Hello,and to the point.Help Pls.Injectors clogged?
91 RS multi port.vin "T" 8th digit.
Story: Parked in 07 wrecked but run,08 I got it,run.09 never started it..10 lot of new parts,its ready.Car run good in driveway.Filled up tank ,added a few oz's seafoam,and off and away into the night to adjust headlamps.Shut it down to do adjusting,got em near..turn key,starts then dies. Never did start again that night.A midnight call,A disgruntled son
came to get me,he better.Next day,I turn the key,fires up,cool!Mash the pedle,300 feet dies,pissed.Push it back..ahrrg.Starts.dies over and over.spray fuel down intake,runs,kinda.clean plugs,starts,dies.long day.I tuck my tail,boy, pull me home.He did.
Next morning:looks good!Turn key,fires up,runs,it loves the driveway.Mash the fuel,dies.
Off to parts store,new plugs,installed.Fires up,dies.check new plugs,drivers bank soaked
and dirty,passenger bank,clean and dry.Finished out the day that way..No back firing,no
poping,normal.Disconect the coolant temperature sensor,runs 2 seconds exact.conected 1 second.Map has no effect eather way,nor does the bypass conector,or any other conector I disable/enable. Had codes 34/54/33.or was that code 45?been a long day.Have power to
pink/black injector wire,and dark green has power,dont seem to flash.Makeshift
testlight,talilight bulb.. ..-1.324 ohm on black wire,and 1.324 on the yellow wire,with
injecor harness disconected,that couldnt be good.Fuel pump makes 45 psi when key is turned
on,same when cranked,slowly drops after key is turned off,holds like 30 psi or so,for long time,maybe hours.Thoughts?late,been a long
weekend.I will edit to make sence.Pls someone just jump in here and give me a starting
point,what do I do/test first? Dont say matches,I wont hear it. This car has sit for yrs.Time to drive. Feel free to check it out at youtube.When it was running good and now that it seems to be clogged.Its a project I must finish.
ok,my ? is..did the seafoam losen up the crap and force it into the injectors?when i shut it down to do the headlamps it just stuck there..
It starts,then dies,over and over.I ordered a self butt kicker from ebay,,should be here soon.Has new fuel filter, 10 miles on it same with oil/filter and ignition modual same with coil and egr.Had it running today till it warmed up,,then it quit again,then got dark.its a fuel prob for shure.starts when you give it a spray of gas.check it out youtube ,videos are better than words,no ****,,just hoping for a clue,it run good till i seafoamed the gas.I never realy thought about the varnish pluging it..hindsight is 20/20.I took both fuel lines off,send and return,fills a coke bottle pretty fast from eather one,and no rust or water in it,when i changed the fuel filter the old one was nearly clean.any sensor that could cause this? K, I have it running,just started,after many many tries and fails,but still rough,rpm's surge,and drop,whats this? didnt change anything just kept trying..Too gun shy to drive it yet.The ignition module is new and tested working at the time of purchase.and thats what i was saying,,one bank,seems to be running/flooding(driver) and one not running dry(pass)thats where im lost,power on both pink wires.K.Today I pulled dist,set base timing.Run good.Ran it for a hour,smooth.disconeted batt to clear any codes,reconected batt.turn key,wont start.has fire.Has no fuel again.fuel down intake,fires up,runs dry.why does it run,then when I shut it down,it wont start again?I let it run till fan cycled 2 times,shut it down,started it,run a few mins,shut it down.walked away for 20 mins,come back tryed to start it wont start.unpluged the water temp sensor,still wont start,plugged it in,no start.will wait till its cold.seems like only time it starts is when cold.no fuel to start when warm/hot,but cold seems to get fuel and start.no fuel now its cold.may start first crank,may be hours befor it starts again.drove it 5 miles,shut it down,come back no start again.man im lost..runs good when its running.dear diary:today it runs on drivers bank for 2 seconds and quits.have power to blue and green injector wires at the conector.will there be power to the blue and green wires with the key off? beter luck tomorrow.thanks.Ill just buy new injectors.15 lbs?mine are dead.K,new injectors.Will someone jump in here and tell me how to adjust the idle?pls.has a idle control valve.

