RENO
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RENO
hey...ur still having tranny problems? what are the symptoms? i can maybe help u out...lemme know
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K&N,MSD Gm Coil,TB Bypass, Flowmasters with Hand Made Tips, Msd Heli-Core Wires, Cold Air Intake, Dynomax High-flow cat,Rapidfires, AND IN ONE MONTH VORTECH BLOWN CUSTOM INSTALL W/ A COMPUCAM! I feel the need to race after that...ill let you guys know after its done, and ill be sure to dyno!
Next:
Cam, Rockers, Pulleys, Msd 6a...maybe a 3.4 crank too..boost torque a bit...
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K&N,MSD Gm Coil,TB Bypass, Flowmasters with Hand Made Tips, Msd Heli-Core Wires, Cold Air Intake, Dynomax High-flow cat,Rapidfires, AND IN ONE MONTH VORTECH BLOWN CUSTOM INSTALL W/ A COMPUCAM! I feel the need to race after that...ill let you guys know after its done, and ill be sure to dyno!
Next:
Cam, Rockers, Pulleys, Msd 6a...maybe a 3.4 crank too..boost torque a bit...
#2
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Glad to hear from you. I had a th700R4 in there that had about 170k on it and finally died (lost dive and overdrive). I replaced it with another th700r4, but kept the original torque converter on there.
In 1st gear, it revs very high with very little acceleration, but eventually catches up to speed. At the top end of first, it sticks and doesn't like to downshift to 2nd. At partial throttle in first, it lurches and revs at a rhythmic pace, but once again, when it gets to second, drives fine.
I know it has a bit too much fluid in there. Would that cause this dramatic of a problem?
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Reno
'88 Firebird LB8
"Cerberus" Triple Black
custom intake, LT1 cat-back, 160*, TB bypass, B&M shift kit, sans A/C, Optimus head/200 watt amp/2 8" subs, TC lockup switch, Accel ignition, Splitfire plugs, Hypertech pulleys, Accel 300+ DIS
Coming soon: tail blackouts, usbody.com Ram Air II hood, chip, rebuild, roller rockers, cam, gauge pod, Powerdyne Supercharger, don't believe me? Stick around...
"Do you BURY me when I'm gone? Do you TEACH me while I'm here? Just as soon as I BELONG, then it's time I DISAPPEAR!!"
In 1st gear, it revs very high with very little acceleration, but eventually catches up to speed. At the top end of first, it sticks and doesn't like to downshift to 2nd. At partial throttle in first, it lurches and revs at a rhythmic pace, but once again, when it gets to second, drives fine.
I know it has a bit too much fluid in there. Would that cause this dramatic of a problem?
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Reno
'88 Firebird LB8
"Cerberus" Triple Black
custom intake, LT1 cat-back, 160*, TB bypass, B&M shift kit, sans A/C, Optimus head/200 watt amp/2 8" subs, TC lockup switch, Accel ignition, Splitfire plugs, Hypertech pulleys, Accel 300+ DIS
Coming soon: tail blackouts, usbody.com Ram Air II hood, chip, rebuild, roller rockers, cam, gauge pod, Powerdyne Supercharger, don't believe me? Stick around...
"Do you BURY me when I'm gone? Do you TEACH me while I'm here? Just as soon as I BELONG, then it's time I DISAPPEAR!!"
#3
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Uh oh... it might be because you re-used your old torque convertor. When a trans dies, it will spew metal filings thru everything, including the torque convertor and factory tranny cooler lines. It's supposed to be impossible to "flush" a torque convertor clean unless it's cut open and welded back together, so usually they're replaced with "rebuilt" (cleaned) units.
You could also have some kind of engine trouble.. where the tranny is confused as to which gear it should be in, since the engine's gaining & losing power.
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
You could also have some kind of engine trouble.. where the tranny is confused as to which gear it should be in, since the engine's gaining & losing power.
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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Engine seems to be running fine, really strong, in fact, when it's engaged properly. I'm wondering if perhaps my kickdown valve linkage is adjusted properly, considering the problem varies with the amount of throttle? How would I adjust that?
