90 RS, 2.8l

K, so here's the deal. Awhile back ago I was having problems with starting my car. There would be times where it would start up, I go to the store (10 min drive), come back out and then it wouldn't start. Turn the key and it wouldnt turn. Tried that a couple of times then stopped and I would sit there for 10mins or so, turn the key then it would start up.

I took the starter out and noticed that there was a hole in the cylinder where you hook up the wires. So I went out and bought a new starter installed it and haven't had a problem since starting the car up.

And now it begins again. Started on Tuesday. Went to work, lunch and the car sat there from 1245 - 415. Go out and it did what I described above. Turned the key couple times, nothing, waited 10mins and then it started.

What in the effin world could this problem be? Thanks.

 

Sounds like a VATS problem....

 

I have the same problem with my 89 trans am,.... It sounds like the VATS which is the security system..... does your car have VATS? You might start there...

 

If by VATS you mean the chip in the key then yes.

I did have a problem with the ignition switch awhile back ago. Took it out and noticed that the wire was bad so my dad replaced it with new wires and put shrink tubing on it. It worked.

What I don't get tho is how (if VATS is the chip in the key) after putting in a new starter the problem went away for I guess a month n a half by now.

 

if you do a search on here for the vats you may get better info... but I have a car that the vats has been bypassed and it has its bouts that it wont start til I leave it for about 10 minutes then retry to start...the vats system reads the resistance in the chip as I will call it in the key and if it isnt right for some reason it won t start and then has to time out before starting... there are far more intelligent people on here than me but that is my experience with the vats... sometimes will go 4 months or more without the problem ...then again could be days

 

In my opinion these chips are dumb.

Doesn't the wear and tear on the chip change the resistance?

 

I really cant answer that but I think that everything wears out after time and use..... might be the key...... might not.... an experienced mechanic should know....
----------
do a search under vats..... and see what you find out

 

This problem that your initially referring to (ignition switch wise), was the car not starting during this issue as well (before your father fixed it)? By the way, did your father solder the connections, or did he just crimp connect them, then shrink wrap? It's possible they came loose. Does the security light come on, then go off, when you have the key in the "on" position, or does it stay on constantly.....?

 

Yea we soldered the connections, then shrink wrapped.

When I have problems starting the car the Security light does stay on. Would that indicate that the key isn't making good connection with the contacts in the ignition?

 

Sounds like the problem my car is having, to the T. I really wish I knew how to program the eprom so I could tell it not to look for the resistor in the key.

 

There's a tutorial somewhere on the site on how to bypass the VATS. It seems like a very simple thing to do from what I remember reading. You need to know what the resistance your key is, buy a resistor with that value, cut 2 wires, solder the resistor and that will bypass the check in the ignition.

That is something I've considered doing but I have held back due to the area I live in. I've already had my Camaro stolen and later found in an industrial area stripped of everything I had in there. So later on in the week I'll get my pops to help me out with soldering wires and re-golding the contacts.

Here's the tutorial -> https://www.thirdgen.org/vats

 

 

Nope. Auto.