micali

iTrader: (1)

I finally got to drive the car for a few miles and didn't have any major problems. I did notice a few things that I am wondering about.

1. is low oil pressure. I am running 20/50. It is high at start but as I get driving it gets lower and lower. After it warms up, at idle it sits above the red and when I drive it is around the 40psi. Concerns? It kinda seems to move some times and not others could the sensor be bad? The motor doesn't start ticking or anything, other than the lifter that needs adjusted.

2. The SES light came on and it says it is Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve. From what I've read it most likely is the EGR. Can I do anything to clean it without replacing it? What if I don't replace it for a bit what could happen? Will it dramaticly effect the mpg?
I had let it sit for about 15 min and went out to start it up and teh light didn't come back on. Weird.

nothing else to really talk about. Thanks for all your guys help with getting it going.

One more thing, I checkedd the tranny fluid and it was low so I filled it up and the fluid looked brownish. It didn't smell burnt but who knows. I probably should replace the fluid with the filter.

2_point8_boy

1. The low pressure is probably a sensor going bad. How high above the red does it sit? at the first line? barely above the red? where?

2. The EGR code is sensed by the vacuum sensor next to the egr valve, you'll see the vacuum line that comes from the intake and goes to the solenoid, it then leaves the solenoid and tees off to the sensor and the EGR valve itself. The only thing the sensor knows is if the solenoid is letting vacuum through. Check all the vacuum lines to make sure they are hooked up according to your underhood label. if they are hooked up and the electrical connections to the solenoid/sensor are good, then the solenoid is most likely bad and will need to be replaced. The unit is about $200 new. The code always resets itself when you turn the key off so the light won't be on, but the next time you do something where EGR is commanded on, the light will return.

3. Trans fluid should be bright red, brown fluid is a sign of fluid deterioration. I'd replace the filter and refill, but you're only draining about 4 qts of a 15qt transmission system. What I do suggest is that you find a shop that has a BG transmission flush machine. I know you hate taking your vehicle to a shop, but a good transmission flush that removes 99% of the old fluid is really the only way to go and prolong the overall life of your transmisson.

I only recommend shops that use BG service machines like my shop because of how they work. They don't have any internal pumps and work solely off the vehicles transmission upmp. We remove a transmission cooler line, route the fluid through the machine and the pressure of the old fluid forces new fluid from a bladder in the machine into the transmission system. This is a 100% way not to ruin a valve body because of over-pressurization. I've done over 1000 flushes at my shop and have not had a single problem with it. HIGHLY recommended.

go to www.bgfindashop.com and enter your zip code to find a shop in your area that uses these products.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I do my own transmission flushes in my driveway with NO special equipment. Just a 6' length of transmission cooler hose and a hose clamp. I take the car/truck/van when it is cold. Start it up and put it into gear. Wait about 30 seconds. THen kill the engine. Get under the hood and feel of the cooler lines. The warmer of the two lines will be the fluid going into the trans cooler. Disconnect that line and slip the cooler hose over it. Clamp the hose in place. I pull the transmission dipstick and start opening bottles of fluid. I usually leave the bottles open in the box within reach. I then direct the outlet of the hose into my drain pan. Now start the vehicle. The dirty fluid will be poured out of the cooler hose. You then keep putting fresh fluid in through the dipstick/filler tube. It only takes a few minutes to run through about 15 qts of fluid. Once the fluid starts coming out of the cooler hose red, shut off the engine. Reconnect the cooler line. Start the engine. Check for leaks. Check the fluid level. Top-off as needed. Fluid exchange is now done. I have done this too many times to count, without ANY problems.

micali

iTrader: (1)

For the most part it sits right above the red but then jumps to around 40psi +/-.

I've heard guys completely taking the egr off their car. They say it make the motor run a little rich. NO, no or could I do it?

It's not that I hate taking it to a shop it's because they cost so much and I don't have that kind of money. I don't use CC so that's out of the question.

From what I can tell the motor only has 78,000 miles on it. It could be 178,000 I really don't know.

2.8RS

iTrader: (5)

Taking off the EGR won't hurt the car at all. I have mine off and its like it isn't there. The only thing is that the SES light pops on occassionally.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Why are you running 20/50 oil? That seems very thick, even in our state.

micali

iTrader: (1)

I figured since it was an older motor the thicker oil might help protect the engine better. My theroy. I wonder if I'll have any oil pressure reading if I change it?

We'll after driving it home today the oil pressure at idle is in the red. It gets better as you drive. I'd say it sits in the red about halfway in the middle. But it fluctuates, a couple of times it could be at the very edge of the red. If the oil pump was going out wouldn't the motor make a lot of extra noises and the motor overheat? None of that is happening. If I don't turn the fans on it goes up but quickly declines in temp within a few min of the fan running.

The SES light didn't come on for the EGR so I might be ok for awhile. What did you use to cap off the ports on the intake and ex. manifold? Did you remove the EGR sensor?

