Well i thought I had an oil pump issue but I would guess thats fine. When the engine is cranking it builds up a lil above 40 and then when the car cranks it drops to 0. Well that should be due to the fact that the engine will turn over like it wants to start but immediately dies. Now I have adjusted the timing and advanced the wires to see if that was the issue , but no matter what it will start and run as long as I give it gas. As soon as I take my foot off the pedal it dies. So no idle what so ever.

I tell you it was running fine and I started messing with it and all h*** has broken loose. I have learned my lesson this time so when I get it right thats it. I'm gonna ride till I die.

 

all connectors verified .......... conected? yeah, i know it sounds cheesey

 

check the connectors on top of the ignition coil.

 

it'll run only if you give it gas? Sounds like a IAC problem?

 

OK! Here are a few pictures of the engine. I have the valve covers off b/c I just cannot adjust those darn valves right so I was gonna do it like I do my 78. Run the engine and adjust them that way. I have all the vac lines that run to the valve covers plugged. Found the vac line diagram on the bottom of the hood and man did I have that all screwed up. So I'll replace the iac and see what happens then. My dad seems to think I have the valves over adjusted so I'll just back off on those and give it a shot to see what happens.

Thanks for the feedback and hopefully I can get it runnin soon. I really need to drive it again. The ladies at my job love it!!!!! V6 or not!!!!!!!!!!!

 

For got the pictures:

 

you're gonna have a big oily mess by the time you get done. The oil squirts out of the pushrods like no one's business. Just follow the procedure in the haynes manual to the letter and you can't go wrong. I have followed that exact procedure at least 3 times on my car and on about 13 or 14 other V6 f-bodies and never had to pull the valve covers back off. You just have to be very patient and take your time. Rush it and you'll overtighten them, collapse a lifter and have get it all screwed up. Just tighten it down slowly as you get close to 0 lash. Also, make sure you follow the tightening sequnce to the letter. Be 100% of which valve you're tightening(exhaust or intake and which cylinder.)

 

wait, your valve covers are off but your intake is still on??? how did you do that? Doesn;t the intake have to come off to take off the covers?

 

Thats what I have previously done but being that I have always done 8's this way I just feel more comfortable this way. I don't know just a pep of mines. Also if you look closely at the rockarms I have these plugs on there that are supposed to keep the oil fropm squirting every where. They don't stop it all but the keep it to a minimum.

 

Set the lifters by the book, they might not end up perfect, but they'll be close. If they're not set right then your valve timing is going to be all screwed up and it's not going to run, much less idle.

Just a suggestion, but don't throw parts at a problem that you don't fully understand. You may spend $20 on an IAC you don't need. Usually they can be removed, cleaned with carb cleaner (spray out the IAC passages in the TB while you're in there), and reinstalled. You can bypass the IAC by turning the minimum air adjustment screw to hold the throttle blades open to allow enough air to substain idle, however I doubt that's your problem. It sounds like you've got everything torn apart and no frame of reference to put it back together.

My best suggestion would be to find some good reference materials like a Helm/GM service manual, or at least the green covered Chiltons Total Car Care manual for your car, and start reading. Next to that, your best bet would be to find someone more knowledgable to assist you. Otherwise you're just beating a dead horse trying to fix something you don't understand, and you could potentially cause damage to your engine trying to resolve the problem on your own.