First, hello everyone. This is my first post on here but I have been searching for some answers on here lately. I found the same problem discussed in one thread on Firebird Nation, but it was never resolved and then actually directed him here back in 2005. I did not find a thread in the same time frame and cannot find any with a similar problem.

I have had my 1987 Firebird 2.8L MPFI since 1997. It was my first "non-shared car" . I have had it since and the bodywork was refeshed in 1999. It spent some time garaged for college and military time, but thanks to my grandfather and Dad, was started every 2 weeks, etc. I finally broke down last year and got the AC converted and recharged. Right after, the MAF sensor went - that was a big bill. It is has been running good since then, but this year it is doing something strange.

If I stop to get gas or turn off the car after it gets hot, it will not start until it totally cools off. It will turn over, but not fire or even attempt to fire. Good thing I had a magazine in the car since I spent 2 hours at the gas station! I replicated this problem at home, pulled a plug and had no spark. I could smell gas I thought.

I have a Chilton's service manual, and I am trying to test the iginiton coil. I read on here, it most likely is that or the ignition module. However, I think I am testing it wrong. I am getting no ohms when it is cold or hot. The book says to unhook the negative battery cable, the ignition coil wire and the harness wire. That is what I did and checked the three places it said - but I am missing something?

Any advice on testing the coil or what you all think the problem is would be great. I am trying to fix this myself to save some money.

Thanks.

 

autozone can check it for free.

 

Thanks for the reply. I have heard that, but what I am trying to do is test it when I know the car starts (cold) and then hot when all it is doing is cranking. It will be hard to do this at Autozone so I was trying to learn myself.

 

Have them keep running the test on the module for a bit until it warms up. My first module was good cold but failed when hot (and surprisingly ran, strangely enough). They ran the test about four times, just to be sure it was good. You can get one with a Lifetime warranty from Advance (trust me, it will come in handy to have this one rather than to have to shell out $50 a year for the thing).

:edit: BTW, the DIY test on the newer-style module is a royal pain to get right. It's easier to have someone professionally test it.

 

Thanks Maverick. One question on your reply - when you said module, are you referring to the ignition coil part or the ignition module that the book says is under the distributor cap? Thanks.

 

The ICM (ignition control module) is inside the distributor... The big black thing bolted to the bottom plate. Your 87, like mine, does not have the EST module the MAP sensor equipped V8s have for controlling the timing.

If you don't mind getting hot hands, you can drive the car to AutoZone and remove the module for them to test (that way, it's guaranteed to be hot when they test it). The bolts holding the module on are 7/32, or whatever the metric equivalent is (same size as the hex part of the cap screws).

 

I Believe it is an 7-8MM or 7/32 For Sure.

Ignition Modules tend to be good for quite awhile, but If it was exposed on the bottom to heat without the compound protecting it it will cause internal defects which is most likely what your experiencing now, I would risk it and order a module after going to autozone, purchase it on Rockauto.com as it is probably cheapier, ships about 2 days (worst case you got yourself a new module and don't have to worry about it for sometime also don't forget the protective compound of dilectric grease!)

 

Went through 3 ICM's in 3 months, get the lifetime warranty

 

...Plus they generally have them in stock because so many GM vehicles have distributor ignition and use the modules (and you don't have to pay shipping from Advance).

BTW, 7mm is 9/32". That's what all of the interior screws are (except the 7/32 ones on the dash pad and holding the instrument cluster into the dash shell). I think the metric equivalent is 5.5mm, but don't hold me to it.

:edit: Another good thing to do is to go to an electronics store and pick up some heat sink grease for computer chips and similar stuff, and stuff it in a place where you know where it is for later. Also, don't forget to clean up the base of the distributor really good after you remove the dead module, as you need a good clean surface for the grease to dissipate the module's heat through.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions and advice. I picked up an ignition control module with a lifetime warranty yesterday ($40 at AutoZone). It came with the grease. I am going to install it tonight and will let you all know how it goes!!

 

I think the problem is fixed!! I replaced the module last night and drove it around the neighborhood, shut if off for a few minutes and it re-started!! I still have to try it on longer drives/ more heat, but I think it is good.

The only problem I ran into when replacing the module is the plastic connector from the pickup coil fell apart when I touched it - it was a sticky, gummy mess of soft plastic. I cleaned the two leads that it held really good and covered the connections to the module with dielectric grease (another packet - I did use the supplied grease on the underside of the module).

Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it. It is great to be able to get it running again for $40 in these times.

 

Tell me about it... neither of my terminals stays in the plastic connector and makes it a real PITA when something is wrong and you have to test stuff. Might want to write down the order of the terminals somewhere so you won't get them mixed up in the future in case something happens.