hey this is the last question ill have im pertty sure but i am putting everything on and i cant find what the torque setting is on the cylinder head or is there one?

 

its been a long time but i think its 60#'s + 90 degrees but i would deff verify that like i said its been a long time.

also just to make sure u know u cannot reuse the stock headbolts ( well u can but its not recomended , the headbolts on my turbo motor have been used 2 times)

 

I re-used mine too...opps

 

fast reply would be nice seeing as im in my garage right now

 

yeah i got brand new ones
the ones on my truck were set to 37 flbs
also what are the nuts ontop of the rocker suppose to be set too?

 

project89 gave ya the ##'s

 

Actually just found this. Yours is a 2.8 so dont worrie about the 3.1L stuff

Head Bolts

2.8 70ft lbs

3.1
Step 1 40ft lbs
Step 2 tighten an adtional 90* degrees

Intake to heads

2.8 23ft lbs

3.1 19ft lbs

 

You have to set the valve lash your self. Thats alot of info that i dont wana tell you wrong even though i did mine a month ago and its turned out fine.

 

To adjust the valve, slowly tighten the locking nut (make sure the pointed side of the nut is up) while you rotate the pushrod in your fingertips. When you feel the slightest resistance stop. Tighten the nut 3/4 turn, I like to go about 5/8's of a turn because more damage is done with them too tight that loose (can always re-tighten if needed).

I would think that you would need to crank the motor over with a wrench so that the lifter is all the way down, that means the valve is closed, adjust the valve lash when the lifter is down/valve closed.

 

is there a way to tell if the lifters up?

 

When the piston is at top dead center, the lifters will be down as far as theyll go(both valves would be closed). Then you just spin the push rod in your fingers till you fell the slighest resistance while tighting the nut down, then once you feel resistance turn ( i turned mine about 5/8 of a turn) the locking nut. Then crank the motor over with a socket wrench on the crank untill your next set of lifters are down. Once you do all three pistons, youll want to go back through and feel them, if they still turn or not. You dont want to over tighten them!! Rather you have a slight tick from them being a hair loose, then you could go back in and tighten them, but if you over tighten them too much you could possibly bend a push rod.

I dont know if you did this or not but taking out the spark plugs on the other head will make turning the engine over alot easier!

 

ok that makes really helps me out thank you. to double check
i am going to the piston in top dead center so both valves will be closed then rotate the push rod in my fingers while tighning the locking bolt, when it gives resistance i will turn 5/8 of a turn and repeat...

 

yup just do all 6 push rods like that, one cylinder at a time.

 

now should i end with the first cylinder at top dead center for when i put the distrubitor back on? i though i read that somewhere

 

Well did you mark the base of the dizzy when you took it out??

If not its ok just get the #1 cylinder to top dead center, youll know this by the indented mark on the harmonic balencer being at 0* if you can read it(look hard as it may be a little rusty or dirty). Then put the dizzy back in and get the rotor to be aimed at the #1 cylinder, about 7 o clock. You dont need to tighned the hold down bolt too much since youll be adjusting the timing once it starts up(that hold down bolt is a PITA to get to once you have the car running and everything is hott!)

One you get it up and running youll have to set the timing, you know how to do that???

 

where am i finding the mark on the harmonic balancer?
i set the timing on an acura like 5 years ago so not really

 

This isnt mine. its a horrible picture but you see that grove?? Turn the engine so that #1 cylinder is at Top dead center and then look at the balancer and see if that grove is visible and it should be pointing at 10 o clock(roughly) if youd look at it from the front. Then point the rotor on the dizzy at that cylinder( about 7-oclock) That is 0* degrees base timing as it is. You just want to make sure that mark is lined up so that you know that cylinder is on the correct stroke.

Do you have a timing light?? You can get the motor to run buy turning the dizzy clock wise untill it runs smoother, but youll definitly need to time it with a light. Also when it comes to setting the timing here are the steps. I dont reccoment running that car without getting the timing set. Autozone rents them if you dont have one.

1) With the car off...unplug a wire( the connector that is hanging out of the wire harness above the blower fan Passenger side of the firewall(tan/black wire) disconnect that wire.

2) Hook up your timing light to the #1 cylinder plug wire and the other wire from the timing light to the battery 12vts+

3) Start up the car and let it idle, youll be pointing the timing light at the harmonic balancer and timing guide, youll see what im taking about at soon as you see the flashes of light.
(Also some people dust the harmonic balancer with baby powder to see the grove and timing guide marks better.

4) turn the dizzy CCW to retard timing and CW to advance timing.

5) set the timing to 10* base for a stock car. No sence in adding timing just for shi*s and giggles.

6)Turn the car off and tighten down the hold down bolt on the dizzy, reset computer(undo the battery for a minuet then hook it back up), plug that wire back in that you dissconected near the passenger fire wall., start the car back up and let idle for 10 minuets,(it needs to idle for the IDLE Relearn process).