More heater core questions
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Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
More heater core questions
Ok tongiht i picked up a new heater core tell me if i got the right thing it sems wrong it looks like a mini radiator with 2 coper tubes comming out of it.
Also what is the simplest way to do this i was told by a few people to drop the passanger underdash cover and i could get to it insted of takeing out my whole dash.
third i got some radiator cleaner that you have to drive max 10 hrds with it in is it ok if i go longer.
And i gor soem redline water wetter that drops your temp up to 20 degrees does that really work?
Also what is the simplest way to do this i was told by a few people to drop the passanger underdash cover and i could get to it insted of takeing out my whole dash.
third i got some radiator cleaner that you have to drive max 10 hrds with it in is it ok if i go longer.
And i gor soem redline water wetter that drops your temp up to 20 degrees does that really work?
Let me guess......it's about 2 or 3 inches thick?It sounds right to me.
I replaced mine without removing the dash.You'll need to remove the dash pad for easy access to the top screws.And it's a good idea to remove the bolt that holds the dash on the passenger side.That will allow you to pull the dash out some to wedge your hands in there.
The hardest part for me was the one screw on the top of the core housing.And snaking those damn tubes on the core through the wall is fun
.
Without looking for tools it took me about 2 hours roughly to do this.That includes smoke breaks also
Good luck!
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[This message has been edited by Kevin S (edited February 21, 2001).]
I replaced mine without removing the dash.You'll need to remove the dash pad for easy access to the top screws.And it's a good idea to remove the bolt that holds the dash on the passenger side.That will allow you to pull the dash out some to wedge your hands in there.
The hardest part for me was the one screw on the top of the core housing.And snaking those damn tubes on the core through the wall is fun
.Without looking for tools it took me about 2 hours roughly to do this.That includes smoke breaks also

Good luck!
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[This message has been edited by Kevin S (edited February 21, 2001).]
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
Sounds like the right item, yep.. you'll also need the custom fit hoses to hook it up to the metal tubes in the engine compartment.. you can't bend normal hose like that.. I tried. And you probably will have to cut them to get it out.
Also, getting the new core in perfectly is a real pain in the ****.. actually gave up on shoving mine in perfectly after 3 hours of contorted work. waiting till I take my dash apart to fix rattles to put it in right. If you do end up getting too ticked to fit it in perfectly, keep in mind you do have to make sure it's secure enough that the hoses won't pop off.. 220-240* steam in ****pit BAD.
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'86 Camaro SC, black /w silver racing stripes
2.8l MPFI/700r4
In search of new v8 engine & transmission
MSD coil, Accel 8mm wires, SplitFire plugs, Gabriel hijackers
Also, getting the new core in perfectly is a real pain in the ****.. actually gave up on shoving mine in perfectly after 3 hours of contorted work. waiting till I take my dash apart to fix rattles to put it in right. If you do end up getting too ticked to fit it in perfectly, keep in mind you do have to make sure it's secure enough that the hoses won't pop off.. 220-240* steam in ****pit BAD.
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'86 Camaro SC, black /w silver racing stripes
2.8l MPFI/700r4
In search of new v8 engine & transmission
MSD coil, Accel 8mm wires, SplitFire plugs, Gabriel hijackers
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by TechSmurf:
Also, getting the new core in perfectly is a real pain in the ****.. actually gave up on shoving mine in perfectly after 3 hours of contorted work. waiting till I take my dash apart to fix rattles to put it in right. </font>
Also, getting the new core in perfectly is a real pain in the ****.. actually gave up on shoving mine in perfectly after 3 hours of contorted work. waiting till I take my dash apart to fix rattles to put it in right. </font>

Good luck!

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1969 Falcon
1992 Artic White Firebird
1997 Black Firebird
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
After I totalled my car, and had to replace the heater core, I didn't bother with those stupid "question-mark-shaped" hoses. Like the good 'ol days, I ran "real" heater hose from the heater core outlets up to the water pump, and tied them out of the way of the exhaust.
Also, I always forget the year of your car, FASTRS, but if your heater core's anything like mine, one outlet pipe is larger than the other. I believe the factory calls for 5/8" hose. Well, that's right for one core outlet. The other one takes 3/4" I.D. hose. You can cram the 5/8" stuff on there, but it'll take forever.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Also, I always forget the year of your car, FASTRS, but if your heater core's anything like mine, one outlet pipe is larger than the other. I believe the factory calls for 5/8" hose. Well, that's right for one core outlet. The other one takes 3/4" I.D. hose. You can cram the 5/8" stuff on there, but it'll take forever.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
I have a 91 Camaro. The heater core looks werid is there heaterhose in the car also cuz the 2 copper pipes dotn look like they would go through the firewall right and i tried to do what you did TOM P but the hose got kinked so i said forget it. But thi sat ill be the moment of truth also what stops the ilet and outlet pipes from moveing around cuz the way u describe it those 2 copper pipes go through the firewall i jsut dont see how lol cuz they ar at a angle wider then 90Degrees
FastRS, I did this a couple months ago on my 92. I went by the book and tore the whole dash apart, but I'm an old guy who's body won't bend like you youngun's :-) so if you can do it like the guys suggested, go for it.
The pipes from the heater core go through holes in the dash that have rubber grommets on them to stop rattling. The formed hoses should stay on the engine side of the firewall - not go through it. Doubt they'd fit through the holes anyway.
And, I had to carefully bend the two pipes slightly closer together to get them to line up with the holes properly. Do this very gently. Probably only had to move mine about 3/8".
Good luck and have fun.
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Maroon '92 RS 3.1L AT PW PDL CC Tilt
The pipes from the heater core go through holes in the dash that have rubber grommets on them to stop rattling. The formed hoses should stay on the engine side of the firewall - not go through it. Doubt they'd fit through the holes anyway.
And, I had to carefully bend the two pipes slightly closer together to get them to line up with the holes properly. Do this very gently. Probably only had to move mine about 3/8".
Good luck and have fun.
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Maroon '92 RS 3.1L AT PW PDL CC Tilt
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,937
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
do the rubber graumts need to be replaced or will the old ones be ok. also is the heater core put in at some sort of angle??? cuz the way the 2 pups look they seem to be at like a 120 degree anglke givve or take
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">what stops the ilet and outlet pipes from moveing around cuz the way u describe it those 2 copper pipes go through the firewall </font>
When you get in there you will see 4 screws that hold the core in.It has a plastic case around it to hold it in place.Before you remove the old one,grab the tube sticking through the wall and try to move thme.When the new one is in place it should be just a sturdy.
I can't remember if any screws held the plastic case together or not.But it isn't to hard once you tear into it.
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[This message has been edited by Kevin S (edited February 22, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I didn't bother to replace the rubber grommets... maybe I should have, but, oh well.
That was 4 years ago, no problems yet... just don't shred them and you'll be fine.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
That was 4 years ago, no problems yet... just don't shred them and you'll be fine.------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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