work on the nova so I can drive that while the firebird is down.

 

thanks for the picture coolrims! I think I see the hole that Dale is talking about, and it does look closer to the starter than I would like it to be too. Still, let us know about your updates!

 

Only update for now is pondering what little things I could still install on the 3.4 while I work on the nova so I can drive it. (I'm not expecting to get the swap done over a weekend, plus I may still have the tranny rebuilt). Just about everything I can think of installing now, I have to remove from the 2.8 first.

Anyway, I'm off now to get header bolts, return 3.4 oil filter and get correct 2.8 filter, new shocks for the nova, air filter for the GMC, cash for the cool western 5slot rims and tires I just got for the nova, and beer and more fireworks for tomorrow.

 

not sure what all you have aside from whats posted in here but, 180 tstat, any ignition upgrade, UD pulley(s), and delete anything you can ie. a/c, smog, heater lines or at least t/b bypass.