This is my list of recently changed items.

PCV valve
Carbon canister filter
Air filter
Transmission filter
Transmission fluid
Full synthetic oil
high mileage oil filter
fuel filter
spark plugs (ac delco)
spark plug wires
rotor
dizzy cap
idle air control valve
throttle position sensor
fuel injector o-rings
head gasket
intake gasket
oxygen sensor
power brake booster
back fuel hoses (rubber ones about 6 inches) under tank
checked tire pressure
new brake pads and calipers
coolant temp sensor
valve seals(premium)
flushed radiator system
new coolant
cleaned / inspected for damage (engine)
also it is timed to 10 BTC (timing light)
Idle screw is a bit ****ed my g.fs 87 camaro is like 6 threads mine is about 10 and if it gets set lower it idles at about 400-500 in park which isn't right (yes, i unpluged the EST, IAC, 30 secs, Drive then adjust to 500 RPM's once in closed loop)

Ok, now that the list is through i listened for clicks through my injectors they are all clicking fine, it'll idle high then shoots down a bit like it should on start up sounds ok, but i do get an intermittent code 33&34 once in awhile and i struggle up hills, plus i noticed my volts always changes as i start the car from being 15 to 13 and back and forth sometimes 12, i noticed my pick up coil (stator) has some rust on it and is missing a part of that cloth around the wire, but before i did a head job on it i got up hills without gunning it, unless im imaging things when it comes to hills, and when i tried to do the hanyes manual ignition coil test i didn't get **** for ohms, but maybe im doing it wrong (doubtful) but then why would i get spark at all? plus i hear a rattle almost everytime i press the pedal to the metal and when i exited my car went on the passenger side it got louder, suspect is converter? it sure was loud as if it was clogged up a bit (want a video for you true mechanics? i'll upload one asap.)

Idk, i mean all that work and im only getting 12-13 geez it's killin my wallet any advise?

If things don't shape up they're be another f-body in the boneyard.

 

Try checking the MAP sensor and recheck all your vacuum hoses. Most of my problems stemed from these two areas.

 

if you dont find any vacuum leaks ..and your ride has close to ..or over 100K injectors and timing chain need attention.I dont want to say they are junk..maybe worked fine when new..but most of us have some miles on our engines.if you have any slop in the chain it will waste more fuel..valves out of time make an engine a gas hog.I would suggest anyone with some miles on their ride to replace the cam/lifters/injectors/and timing chain.

 

Ok, so it's really not worth it eh? Injectors, Timing Chain, Lifters, Cam what about 800 bucks?

But why would that explain my all of a sudden low power, it's not LOW LOW it just has a bit struggle up hills etc, when before i did a head job i got decent speed up hills and a bit more power.

Idk what to do, probably better of sendin her to the bone, i'm getting a new antique car a 1982 Buick Skyhawk with 20,000 miles on it ha that's antique for ya 4 cylinder, 2b carb...sweettttttt

 

I do my own work so I cannot comment on the 800 price?.So unless you live in CA and dont do your own work you might pay that much.If your CAT is plugged slightly it can create problems under load or a exhaust leak playing games with the O2..sorry I cant be much help..hard to dianose problems on a computer.I can only give you suggestions?Mine had a ticking noise while idling and it was broken exhaust manifold bolts...plus there was no gaskets when I did the repair?I been working on mine for 2 days going on 3 ..cam lifter.ported heads..fiero covers. have to go back in and readjust valves.did them wrong again.

 

Did you check vacuum with a gauge yet? The car would benefit from injectors at over 100k. You may be able to pull a set from the junkyard, send them away to have them cleaned/tested, and install them when they come back. I paid $40 for a fuel rail and injectors that I actually just stuck in the car. Best part is, someone already pulled them out and put them under the rear hatch, since they took the intake manifold it looked like.

 

sounds like the cat is dead. I had similar issue in my old 95 Blazer, crappier milage & wouldn't even get up a hill towing a2wheel car dolly. cat guts cracked & were clogging up. I hollowed it out & it ran better, even passed **** e-check w/it hollow. Oh yeah, it picked up it's lost power.

 

You can check for a bad cat a couple ways. Hook up a vacuum gauge and hold rpms at like 1500 rpms...hold it steady. If vacuum falls off, bad cat. You can also hit it w/ a rubber hammer and if it rattles your cat is waisted. Or just pull your exhaust apart and look inside, but I can imagine that being a pain for an old bird. It may be bad, since running rich for long periods of time can kill a cat-creates a ton of heat inside it which will melt the insides

 

Now makes me wonder about my rich problems and mileage. Timing chain and injectors and new exhaust. I'll try it . thanks

 

I'll handle all sugestions tommorow morning, but like i said i do always hear a big like whroommmm (not normal) from the cat side of the car, thanks for suggestions, no1 thinks it could be from bad compression?
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Btw, Exhaust Manifold gaskets are not stock in these birds that's why u didn't find any traces of gaskets.

And im talking 800 for my own repairs. figure 100 each injector (new) 200 for the cat, and what 50 for the timing chain so about 850? -_- ouch.

