cold air intake?
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Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 1
From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
The fact of the matter is that you're never going to really get any gains out of a custom intake when you're already running an intake that is designed to flow enough air to feed a 350, something that is litterally twice the size of our motors. Don't kid your self. You'll just be sucking in hot engine bay air anyway, which defeats any miniscule gains that you'll see by changing the intake routing.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 1
From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
I fail to understand how dryer ducting can look awsome, that's why they try to hide it as much as possible in houses.
Also, functionality? How are you measuring that? On a real dyno, or via butt-dyno?
Sucking in hot engine bay air will give you 0 gains over external air, which the stock air box sucks in. Unless you are moving more air than a 350, there are no true gains for a "warm air intake" on our cars. Use some common sense and think that through. If it were truly that easy to get gains, don't you think the factory would have designed it that way???
Bottom line, major work needs to be done before your stock intake becomes the bottle neck for power.
Also, functionality? How are you measuring that? On a real dyno, or via butt-dyno?
Sucking in hot engine bay air will give you 0 gains over external air, which the stock air box sucks in. Unless you are moving more air than a 350, there are no true gains for a "warm air intake" on our cars. Use some common sense and think that through. If it were truly that easy to get gains, don't you think the factory would have designed it that way???
Bottom line, major work needs to be done before your stock intake becomes the bottle neck for power.
ok ok easy on the resentment, you dont have to try and make me feal like an moron. i felt that it worked better on the highway. but hey i also run a honda other than the z so im all about the cold air intake. but it did make a 6 hp gain on my civic but it is also an import.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 1
From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
ok ok easy on the resentment, you dont have to try and make me feal like an moron. i felt that it worked better on the highway. but hey i also run a honda other than the z so im all about the cold air intake. but it did make a 6 hp gain on my civic but it is also an import.
Now, on the civic, did you put it on an actuall dyno? Where did that number come from? Honda is actually one of the few automakers that doesn't suck fender air , the y suck it right next to the radiator in most cases, which is almost as bad as engine bay air anyway.
All I'm saying is that with proper modifications and work done to the rest of the engine MIGHT require a new intake setup, but on a stock motor, you get the same intake components as the v8's on f-bodies, so there is little chance of actually seeing any real gains on a dyno, it's all in people's head.
ok i ee were you are going wiht that, i understand what you mean. and the numbers were produced on the dyno yes. 164 to ruffly 170. lol but it is no longer the same set up, turbo took cair of that, now i have a hard time keeping up with my z lol. impressive lil engines chucking out 243 lol. but, there is no replacement for displacement lol
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 10,536
Likes: 205
From: NYC / Jersey
Car: 1990 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Turbo 305 w/MS2
Transmission: 700R4
Originally Posted by TRICK_Z28
...but, there is no replacement for displacement.
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
From: Tenino, Washington
Car: 89 f-bird and some others
Engine: 3.4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I did the ("increased warm air/soon to be cooler air once I isolate that corner where the K&N filter is at from the hot engine bay air") intake, and it worked for me.
I have more torque and power than I used to, and get around 360-380 miles a tank on a 192k engine with an exhaust manifold leak and no cruise control.
Don't have any dyno numbers though.
I also have some MSD stuff, underdrive pulley, cheap-crap synthetic oil, and 2.5in exhaust. Soon to have headers.
I have more torque and power than I used to, and get around 360-380 miles a tank on a 192k engine with an exhaust manifold leak and no cruise control.
Don't have any dyno numbers though.
I also have some MSD stuff, underdrive pulley, cheap-crap synthetic oil, and 2.5in exhaust. Soon to have headers.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: 5 Speed Manual
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Peg Leg
I was thinking about doing a CAI. The benifit being that the air would flow easier into the engine, but it would still be warm air. One of the first visual mods I did for my car was a Powerbuldge hood, so I was thinking about making that functional, and having true (kinda) cowl induction. Now that would be worth doing
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