I have been trying to figure this out for two weeks now...

I have spark going to the plugs, but the plugs look like this:



Order is right is front of car, left is rear so 1 and 5 look the best. The car is running rich and I can smell fuel on the plugs. My question is could it just be that I need new plugs, do I need to clean the injectors, or stuck lifter? I have 45-50 lbs of pressure at the fuel rail and good spark to the plug. The car will not start without starter fluid and it will not idle at all. However if I floor it, it goes to maybe 2k rpm and dies unless I let up and do it again. It also loops like I have an agressive cam.

Any help is appreciated.

 

The last plug looks awfully dry compared to the rest, I think perhaps you are only running on 5 cylinders. I would be less worried about the wet plugs that all look the same, and more worried about the one that "One of these things is not like the others".
Imo, figure out why one is dry, then worry about them being wet, its where I would start anyways. I would mainly suspect the injector on that port, can't really think of much else that would cause it to be dry. Its more likely that you have an issue in 1 cylinder than 5.

 

I also pulled the following codes a few minutes ago: 23, 42, and 46.

 

down to error 46, but would that stop a start?

 

I replaced all the plugs and reset the computer after my first attempt and thats when two of the codes went away. Now just code 46, but I know its not VATS and I doubt the power steering switch will stop the engine from running.

I was thinking that one of the first things I did was change the fuel pump to this one https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...P_RecType%3aA). I noticed that its listed as: Gallons Per Hour : 43.50 and Fuel Pump Pressure Rating : 28 PSI. Is that enough to run the car? Everything else I see is 40 free flow and min 65 to max 95psi.

 

Based on what you've posted, I have to ask this; even if you use starter fluid, will your car run more than 3 seconds?

My guess would be that you have a VATS issue. Have you looked into a new key? If the chip in ur key is worn out, that will cause a start then die condition. You may have either a worn out key or a worn out ignition cylinder. I dont have any personal experience, but based on what ive seen on this board, that would be my first guess.

 

It wont start at all with no starter fluid. With it, it will start and die if I don't give it gas. I thought VATS disabled the starter and the injectors so I ruled that out.

 

From what I remember, VATS will let the engine run for 2-3 seconds, then die. I would suspect VATS based on your symptoms and the codes youre setting, the codes being the biggest flag thrown up. The key would be the first place to start, then the ignition cylinder next.

Anyone with actual VATS experience want to chime in?

 

It sounds like you have a VATS issue. The vats system keeps the injectors from pulsing and sometimes keeps the starter from engaging depending on how it failed and if someone has messed with your starter relay. From your post it looks like you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail and you have spark so you need to check if your injectors are pulsing. Since your car has a vats code I'm going to say thats your problem but another problem with these cars is a shorted injector that will also mimic the same symtoms. Do not change your fuel pump if you have a problem with the vats system it will be a waste of money. Does your car have a security light in your insterment cluster? It should come on with the key on and go off after a few seconds if it stays on the car should not start.

 

The fuel pump was bad, I took it out hooked it up to a 12v power and nothing happened. I do not have a security light on. I will rent a noid light and see if the injectors are getting a pulse.

 

Ok, sounds like you had a fuel pump going out, after you change the fuel pump if you are not getting a injector pulse I have seen where the ignition cylinder wires break and it keeps the security light from coming on at all (no bulb test or anything) and this will trigger the vats system and keep the car from starting . Also could be a shorted injector. Since were talking alot about the vats system does you car have it? Does it have a chip in the key?

 

I went back and traced the VATS wires back to the ignition and there was a pretty good snag on it. I tried to fix it but it was too close to the cylinder so I bypassed VATS and viola! Thanks guys!!