Hi I do not usually post but I must finally ask for help. I absolutely LOVE two cars, Pontiac Firebirds and Datsun/Nissan Z cars. I am a actually a computer geek (computer/network building/modification, electronics fabrication, information security research, etc..) who has recently gotten into cars a few years ago. Anyway I purchased my Firebird about two years ago for $1000.00. It is an '89 2.8l MAF, 5 speed WCT5, 188,000 miles.

Here is what I am getting at: of course I have had tons of small problems here and there, but I have had one big one. The car keeps missing while driving, sometimes all the time and sometimes only after the vehicle reaches operating temperature.

Here is the long list of work that I have done;
replaced clutch and flywheel,
drained and refilled transmission and rear differential,
drained and replaced coolant,
replaced timing chain and camshaft sprocket,
fixed multiple vacum leaks,
cleaned IAC,
seafoam in intake, crankcase, and gas tank,
oil, filter, air filter, serpentine belt, PCV valve,
plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil,
some body work,
gutted catalytic converter,
EGR blockoff,
O2 sensor,
rear main oil seal,
the plugs all looked normal when replaced.

I think that is it... The last thing I replaced was the coil, cap and rotor about a week ago. It ran perfect for the first time ever for the last week, no missing, it revved normally, had full power. But the last two days it has slowly began to miss again and today became just as bad as before. When I replaced the rotor it was black and charred. So I took the new one off to see and it was not charred. I have also been getting OBD1 codes indicating that the MAF is reading incorrectly.


So I just want to see if anyone has any suggestions. I think that it is either the MAF or the ignition control module or some other electrical component, like the alternator.

* by the way =] I replaced the clutch with a broken ankle(one 3in plate and 8 screws)....fun.

 

Alternator is not likely the problem. Havent seen a module cause your symptoms but it can be checked. Your nearest Autozone should have the equipment to test it. They can test your alternator at the same time. Is the problem an occasional miss or does the engine feel like its really stumbling? Are you sure you got all the vacum leaks?

 

if its throwing codes for the MAF your best starting place is the MAF....thats why the OBD1 module was set up...to give mechanics(and ppl) a good starting place to start diagnosing the car...im not trying to be an ***...like i say to everyone i hate to see ppl spend unnecessary money and throw parts at there cars...just my .02 cents

 

-> Maf. <-

And what plugs are you using?

 

Thanks for the replies. It really feels like it is stumbling, not always though. I would have replaced the MAF earlier but I learned how to pull the codes recently. I will buy a MAF and have the module and alternator tested and post how it goes. Man I can't remember what plugs I am using but they have been replaced and the car was stumbling before I put new ones in. I do have a vacum tester I will need to make sure that there are not any more vacum leaks.

 

You're fine as long as they're not bosch, LOL.

 

Hey I put the new MAF in tonight and it seems to work great. We will see if it lasts, seems good though. Thanks for the comments and help.

All in all I think I have at least 70-75 hours into this car, and besides the $1000 it cost probably $500+ in parts. Eh it is worth it, the experience of working on the car, and driving it.

 

Just went to auto zone and had my obd1 checked they couldnt do with theres so they gave me a key pin to jump the far upper right 2 pins and i had gotten code 32 i also have an 89 bird v6 2.8

 

So bosch is no good for these birds what would be your best suggestion. I had put bosch plugs and wires on mine just to have a quick fix of sollution because it was actually stalling at the lights but found it was the exhaust leak that i had please help running out of money

 

http://sethirdgen.org/egr.htm

 

Man red rock that helped me out big time i appreciate it i have to replace the egr valve unfortunatly but i really dont even think its ever been replaced by the looks of it. It all seems original

 

Red Rock, thanks for the link. Excellent info on the EGR. I saved it with my other diagnostic files.

 

Redrock is shooting out some good information here.