ok, I have GM tune-up but I asked them to put in my denso iridium plugs. I have a new stock 195 thermo and I run 89 octane. My car smells like it's running way too rich but I really don't know why that could be. Any ideas?

 

So you went for a tuneup and now it runs rich? Did they replace the o2 sensor?

 

I had a similar experience. Running rich, mileage below 20mpg, and an occasional EGR code. I found out that I had a pair of leaky injectors.

 

1. Most cars will smell like they are running rich at idle because, for the most part, they ARE. The engine runs so slow that the ECM has to add extra fuel to keep the engine running (I could be wrong about this and if I am, someone correct me plz). There IS a reason why carbs have a separate idle ENRICHMENT circuit, you know...

2. Get rid of those overpriced crap plugs and put in plain-jane AC/Delco non-platinum plugs. Your car will be happier about it. I once ran $3 a piece Bosch Platinum +2 plugs in my 2.8 (when I had it), and it ran WORSE than with the old, junk, fouled out AC/Delco plugs. I ONLY run AC/Delco plugs if I can get them for whatever car I have at the time. Heck, I even made the mistake last month of getting a set of (hold on now, don't flame me) AutoLite plugs because they were the cheapest and that's what the guy who was working on my car said the engine needed (new plugs among a bunch of other things, I now know he is an ). Needless to say, I had those plugs in for 2 weeks, and now they are in the packaging for my old R43TSK plugs, waiting to be thrown out (unless you want them, of course), because they are crap as well.

 

No they didn't replace the o2 sensor... could be that. But no codes at all. Could it be timing? IF all else fails I will check out the ac delco plugs and see what's up. - Nate P.S. My car is fuel injected... so it shouldn't run rich at idle right?

 

Doesn't matter whether the engine has a carb or F/I. Either way, at idle, the ECM completely ignores the O2 sensor and makes adjustments based on the MAP, CTS, and the RPM signal from the distributor, just to keep the engine running. I just added the tidbit about the carbs for reference. It doesn't matter what year the car is or how well it runs. At idle, most cars will smell the same, like they are running slightly rich, because they are.

 

Is it running well? Does it stall at idle? We're trying to find out if there is an actual problem.

 

actually no, it's not running well at all. It vibrates the crap out of the dashboard, seats and steering wheel. It lopes like it has a clogged air filter but it doesn't. It runs pretty rough and very rich - I mean it smells like gasoline is comeing out of the tail pipe sometimes - but asometimes it's not that bad. When It's cold it isn't perfect but it's quieter and doesn't vibrate as much. Also doesn't smell as bad. I was poking around today and it looks like the idle screw is all the way in. And my idle usually is about 400 RPM. Shouldn't it be like really high? - - This week I'm trying to find the time to put on a jet fan switch and 180 stant thermo. Maybe if I keep it cooler it'll run better. Right now it stay at the third line - what is that like 230?

 

It should be idling much higher, about 650-750rpm when warmed up. Before you try modifying the way it runs you should diagnose what's wrong with it. If the engine doesn't reach operating temp (about 190-210 on most models) certain functions won't come into normal operation.

The IAC should be able to compensate for the position of the throttle stop (i.e. idle screw), so the problem lies elsewhere, but if you feel it needs to be corrected resetting the throttle is simple. Cut a strip of paper an inch wide and insert it inbetween the throttle blade and body, then tighten the throttle stop screw until it just touches the throttle lever- no more, no less. Remove the paper (duh) and reset the TV cable.

Are you getting any error codes (check engine light on)?

 

I only get a c.e.l. after an hour or so of highway driving and it goes off when I slow down. I'll reset the TB today. Thanks for the useful info! How do you reset the TV cable? I saw it under there while changing the oil. It looks like a pretty simple thing. BTW - During highway driving - even when the CEL comes on - All guages read normal.

