Hi,

can I reuse the old oilpump screen and pipe to put it on my new pump?
The GM Manual says, that the screen and pipe should always be replaced if they`ve been removed, because if they would be reused there could be some air leaks and loss of oil pressure? Has anyone experiences in that issue?

Greetings from Germany!
Flo

 

I'm actually just expieranceing thing. We reused it with my new motor, and now my oil pressure is a little low, and we're guessing it's because it's loose. Save yourself the trouble and just buy a new oilpump with the pickup / screen already on it.

I'd like to ask seperately. Is it possible to replace the oil pump without pulling the motor?

 

The problem was that I've ordered a new oil pump for my 3.4 which I'm rebuilding on an engine-stand, but it came without the pipe and screen.
Yesterday evening I ordered a new screen and pipe. It should arrive tommorow.
Doesn't a new pipe fit very well in the new oil pump?
I can imagine that an old pipe diameter is a tiny little bit smaller and so it's not fitting well.
But do I really have to braze/weld the new pipe on the oil pump housing or whatever to make it stick to the housing? If I drive in the new pipe, it should fit well, wouldn`t it?
Moreover I want to put some sealer on the pipe so that there will be 100% no air leaks and full oil pressure. But couldn`t the sealer become loosely over the years and then stop up the oil ducts? Can I use a little bit of black RTV for that?

Greetings
Flo

 

Not sure if they have it in Germany, but what I wished I would've done was attach it to the oil pump with JB weld. That'd never come loose, keep it sealed and on there strong. JB Weld is a very strong epoxy deisgned for metals. With a new one and some form of sealing, you should be set. I'd be a little weary of black RTV because it might break down and float around your pan later on.

 

the new screen/pipe will fit in tight and not need to be sealed or welded, but i do advise to atleast putting a tack on it so the pickup cannot rotate.

the pickup should be 1/8th inch off the bottom of the pan.

when ever i do a motor i fully tig weld the pickup onto the pump

 

@ noahTHEpurdy

Is this the right one?


I could get a tube at ebay-Germany for about 9$. It seems to be the right "Glue"/sealer for that issue.....


@ daves12secV6

Sorry, because I'm German and can't find the right translation for "Tack", do you mean you weld one small point on the tube and the pump so that the tube is not able to rotate? What is the "tig" in "tig welding"?

Greetings from Germany!
Flo

 

yes i put one lil weld point on it so it cant rotate. tig = tungsten inert gas
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_tungsten_arc_welding

 

@ daves12secV6

OK, thanks. I'll think of welding a tack on it. But wouldn't JB Weld also do a good job for holding it in place?

 

u could use jb weld i guess but i wouldnt use it,
i just think jb weld should never be used on anything in a car,specially inside an engine unless it is for an emergency repair

 

OK, but I've read in another thread that maximum care should be taken by putting the new pump in a bench-vise for installing the screen, cause it's very sensitive. You can easily damage the pump although it's only gently camped in.... Is that right?

What about welding the tack on the pump? I also read that the regulator valve coul be stuck because of the heat which occurs if the point is welded.....

What should I do now to make sure that the pump itself and it's inner parts are not disturbed?

 

I reused my old pickup screen. Just put the new oil pump in the oven to heat it up and expand the metal, then pulled it out and immediately slid the pickup tube in place. Pump metal cooled and shrunk down to a tight fit. 35,xxx miles later and no problems.

 

You guys are making a much bigger deal out of this than it really is.

Do NOT use any "sealer" on the joint between the pick-up tube and teh pump, this is a press fit, and a very tight one at that, whihc will seal itself.

I have re-used pick-up tubes in the past and have had no problems doing so. If you don't have to hammer the tube into the pump then it should be replaced with new. You will have to make tool for doing this however, a repair manual should be able to show you what it needs to look like.

Once it's in there, and in the proper oreientation, juat put a tack weld or two to hold the pick-up tube to the oil pump body, this isn't a necessary step, but is an old racer trick to ensure that it will not fall out. Look at the oil pump from the factory no tack weld, and it stayed in. This is just extra insurance.

Since you have a new tube the sealing ability is a definat non-issue, but I would still put a tack on it, because I'm **** like that.

 

Hi,

I assembled the new pickup-tube with the pump on friday.
The tube fits very tight and the screen is 99% almost in the right angle like the old screen.
I tack welded the tube to the housing with 4 tacks just for insurance .
Has anyone good tricks for priming the pump and building up oil pressure before I start the engine the first time?
I thought of a drill with an extension and a 8mm-hex-socket on it instead of the dizzy. Is that ok?


Greetings from Germany!
Flo

 

That's what I did the first time, works very well actually. Just make sure you wrap a rag around the extension at the hole in the block, or you will get oil spraying out of that hole, due to one of the lifter galleys intersecting the dizzy hole.

I have since taken an old dizzy, cut the head off welded a socket to the shaft (so that the 1/4" drive is left exposed, IIRC 5/16" socket, because I had a few "extras") and then turned the cam shaft gears off bronze gear to allow the shaft to actually spin. This plugs the hole and keeps the priming shaft in proper alignment to the oil pump.

 

Didn't I return your PM? Yes it can, I did a writeup on how to pull the pan with the motor still in the car...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/4...e-oil-pan.html