Hi ive posted a couple times
i have a 91 fbird 3.1 v6
Ive replaced the iac, the fuel filter, cap rotor, coil , plugs , wires, ran tank cleaner (seafoam)
the car has had a bouncy idle i replaced the iac cause it would occasionally stall at idle and it would start hard well i put in a new one and it ran better
no stalling issues now today the car wouldnt start then when it did it felt like it was gonna stall now it will turn start then die any ideas or a direction to go in would be helpful

 

I'd hook up a fuel pressure gauge to it, test it while its acting up. Should be 36-44 psi or so. The test port is at the back near the dist. cap. You can rent a gauge at auto zone.

 

ok had an idea what if the fuel pump is going and not fully gone it looks as if someone had replaced it cause it is hot wired into the fuse box and it had a bit of a wine when it is running

 

Some pumps are noisy... I know mine was (it's gone now along with the electric sender, using a carbed sending unit with external pump now ).

You can't know the pump is bad, or anything else, until you get your hands on a spark tester and a fuel pressure gauge.

 

i was looking at other things hopeing it wasnt the pump or anything else so i pulled the plugs they were covered in oil the valve cover seals went and they were soaked

 

...which also creates a vacuum leak, making the engine run like crap...

 

is their any stickys on how to pull the plenum and the valve covers first time doing it and im a bit hesitant but im also excited

 

At a minimum you should get a manual (Chilton's?) which will have all you need and more. However, to remove the plenum etc. is fairly easy. Just start at the top and remove the bolts you can see holding things on. Just remember where everything came from so you can put it back together.

 

does just the upper have to come off or upper and lower intake?

 

If you just want to get to the fuel pressure regulator and/or injectors only the upper plenum need to come off.

 

i have to take the valve cover off to replace the gaskets so upper and lower?

 

Yes lower too.

 

thank you what size socket should i use on the valve cover bolts

 

okay pulled all the nuts cant get the plenum or the trottle body off/out

 

Did you remove the two bolts that hold the TB to the plenum? You don't have to remove the TB just leave it sitting there. Make sure to remove the bolt that holds the cable bracket to the upper plenum. Also the egr tube needs to be disconnected. Just look around for all the bolts etc.

 

yes i do all the bolts are out and it doesnt wanna budge

 

If it hasn't been apart in a long time maybe the gaskets are well stuck and holding it together. Carefully insert a thin blade in between the mating surfaces to start separating the parts and then something thicker like a screw driver or blunt chisel. Don't use too much force.

 

ok upper is off tip on the next half????

 

how do i de pressurize the fuel lines going to the fuel rail

 

There's a test nipple at the back of the fuel rail. Take off the cap and wrap some rags around it and push in the valve stem. Some gas may squirt out of there's any pressure.

 

Undo the bolts holding the injector harness and disconnect and move it out of the way. Remove the fuel lines and move them out of the way. You should be able to get the lower plenum off then.

 

thank you i was just about to give up and call it a day when it popped off

 

hey im at it again today im having trouble getting to the passenger side valve cover whats is the first thing i should take off on the pass side to get to the cover bolts?

 

Maybe coil bracket, egr and alternator bracket so you can see where you are. Enough so you can get to cover bolts.

 

any spacific tools i should use cause i only got one bolt loose on the alt bracket and that has to come out first

 

Only alt bracket that needs to come off is the rear one, 3 13mm bolts/nuts, followed by the EGR valve and tubes, 2 13mm bolts and 2 10mm bolts, and then the coil bracket with 2 15mm bolts.

 

It makes life easier if you have different length extensions for the sockets. And maybe a universal joint. You can buy them as you need them or there are fairly cheap sets around.

 

ok what about the valve cover nuts is this normal
my valve cover bolts have long studs sticking out

 

Yes. You need to get deep socket or the star shaped tool to fit on the top. Or pliers. They shouldn't be too tight.

 

okay got one nut off the bottom of the bracket i cant get the one on the bottom towards the firewall

 

If you mean the one that goes into the head by the exhaust port be careful. It may be well stuck or seized. Try to get some wd40 in there and leave it for a while then try again. If it still won't move repeat and wait longer. If still no go you may need some heat around the bolt. Turn harder and try not to shear it off or you'll be drilling etc. You could give it whack with a hammer as well to help break it loose. Fortunately it's a good sized bolt.

 

got it off thanks u

 

everything else was a peice of cake after that

 

Um, guys, you don't need to touch the studs... As long as you have a deep 10mm 3/8" drive socket.

 

ok im deff pulling the valve covers tomorrow but i have to ask my trans mount is bad where should i get the mount advance autozone pepboys or napa which one will fit closer to stock and wont snap

 

Cheapest?

 

Or Rockauto and you won't even need to leave home to get it!

 

so it doesnt matter ?

 

okay when putting everything back together what seals do i put sealant on i know the valve cover the lower intake to the maninfold the intake runners .... do i put sealer on the egr seal the tubing and the throttle body seal to the plenum

 

Only time you need RTV is between the lower intake and the block and the EGR tube to the exhaust manifold (the copper stuff, NOT red or blue).

 

can i use rtv blue on the lower intake to plenum seal , throttle body to plenum seal? also any tips on removeing old cork seals on the valve covers? and any on installing new ones?

 

Dude, there's a gasket kit. FelPro MS93020, includes every gasket for everything above the heads on every 60* V6 (except the thermostat gasket) including FWD cars to 1994. Save yourself headaches and get the gasket kit. You REALLY don't want to be spending hours scraping off old RTV off of parts that you will probably end up taking apart again and damaging the aluminum.

As for the valve covers, I use a razor scraper and a screwdriver or chisel and then brake cleaner to get the small pieces.

 

Yeah, sometimes using rtv w/ gaskets causes them to split. If needed, use a glue (weather strip adhesive) to hold the gasket in place, use only alittle though.

 

i actually have that kit lol

 

okay which side goes where?

also i lost one of the washer for the studs can i just use a normal washer or no?

 

The blue side ALWAYS goes up. As for the "washer", I'm assuming you mean the load spreader that sits under the cover nut... IDK if you can get away without it as the load spreaders do just that, they spread the load of the tightened nut further along the cover flange.

 

any idea were i could find one by tomorrow of tuesday

 

just use the nut until you can get a spreader. But put the nut only on the upper/inner side of the cover.

 

towards the in take right but where can i get a spreader?

 

Junkyard... I'd sell you mine, but they're going on my oil pan (with mods)...