Well iv started to work on this damn car again and im still getting problems, when ever i try to crank over my car after putting starting fluid down the throttle body and crank it over all i can get it to do is to "pop", after awhile i cant even crank the car over, its like the starter gets too hot and doesnt want to do anything, i can hear a click from under the steering column but the engine does nothing, but the brake light comes on when im not touching the brake and also my radio cuts out when im cranking it over, also my temp gauge burrys itself when the starter quits on me, any help here guys or am i screwed?

 

Sounds like you're still not getting fuel delivery due to VATS or some other issue. Use the paperclip trick (if you have a Haynes manual, and you probably should, it will tell you, or you can find it on here) to see if the ECM is spitting out a code 46. If it's not a code 46, pull a plug and make sure you have a bright white spark.

Second, check ALL the connections between the battery and the power to the car, at the starter and at the junction block by your radiator cap (under the cap, it should be, down near the tray where the evap canister should sit). Make sure the connections don't have any corrosion and are tight. Looseness and corrosion will do BAD things. And don't crank the engine for more than about 15 seconds at a time, and even that's too much. You'll kill both the battery and the starter before you get anywhere. Car batteries don't like being deep cycled (overused until they're dead and brought back again).

Third, a couple of the gauges are supposed to read off the scale high when the engine is turned over due to being turned off. I believe one is the temp gauge. Also, check the switch at the base of the parking brake lever. I know mine is touchy in that it will randomly turn the BRAKE light on or off based on how my arm is sitting against the console.

:edit: Also, I have a question for you. Do you know how to read wiring diagrams? If you do, there is a site I can point you to that will have factory wiring diagrams to help figure out your mess.

 

well i was going to trouble shoot the codes but ever since i replaced all the fuses all the trouble lights went away besides my ses light....... and yes i can read wiring diagrams

 

and down by that charcoal canister i have an orange wire that is cut...any idea?

 

Don't remember if it was you or someone else with a '91 I pointed to this site, but... http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...ine_wiring.gif

It's way too simple. I thought they had something other than the cruddy Haynes type stuff on there, with connector numbers and such, but they don't. I'd check to make sure I have power at the FP/INJ1 and INJ2 fuses in the fuse panel first and work down to the fuel injectors if you don't have a code 46. Trust me, if you have a code 46, it won't matter if the engine has run or not. The ECM will spit out this code and then refuse to go. The SES light is the only one that gives codes. It sounds like there is a short somewhere that's killing your power intermittently.

 

i believe those have power but ill check again tomorrow, if not ill check for codes but isnt code 46 vats?

 

There shouldn't be ANY orange wires cut. You'll need to go out and get some fusible link wire and a small ring terminal to put the wire back on the junction block. Orange and red wires are constant power to something. Pink ones are ignition controlled. Green and blue are ECM controlled circuits. Purple is some sort of data.

 

I'v been meaning to repair it but it seems like its going to my turn signals which is why i havent worried about it yet.

 

There aren't any orange wires in the turn signal circuits... Those are blue and green.