Should I not drive the car with the tranny fluid brown? I'd hate to mess it up anymore. Almost everytime I have to shut the car off in reverse and then put into park for it to actually go into park. It could be the counsole getting in the way. I had the entire inteior out of the cat to clean it so I could have, possibly messed with the connections, but I doubt it.
I also notice that when I take off I have this minor vibration that can be felt throughout the car. I think it might be coming from the tranny, not sure though. It doesn't get worse but it does get better when it is in overdrive. It just fells smoother.

I think this car is just a peice. It's probably not worth the time and money.

When would I know that I need to adjust the IAC or TPS. It kinda has a rough idle but that could be the fact that I haven't timed it yet. It is just done by ear.

Thanks so much guys, you really help me so much with this car.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

The SES not coming on doesn't mean the egr's not a problem, you should still test it. 20w50 is too thick for your motor, it's designed to run on 10w30 and that's what it needs. Not sure if that's what's causing your guage to be off, but it's still the wrong viscosity. Many people never change the trans fluid the entire time they own a car and get away with it- not that you should, but you can get away with it until you can get it changed. The fact that it won't go into park when you turn it off means that the selector cable or parking brake is probably adjusted incorrectly, which needs to be corrected. You shouldn't need to adjust the TPS or the IAC, but there's a thread called 'IAC and TPS Adjustment' that details how to if you feel you should.

micali

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I'll change the oil and see what happens. If I have to change a sensor what will I need to change. Is there one or two sensors? I called autozone and they ahve an oil pressure switch. Is this the one I would need that effects the oil gauge? I would assume it is the two terminal connection sensor?

Does anyone know how to adjust the cable?

Dale

iTrader: (12)

10w30 for winter, 10w40 for june to sept around here. 20w50 is just to much. I am sure thats most of your oil problem. There is only one oil pressure gauge, its about 20 bux.

brown trans fluid is bad. But at that point, if you change it you may do more damage then good. A rebuild is 1000+ around here.

Selector cable sounds like something is binding. There is a cable that goes from the colum to the selector. Take a look at it (I never adjusted it).

You can adjust the TPS, it should read .55v at idle. It usually throws a code if its out of wack. IAC just needs to make sure the tip and the hole it goes in is clean. If you clean it, MAKE SURE you dont spin the tip, push in or pull out.

micali

iTrader: (1)

We'll why would it be bad to change the old fluid? Theres no way I'm getting it rebuilt. I'll find a used one or sell it. It's not worth it.
Why didn't 2.8 boy say it was a bad thing, he is a mechanic? I'm not saying your wrong just would like to know what to do.
If it goes then I'll put in the V8.

Where is the oil switch located on the 2.8?

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

Some believe that draining it could cause contaminants to come loose and wreak havoc on your tranny, but I disagree. Have the fluid changed using a BG machine, which is by far the best method. The oil switch is next to the oil filter, there's two versions of it. There's the smaller flying-saucer shaped one which is just to signal that there is or isn't oil pressure, and there's the larger bell-shaped one which signals the actual pressure to the guage. If I remember correctly you want to replace the one on the elbow fitting, not the one screwed into the oil filter adapter.

micali

iTrader: (1)

IF ithe sensor is by the oil filter it sounds like fun to have to change it.

The oil pressure did about the same today. The tranny will shift into overdrive every now and then at a lower speed. I wonder if the fluid could have anything to do with this?

How can I tell if I need a new oil pump and how hard is it to replace with the motor in the car? I bet it's a chore.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Sensor is actually easy with a pair of chanellocks. IIRC they also make a tool for it.

Oil pump, I jacked my motor all the way up, wedged boards in the motor mount area. Then dropped the the y-pipe, then pan. Was a bit interesting, but dont have to pull it out. If you have a hoist, Id almost suggest just pulling it.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

Replacing the sensor's not too hard, you just have to be careful taking it off because the nut is part of the sensor body. After changing the oil get an oil pressure guage (the one in your car may be off) and measure the pressure while cranking and at 2000rpm. Should be about 10psi cranking, 40psi at 2000rpm. If it's off more than 10 psi replace the pump. Replacing the pump's not too hard either, just drain the oil, drop the oil pan (you may need to raise the engine to do so), take off the pump, put the new one on and bolt everything back together.

Oops- Dale got to it while I was typing.

micali

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, What about wear on the bearings? Should I even worry about that. so when you changed it did the oil pressure return?
How would I hook up any other oil pressure guage?
Is the sensor on the back of the block?

I do have an engine hoist and it might not be that hard to just pull the motor. If I did that would you sugest replacing the bearings? can I buy just the bearings and seals? I don't have a shop and all this will be outside on a gravel drive.