 

Have you checked your EGR Valve?

 

i have looked at it and did the "test", but my egr valve does look shot.

 

a hundred bucks for each injector??.Are they made of Gold??..I can see maybe 200 for the cat a little high and 50 for the chain but the injectors??..
I dont have a bird either ..and I was assuming they didnt put some exhaust gaskets on there for either cost or it wasnt a concern to them..high priced engineers.I didnt have one underneath the EGR tower to manifold either.You must live in CA?

 

Bad compression could definetly cause bad mileage, but it wouldn't be my first guess. If power feels low or you have a miss check compression. That could put that to bed. Also, bad compression could kill your cat. Think about a dead cylinder, with raw fuel going into the exhaust due to the poor burn, then cat gets hot because it is trying to convert a ton of fuel to water and co2. How old is your o2 sensor, that can give you conditions similar to what you got as well. When your sitting at a stop light with the car warm, does it run rough or surge?

 

I have found rebuilt injectors for $39.79 with a $10 core (so it costs you $29.79) each.
A direct fit replacement cat for $97.79
And a timing chain set for $24.99

My number add up to $301.52. I dont know where you got your prices from.

About your compression...have you checked it? What are the numbers for each cylinder? With an older engine you might have some compression issues, but youll have to check those out to be sure.

Also, how many miles are on your car. I have always heard that synthetic oil is not recommended for any engine that has high mileage. Depending on how many miles your engine has, this might be a factor as well.

 

vacuum gauge will tell you a lot. The bad timing chain can be noted with a timing light as well there mark will wander

 

My car has 193,000 miles on it, the timing mark doesnt wonder the only crap part is the timing bolt i can get it exactly on ten and then i tighten the nut and then it's on 11 so i left it on 11 is that bad bad?

When i bought the car the owner always put good syntethic oil in it, and it's ran good oil wise (about 70 PSI) oil pressure, but something weird i noticed not sure if it's normal like i said above my volts sometimes drop from 15 to 12-13 and my oil will go down to 40-50 PSI weird huh?

The car has been previously honed and rebuilt from a shop, when i removed the heads i seen the X hatch marks on the cylinder walls, i also have a reciept from the previous owner.

Something i do know is the pick-up coil is rusty dusty and i heard that'll cause some problems going to get around that this week, but it wories me that my ignition coil isn't testing out right like the haynes manual states.

It's 134 for the cat, and rebuild injectors? which site u going to or store hook me up !

I'll compression test it asap.

 

If your engine has been rebuilt, than synthetic oil should be ok. The site I got those parts from was RockAuto.com Its an excellent site. And it was $29.79 for each rebuilt injector...a lot better than $100 each.

 

how do you know your cat and injectors are bad? There are various ways to test each before you start throwing money/parts at the car. IMO best place for injectors and stupid sensors is junkyard=free that way you can throw parts at it without spending gobs of cash. I would try a test pipe in place of the cat and see if that helps, + cleaned jy injectors and id replace that pickup coil too if its rusty. Also u don't have to loosen the bolt on the distributor, if u find a happy medium where it won't move but you can still move it by hand with a little effort then u dont have to worry about tightening the bolt when u time. good luck

 

I took off my dizzy, cleaned all the rust out of there, put on a new pick up coil, greased my ignition module, new cap/rotor, timed it to 10* BTC.

Replaced side terminals and put on new top terms, with a new battery.

took apart my air box system, and cleaned all the wires leading to that junktion box (plastic lookin thing).

Adjusted Idle, and TPS (Also slapped on my new TPS) My idle when cold sits at about 500 and when warm 750, it's a bit shaky when at 500 this is with handheld tach the one in the car blows.

Also inspected vacuum hoses once again, and now i have this annoying tick on the right side on the engine, it's not a valve (stethoscope test) not an injector (screwdriver test) maybe my PCV is the wrong one for my car i bought it new about 8 weeks ago.

I'll do mostly anything to improve my mileage, am i able to gut my cat without it popping? I did take my Converter off you can see about a quarter size hole that's about it, bad? and if i gut it (temp i don't have 100-200 as of now in about 2 weeks) will it pop and be horrible?

 

O2 Sensor is brand new about 1 week old, when at a light with the car completely warm (open or closed forgot which one lol loop) my tach does budge it stays steady at 750.

Also it is an O.E. Bosch o2 sensor.

Im doubting the timing chain, my timing stays steady right on the mark, it's at 10-11 since when i tighten the damn bolt it tends to move a degree.

But if i plow uphill i lose alot of power, and my cat sounds like its a ticking valve under the right passenger side.

 

the ticking sounds like lifters... more noticable after a 10-15 min drive then idle? i replaced mine ticking went away

 

Hollowed cat, floored the car on the highway got about up to 65 and the it eventually picks up bad compression correct? floor it up mid-level hills get up to about 45-55 and it will eventually pick up.

But my hollowed cat brought my mileage up a bit maybe 16 MPG, man imagine if i found the culprit for the low power!