New at this.....Looking for ideas on how to make my stock 90 Fbird w/ auto 3.1L, T-tops faster. Also looking for places online to buy hoods, seats, wheels, etc. can ne1 help?????

 

Start easy!
1. K&N
2. New Catback (Dynomax)
3. New Plugs and Wires

-Basically do a tune up!

Other things
-pulleys
-headers (modified)
-New Chip
-Gears

You can get these at www.jegs.com www.summitracing.com www.fastchip.com

I dont know about the hoods though!
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91 RS Camaro
3.1L
Cat Back System, K&N filter,modified air box, Fastchip Stage 2, 160 thermo, Rapidfires and Bosch Wires 5 Air Horns

Kills: 89' 302 Thunderbird, 88' 305 Cutless Supreme, 90' 3.8 Bonneville

My Car

[This message has been edited by Garmer (edited December 18, 2000).]

 

first thing i did was a tune up. Then went things u can see/hear then went for performance. I made sure i didnt dump money into a car then it wouldnt be driveable

1.Tuneup
2.accel 8.8 wires
3.exhaust
4.msd 6a
5.stereo
6.anything else i could spend money on!

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Flowmaster 80 series, Random Technologies Cat, 3" intermediate pipe, SS
Hand Made Tips, 3 1/4" out, Accel 8.8 wires, MSD Coil, MSD Ignition Module,MSD 6A Box, Air Intake Temp Guage, Brushed Aluminum Hood Pins
Currently Working On:
T5 swap
Next to buy:
Slp dual cold air intake!
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My Site:
www.geocities.com/firebird89white

 

actually i already have an exhaust...flowpro muffler with 3" pipes, have K&N filter, stereo taken care off. See me and my friends have started a car club..problem is my car is 1 of 2 american cars. There are 2 eclipses, 2 integras, a civic, a little truck. So the thing is this...I want to be able to stay with the pack. Will I have problems keeping up with them or not???

 

Personally you still need some more **** in your pants! Do the mods,, alteast the ones you can afford!

Also cold air is a good idea.

 

well i have about $1500 to spend....and i am assuming that cold air means a ram air mod. I think i saw one for the K&N set up filter up front with a huge tube going into the engine somewhere?

 

If you have that much money,, you could easily get another (used) enigine. I am not the one to be talking though about all that would be needed. But if you want to stay a V6, read all of our sig to get some ideas (especially 3.1 Firebird)!

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91 RS Camaro
3.1L
Cat Back System, K&N filter,modified air box, Fastchip Stage 2, 160 thermo, Rapidfires and Bosch Wires 5 Air Horns

Kills: 89' 302 Thunderbird, 88' 305 Cutless Supreme, 90' 3.8 Bonneville

My Car

 

1500? hmm.. cam and rockers (cam 159.99 and full roller 1.6 ratio rocker 220) then installation (if not by yourself) about 500. Then if i were u id go posi (100) then another 150 for installation.then ud have about 400 left for something like an SLP cold air intake (100) and then get umm..a cat!

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Flowmaster 80 series, Random Technologies Cat, 3" intermediate pipe, SS
Hand Made Tips, 3 1/4" out, Accel 8.8 wires, MSD Coil, MSD Ignition Module,MSD 6A Box, Air Intake Temp Guage, Brushed Aluminum Hood Pins
Currently Working On:
T5 swap
Next to buy:
Slp dual cold air intake!
-------------------------
My Site:
www.geocities.com/firebird89white

 

My 92 3.1 has some mods comin up. To give you an idea of the prices, I'll list em:
Dynomax Catback (149 Summit Racing)
Jet Stage 2 Perfomance Chip (199 Jet Chips....I think you could find a better deal tho, I may have taken it up tht @$$ on that one....)
Accel Cap/Rotor (15.99 Autozone)
Accel 8.8 MM Spiral Wires (49.99 Autozone)
Accel Coil (53.99 Autozone)
I already bought it all, just waiting to install it. I'm also going with AC Delco Rapidfire plugs, I heard that they're great. Hope this helps give you some ideas. My K&N was about 25.00 at Autozone bye the way. After this I'm pretty much done with all the EZ Mods...except for underdrive pulleys. Anyone here with those notice a decrease in alternator/AC/Water Pump performance? And are they really worth it?

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92 Bird 3.1L Auto
Best $750 I ever spent....

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!

Kills:
93 Mustang LX (Before Mods)
AIM name OVRCLCK350

 

thanks and if you all can think of anything else let me know. asnd i will keep you posted on the changes

 

V8 Nuff said

 

I don't think that's even enough for a good v8 conversion. I mean he's lookin at engine, transmission, and computer, plus brackets for the front, and other small ****.....i'm not sure about if the driveshaft would work or not, and i know if I was going to do a v8 i'd change the front springs, not to mention labor rates if he doesn't wnat to do it himself. i believe someone in the v8 swap section estimated a practical non performance swap at anywhere from 2000-3000, i even saw one guy estimate 5000-6000. My opinion is if you want a V8, sell the v6, add the money, then buy a v8 thirdgen....

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92 Bird 3.1L Auto
Best $750 I ever spent....

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!

Kills:
93 Mustang LX (Before Mods)
AIM name OVRCLCK350

 

Also, you can change out the rear gears, and with the leftover money put a shift kit in your tranny, and also start working on suspension to give a real smooth ride. OR if the car's not in GREAT appearance shape (I think I remember you saying you needed a paint job) go aheada and get an estimate. Some NOT ALL Maaco's do decent work for a great price. My estimate for the paint job on mine was 725 and that's for the GOOD paint job, and that's including 325 of body labor. They're having a half price sale at all of the Maaco's right now too I believe, that's why mine was so cheap.

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92 Bird 3.1L Auto
Best $750 I ever spent....

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!

Kills:
93 Mustang LX (Before Mods)
AIM name OVRCLCK350

 

Good point, Overclk! The rear! Didn't 90 3.1's come with 3.23 rear gears? Many of the mid-80's 2.8's came with 3.42 rear gears; if you can find a rear 3.42/drum axle in a junkyard, you can swap the whole thing in. If you get it with drum brakes (like your current axle), much less work is involved! I just gave the info for dropping the rear axle down in this message:
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000649.html

To switch axles, add these steps:

3.1 Unbolt driveshaft from axle
3.2 Undo parking brake cables from adjuster (located above driveshaft)
3.3 Snip the body-to-axle brake hose in half (you really should buy a new one anyway!!) and put a screw or "plug" in the body end. This keeps your master cylinder from draining until you're ready to put the new hose (and axle) in.

Use these steps for 8 & up:

8. Remove the torque-arm-to-axle bolts & nuts
9. Crawl out from under the axle; stand clear
10. Unbolt the rearmost lower-control-arm-to-axle nuts, leave the bolts in
11. (A cool maneuver I forgot to do, I did this the hard way...) Put the wheels back onto the axle. Remove the LCA-to-axle bolts. Lower the axle to the ground. Roll the axle away. (I dragged it out from under the car with the jack.)


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

I forgot to add this- try to get the 3.42/drum axle for cheap. Gears are $200, an install is usually $200. Your '90 F-bird would have 28-spline axles already, so you could use the take-off Posi unit from SLP for $100. That's $500...

...In contrast, it cost me close to $600 to swap in my 1984 3.73/posi/disc axle. Most of that went to rebuilding the 84's disc brakes- but you get the idea. I would've saved money and headache if I bought 3.73's and had them installed. On the bright side, I got rear disc brakes


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!