Thanks for the help.
what is IIRC?
You guys make it so much easier on my nerves with all the suggestions and advise.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

Before you test the oil pressure change to 10w30, pressure should return to normal. You need to buy an oil pressure guage (not the type in your dash, it's a tool) from an auto store and tap into an oil line in the block. Since you'll be removing the old sensor anyway just hook the guage there and test it. You'll need to disconnect quite a bit to get the engine out, but it makes certain repairs much easier. If you do remove it you might as well check the bearings. Look for scoring or scratches on the bearing surface, and check the clearance using a strip of plastiguage. If they look bad or are out of spec replace them. You can buy the bearings and a gasket kit separately, no need to get a full rebuild kit, although it's not a bad idea. You should get a chilton's manual if you don't already have one, they have detailed repair proceedures and the torq specs you'll need to know during reassembly. Just make sure to keep internal parts CLEAN.

micali

iTrader: (1)

I haven't changed the oil yet but I did change the oil switch and the pressure is the same. Wouldn't the thicker oil make the oil pressure go up? So why/how changing the oil to 10w 40 going to change or make the pressure better? I really don't want to change the oil pump.

The pressure is good when I start it up and until I drive it for about 10 mins then at idle the oil pressure falls into the red. The oil guage flux's with the tach, which I am sure it is supposed to do. I am going to buy a cheap oil guage and see what happens.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

oil pressure will flux with the rpm of the motor, that part is good.

Thicker oil lowers your oil pressure. Dunno why, but it just does.

micali

iTrader: (1)

Uh, we'll I'll change the oil to 10w40 and see what happens.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

1. Change your oil before you do anything else.
2. There may actually be 2 oil pressure units, one for the gauge and the other for the fuel pump cutoff circuit. The sender has a single wire while the switch has 2. Otherwise, if you have the 3 wire unit, you just remove that and go.
3. I don't know who said that a new EVRV is $200, but that might be a dealer price. I paid $45 a couple years ago when mine was bad and I haven't had to worry about it since. Let's put it this way. Start your car when cold, and push up on the diaphragm in the EGR valve. If it moves and the engine stumbles (and may even die), then you have clean EGR passages. This does NOT mean that the EGR diaphragm doesn't have a hole in it, good vacuum source, etc. Pull the lower line from the EVRV and see if it has vacuum with the throttle cracked with the engine running (it uses a vacuum source that only has vacuum with the throttle plate open). If not, the line is plugged. If it does, then I'd look at the EVRV's tee line running between the EGR feed line and the actual sensor to see if it is plugged (and the whole upper line while you're at it, just to be safe). If it is clear, then your EVRV is screwed up and you need a new one.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

The 3.1 electronic EGR's are 200 bux. The vac controlled ones are 30-40 yes.

micali

iTrader: (1)

I changed the oil and after the motor warmed up, at idle, I have 0 psi or lower. Uh, thicker oil makes the pressure go up? We'll with 20 50 I had oil pressure at idle.
I will see if AZ has a guage to check the oil pressure. Then if that is bad then I'll change the dang pump.

I put that seafoam in the gas and oil and it ran smoother from what I noticed.

micali

iTrader: (1)

ok, bought a oil pressure tester from HF. I hooked it up, let the moror run for about 25min all the while getting the engine to operating temp. At park I have 15-16 psi and in drive I have 11-10psi. At 2000 rpm the pressure was 40+. Is that ok or am I at the end of the pumps life? I just wanted to confirm the earlier reply to this post about pressure.

I didn't drive it but I figured if the engine is up to temp then that should be ok.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

That's exactly where the pump should be. Either your guage or the sending unit is way off. Grab a couple from the junkyard and swap 'em out.

micali

iTrader: (1)

I've swapped the sending unit with a new one and the pressure was the same. It must be the guage in the car.
Was that a proper amount of time for the motor running to get the best reading?

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

Operating temp is best. Usually about 200*.

micali

iTrader: (1)

It got up to 220+ before I kicked the fans on to make sure the motor was warm.

micali

iTrader: (1)

Here are my latest reults.

I drove the car to work and back, I pulled the oil pressure unit out and put in my oil tester guage and at idle I was 9psi and at 2000rpms I was at 35psi. Is that bad? Should I replace the pump? If not I'm going to put in a thicker oil to help it a bit.

The tranny shifts better everyday I drive it. It know doesn't shift into OD on it's own but it does have a vibration.

micali

iTrader: (1)

I've been reading that for every 1000rpm should be 10psi. IF that is the case I should be ok.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

You need to test the oil pressure while cranking, not idle. Cranking should be 10psi, at 2000rpm it should be 40 psi. As long as it's within +/- 5 psi it should be fine.

micali

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I can understand testing the psi at cranking. I can take the main plug for the spark off and crank the motor over but how can I test the 2000 rpm if the motor is not running?

I'm confused
Thanks for all your input!

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

sorry, not trying to be rude, it's just obvious you're not a mechanic. What you need to do is disconnect the plug wire between the dist. and the coil, test the oil psi cranking, then reconnect it, start 'er up and hold it at 2000rpm while someone else reads the oil psi.

micali

iTrader: (1)

warm and driving @ 2000 rpms it was at 35 psi. I'll check it at cranking and see.

micali

iTrader: (1)

cranking was 0psi. That seems odd to me that while cranking the motor over I should have 10psi. That seems like a lot.

So from what your saying the oil pump is shot. Then the motor is also.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

The oil pump is most likely toast. The engine might be fine, need to crack it open to be sure.