i have a 92 camaro with 3.1L the car starts runs for about 30 seconds to a minute then dies...or when i get it started and give it gas it wil rev a few times then die. car has done the same thingboth befor and after replacing many parts.

the following parts are all new
fuel pump
fuel pump relay
fuel pump fuse
(fuel)oil pressue cut out
dist. module
dist. cap
dist. rotor
spark plugs
spark plug wires
map sensor (did a diognastics test and showed was bad)
egr valve block off plate (the egr valve was blowing exhaust under the hood)

what could be causing this problem?

 

what's your idle like?

 

well when startes with a cold engine it kicks into warm up and the idle is high then slows down then the car dies...after a bit of start and start with some reving the engine is warm it idles smooth at about 1K

 

sounds like it would be a fuel issue....but I'm leaning towards transmission...

 

iac working?

 

i thought about that but im leaning towards it being a fuel problem im wondering if the fuel pressure regulator is going bad

 

hookup a fuel pressure guage & monitor it while driving

 

make sure the IAC valve and orifice is clean of any leftovers.

 

lol while i drive goodone the most ive been able to move the car b4 it died was 4 feet
----------
ill check the aic when i have time which wont prob be till wednesday

 

Since you just did the pump, definately put a fuel pressure gauge on it; with the key "on" but engine "off" (right where all the lights on the dashboard come on), you should have 40 psi.

How's the ignition timing? Sounds like you replaced a lot of stuff... maybe the timing's thrown off. Should be 10 degrees advanced- but since you can't keep the car running to check it, bring the #1 cylinder (which is the front PASSENGER SIDE cylinder) up to TDC of compression.

Then pull the dist cap off and see where the rotor's pointing. The rotor should be aimed between the #1 and #2 terminal of the distributor cap, and be closer to the #1 cylinder's terminal. That would be "close" to 10 degrees advanced, enough to get the car started/running and throw a timing light on it. If the rotor's pointing directly at the #1 terminal, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt and spin the dizzy slightly counter-clockwise.

 

Fuel filter?

RBob.

 

yes filter was replaced just forgot to list it

 

DIZZY(IGNITION MODULE)may be bad

 

first take care of any vacuum leaks (not because they are causing the problem, but so the next steps will work)

then set your TPS voltage and reset your IAC, make sure it's working

THEN check your fuel pressure, then your ICM (ignition control module, they often still work on startup and then die with heat, i.e. after warm up)

then check your timing with the EST unplugged, make sure it's right and it stays steady.. then plug in your EST and make sure it advances smoothly with more throttle, no jumping around

that way you do it in the easiest order, where one won't adversely affect the next thing you do, and this is all the free and easy stuff to check

i bet it's diagnosed by the time (or before) this procedure is over

 

thanks for the tips ill try them asap...

how should i go about vacuum leeks if i cant keep the car running long enough to do the old carb cleaner trick(what is normal vacuum for these engines

 

well i checked the map the tps the iac the icm the o2 sensors and cleaned where needed.also showing 9* advance.

it still wont stay running...it starts and runs for all of 30 seconds (has a great smooth idle then dies) ... sometimes ill be able to start it and rev the engine a little then it dies...and still sometimes ill start it then hit the gas peddle and it dies as soon as i hit the peddle.

im looking for any more ideas...

 

how did you go about testing the IAC?

 

i got the car running and driving for a day...then it started to mess up again..i checked there is power going to the pump at the connector but the pump isnt pumping... so im going to drop the tank this weekend