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Reno
'88 Firebird LB8
"Cerberus"
Now: rusting on a side street til I get out of college
Plans: BUILT 3.4 motor with B&M racing tranny, Hotchkis suspension all around, lowering 1", Accel ignition all around, Splitfire plugs, 88 front bumper, usbody.com Ram Air II hood, formula wheels, Firehawk tires, 91 GTA spoiler, restored interior (first on list)
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Reno
'88 Firebird LB8
"Cerberus"
Now: rusting on a side street til I get out of college
Plans: BUILT 3.4 motor with B&M racing tranny, Hotchkis suspension all around, lowering 1", Accel ignition all around, Splitfire plugs, 88 front bumper, usbody.com Ram Air II hood, formula wheels, Firehawk tires, 91 GTA spoiler, restored interior (first on list)
#5
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Car: 95 Caprice
Engine: 5.7l LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.93
get the fluid to the full mark, overfull can cause foamage.. adjust your detent cable by
pushing in on the little spring loaded button, and slide the cable thing all the way back and let go, then move the throttle to WOT by hand, you should heard the cable click a few times.. its adjusted.. hows your fluid smell, does it smell burnt.. if so your main clutch packs are most liely shot.. thats one of the most common falures on a 700r4.. using your old converter aint too good either, like tom said, theres a lot of junk in there.. plus when a tranny fails it heats p a lot, causing stress marks on the input shaft..
pushing in on the little spring loaded button, and slide the cable thing all the way back and let go, then move the throttle to WOT by hand, you should heard the cable click a few times.. its adjusted.. hows your fluid smell, does it smell burnt.. if so your main clutch packs are most liely shot.. thats one of the most common falures on a 700r4.. using your old converter aint too good either, like tom said, theres a lot of junk in there.. plus when a tranny fails it heats p a lot, causing stress marks on the input shaft..
#6
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their actually both VERY on the mark...try changing the fluid...if it doesnt help, convertor...
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89 RS
305 TPI...
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89 RS
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2.8 s/c'd firebird
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#8
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Yep, they do, and that's not a throttle kickdown, it's a TV cable. TV = Throttle Valve, it controls fluid pressure inside the transmission, not shift points.
Shift points depend on the transmission's fluid pressure.
The "dirty silver colored" button faces the passenger side of the car. It's between the top and bottom halves of the plenum, on the driver's side. The button faces the passenger side, and has a small hole in the center (for no particular reason). Follow the TV cable back from the butterfly valve, you'll hit the adjuster I'm describing.
Get this; I was showing a friend how to adjust the TV cable yesterday by demonstrating on my car- mine was way off!! Good thing I popped the hood.
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
Shift points depend on the transmission's fluid pressure.
The "dirty silver colored" button faces the passenger side of the car. It's between the top and bottom halves of the plenum, on the driver's side. The button faces the passenger side, and has a small hole in the center (for no particular reason). Follow the TV cable back from the butterfly valve, you'll hit the adjuster I'm describing.
Get this; I was showing a friend how to adjust the TV cable yesterday by demonstrating on my car- mine was way off!! Good thing I popped the hood.
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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Car: 95 Caprice
Engine: 5.7l LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.93
TV and kickdown, why do i always mix them two up.. like how i always get gear ratios arsebackwards.. no one ever understands how i describe the adjuster.. need to take a picture of it one day...
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Car: 95 Caprice
Engine: 5.7l LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.93
the detent cable that makes the tranny downshift at part throttle.. here i go in attemt to describe it again.. on our 2.8's, look directally to the right of the throttle body, youll see a black plastic housing i guess you could call it, with a little square extended peice with the cable coming thru it.. on the side nearest the throttle body feel around, youll find a spring loaded button of sorts that you can push in, push it in and slide the square extended peice in all the way, then let go of the button.. next graps the throttle lever (that all the cables attach to, and move it all the way open, you should hear the adjuster click a few times, then your done...
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