Edit: I'm making an appt this week to have the car diagnosed. Is a computerized tune-up the same thing as hooking the car up to a diagnostic computer? I'm not sure what to ask for when I go there. And if I'm not specific they'll check everything and charge me a million bucks lol

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2

https://www.thirdgen.org/detent


While you are doing this, remove and clean the IAC. Good luck.

 

Cancel your appointment there's no 'tune-up' involved, they just plug a diagnostic tool into the aldl and retrieve the codes which you can do yourself. Retrieving the codes is a simple proceedure, just put a paperclip between aldl pins a & b, turn the key to the on position (don't start the car) wait for the CES light to start blinking and count the number of flashes. First it will display "flash-pause-flash-flash" 3 times signifying code 12- meaning diagnostics are working. Then it will display the error codes, record the flashes and tell us what you get.

 

Also places like Advanced Auto parts will check them for free with a reader wich does the same thing as the wire.

 

Thanks for all the great info and links. It's awsome to have a forum where people care about your car. When making my appt today I mentioned that I had the iridium plugs in there and the guy said that was my problem. So I never made the appt. And then when I went to buy the ac delco's at autozone the guy behind the desk said it was my problem also. It's dark now and my wife is having surgery tomorrow - so I'll take care of the TV and IAC as soon as I can. I'll let you guys know what code it spits out as well - nate

 

o, so I ran the diagnostic and here's what I came up with - "flash-pause-flash-flash" 3 times and then "flash-pause-flash-pause-flash" and then nothing. Did I do this wrong? I still havn't gotten around to doing the new spark plugs but I started to do the 180 thermo today only to find that I didn't have pliars big enough to take off the coolant hose. But when I had my air intake off I noticed something was broken. From the air hose to the passanger valve cover there was a hose connected to a grommet. The grommet was completly torn in two. So I pulled it off and I'm going to get a new one tomorrw. Could this be causing my erratic idle and engine vibration? BTW - adjusted TB and viola! It doesn't smell nearly as rich!

 

You've been letting excess air into the engine through that hole in the elbow. Keep in mind that you MUST get the one that fits the SBC V8 because that is all you can get, and even that one doesn't fit right...

 

'1-1-1' has no meaning, and it should flash the codes 3 times then stop. The correct way is to connect aldl pins a and b together with a paperclip, then turn the ignition to the on position (but don't start the engine) and it should flash the codes.
Most likely the air leak is what's causing your problems, but after you replace the grommet erase the ECM's error codes by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds. Then start it up, take it for a short drive and check for error codes again.

 

they have it at advance auto for my car for 2.50 - is that not the right one?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=738&PTSet=A

are you saying that the elbow is the reason for all my problems? That has got to be the quickest fix ever!

 

Yep, that's the one. Most likely that's what's causing your problem, but check for codes again after erasing it to make sure.

 

Alright! It's running great! I did the grommit and the new spark plugs. The denso's were completly black! Fantastic, it runs as smooth as a new car for less than 20 bucks. Thanks all - Nate

 

Does your car still vibrate

 

Just a very tiny bit, almost not noticable. Why?

 

because mine dose and when I have my ac on it does it even worse so i am trying to see if I am having the same problem as you and if so , so I can fix it

 

My car started runing el crapo again today. I started poking around and guess what? The thicker plastic hose going from the top of the throttle body, that snakes under the TB and then over the passenger valve cover, then becoming rubber and leading to the coal can, was melted in half in three places! I fabbed a new one using a piece of the melted one as an adapter to the TB and new goodyear vacuum line. I went over the TB instead of under and used zip ties to make sure the new all-rubber hose didn't get near anything hot enough to melt it. My car is still ideling crappy, tries to die at stp lights and now I have a CEL. Obviously the last time I tried to get my codes I screwed it up. So I went to autozone and my car has to be 96 or newer?! They said napa does older cars so I'll await thier opening tomorrow... But I bet you anything I just need a new IAC, I'll get a TPS too to be safe. My fan switch has been burned out for awhile, so that could be the reason for the CEL too. I'll keep you posted!