Hey guys i got a 91 firebid and well i know this isnt right my idle is hrmmm gabout 500 or 600 rpm even in drive dunno whats going on but it dont stall out or anything but i was just seeing if that was right i have never had something that idled that low....

 

I just responded to your faulty oil pressure thread, and now that I just read this thread as well... it sounds as if, perhaps, somebody was playing around with the needles inside of their cluster box????

Seriously though, although she's embellishing 600-RPM in park/neutral (you were referring to park/neutral when idling, right)... how does she feel? Does she sound like she wants to stall at any particular time?

 

no the sound resembles a harley really that is the best thing i can think of atm when they are stopped that is just idling.

 

If the only problem is a low idle, try adjusting the Idle Air Control (IAC) first. What I'd do, is, remove the IAC sensor from the throttle body, and give it a thorough cleaning inside by the pintle. Use plenty of carb cleaner, and an old toothbrush to remove the unwanted carbon. Be gentle with the stock gasket, as you'll need to re-use it for now...

Aftwerward, search for a technical article explaining how to re-set your idle. Search for the keywords of: ALDL, IAC, paperclip, throttle body. If that doesn't help, we'll move on to the next possibility...

 

ok guess a little off subjuct but i have my car in the garage atm ok the freeze plug under the drivers side under the header came out they want 200 to fix that and (i didnt know this) but the header on the passanger side the mech "said" that there was two bolts broke off in the block and has to drill them out (its leaking) wants 300 to fix i need to know if the Header is a MUST RIGHT NOW i mean if it can wait 2-4weeks then it would be ok but is the pice to much for what they are fixing???? THANKS

 

Broken exhaust manifold bolts are common. I wouldn't take his word for it though. Double check the area in which he is referring to, as the head of the bolt might be broken off, but the "stem" could still be a great deal out of the head. You can easily tell by LOOKING yourself...

If the stems are still prevalent, remove the exhaust manifold yourself, and spray a good amount of WD-40 in where the broken bolt stems meets the head. Once you allow it to penetrate, lock the stem with a GOOD vice, attatch an extension to the vice (for leverage), and remove the stems yourself....

As for the freezeplug, again, I would do it myself, but being that you might be new to this, have him take care of that (and only that) for you. Remember, he's in business tomake money, and will be looking for many things that need fixing. The broken exhaust manifold bolts, although causing and exhaust leak, can wait for the time being. But the freeze plug, yes, you'll want to have that taken care of as soon as possible...

 

yeah its just two bolts in the pasenger side header HE said was broke off i know its leaking but hrmmm ok. not the freeze plug i "tried" to fix it witht he rubber one BUT it blew out so i may just let him fix that...

 

Clean the sh*t out of the throttle body as well. When those air bleed passages get blocked, the car will not idle right. I bet once you clean the TB and IAC, it will idle much better.

 

yeah im going to o that once it gets out of the shop

 

Your idle only needs to be as fast as the engine needs to be running to not stall. The idle is controlled entirely by the computer and the IAC. Typically if the IAC is bad or plugged (not too uncommon due to pcv breather in front of throttle body and blowby) it won't idle at all, or it will stall coming to abrupt stops. It wouldn't hurt to clean the IAC and the passages in the throttle body, but as long as your engine stays running it's not a serious issue. If the problem is roughness of the engine at idle, it may be another issue altogether, such as fuel delivery or ignition.

 

OK guys im back well on i have relaced everyone except the TPS MAP and IAC sensors other then everything from the fuel filter on has been replaced. still haveing a ruff idle and i dont have power above 4k rpm nothing no missing just no power any sugestions,

 

Ruff Idle is usually EGR related...

 

new EGR system installed nothing still same

 

by the way, broken bolts are easy to get out... get something called an "ease-out" ... any good mechanic store should know what you are talking about... and get the square head, not the round!

 

well one of the bolts are broke clean off and another on i can get it out b/c its still sticking out of the block.