 

Are there times it doesn't start up? If so, spray starter fluid into the intake system, if it then starts its fuel delivery problem, if not, it's spark, that's the first step to narrow it down.
Before you do anything big, put a new fuel filter in if you don't already have one, new air filter, oil change, all that general maintenance type stuff, put some seafoam through the brake booster to clean out the carbon. If it's still having issues, then you know its not a simple maintenance item, because a lot of times it can be, I would check all your sensors before suspecting bigger problems, check the MAF or MAP whichever you have, check your o2 sensor, your TPS, and your IAC. After all that is done and checks out, if you still have issues and have it narrowed down to fuel delivery its most likely a bad(not clogged) injector, or bad fuel pump.

 

I agree with 3rd gen RS.
Seafoam is a great product, as a matter of fact we are distributors for the company and w have it in stock, but remember....when you use this type of product as it cleans it flushes all of the gunk through the lines and directly into the screens/filters of the fuel injectors. Depending on the condition of the injectors, the fuel additives are sometimes a temporary fix.
If all else fails and fuel delivery is ultimately the issue we will be more than happy to check them for you on our bench at no charge to you.

www.southbayfuelinjectors.com

 

Check the fuel pressure. Could be FPR or Fuel pump. Most likely fuel pump.

 

We need to know the exact codes. In your list there, codes 33 and 34 indicate a bad MAP sensor (signal high AND low), code 45 rich exhaust (meaning you have too much fuel, not too little), and code 54, no voltage on fuel pump relay circuit. Can't go farther without knowing for sure what the computer thinks is wrong.

BTW, you're not supposed to be looking for power in the injector harness anywhere EXCEPT the 2 pink wires. The yellow and black ones are for the coolant temp sensor, and the blue and green ones are GROUNDED by the ECM to provide injector ground. To test the injector signal, hook the test light to battery positive and probe the blue and green wires while someone is cranking the engine. The light will flash if the drivers in the ECM are good.

:edit: BTW, sounds like an ignition problem to me, with the driver's plugs being soaked in gas. These cars WILL run on one bank of injectors. It'll run like crap and barely get out of its own way (even worse than normal ), but it WILL run on 3 cylinders. There is a TSB for the ignition system on the 90-91 models. Also, have the ignition module tested.

 

now thats what im looking for,,input.yea.Thanks .soon as I get home from work.

 

Hi ya folks,,My injectors are dead.I wish to change out the multec for Bosh 3.Is that posable?what ones? dont the multec run 15lbs?what will the diff be for the bosh 3?what i meen is,would there be so much diff that i would have to change the chip in the ecm?or the ecm?I just wish to get em and put em in..I need my ride,,rideless at this time..pls someone jump in here and say something creative.
91 Camaro RS 3.1 multi port . vin T all stock.

 

we have the 15lb bosch gen ll's. They have the 4 spray pattern. The smallest size bosch lll's that we carry are 19lb and they would be too big.

www.southbayfuelinjectors.com

 

ok,,the 2's are 15lb and the 3's are 19lb,,ok,,just what i wanted to know.

 

Will someone jump in here and tell me how to adjust the idle?pls.has a idle control valve.

 

Hmm, how much is it off by? If it's a real small amount the screw stop might be enough.(little screw that stops the linkage from closing all the way, basically keeps the throttle open at idle when your foot is off the gas, otherwise it would close all the way and engine die out if you didn't keep foot on gas all the time.)

 

yes,done that.I had the idle control valve out.now I read some where to adjust it 1 and 1/8 from base to top of valve point.just seems I may be missing something,,looking for a proper way..or Ill do it the Hick way..anyhow it lives,,for now..lol.