So today I got my entire carburetor tore apart, soaked in carb cleaner, and cleaned and ready for assembly. Everything was going good until I tried to attach the base plate to the throttle body. As soon as I try to tighten the 4 bolts (from the bottom) that hold the base plate to the throttle body, the linkages get so tight that I cannot even open/close the throttle/choke. It simply will not move. As soon as I remove the bolts it is nice and free like it should be. Does anybody have any idea what could be causing it to bind like that? I already tried taking it back apart and using the old gasket (it was slightly different in thickness), but that didn't change a thing. All 4 bolts that go up into the throttle body are the exact same length, so I don't have them mixed up in any way. If anybody has any idea what my issue could be, or what could help me get this straightened out, that would be great. I only have tomorrow (until 4 p.m.) to get this carburetor rebuilt and back into my car, so I am getting a little nervous now.

 

What the **** is up with you guys moving my threads out of here? Both were carb related threads.. This is annoying as Hellen Keller with a door bell... What is the point of having a carb section of the forum if we cant post in it?... Are you guys just too dumb to work on a varajet or what?

 

welcome to the bastard child v6 world, nobody wants anything to do with them on the rest fo the site so everything gets moved here

sorry i cant help u with the carb issue but im not familiar witht he v6 carbs at all

is there any chance the base is warped, maybe take a picture of the lingages and maybe i can help u or somone else can help u figure it out

 

For anyone who was curious, it turned out to be that the fast idle cam was in the wrong position when I bolted the throttle body to the base, which was causing the binding. I didn't find it until I basically had the entire carburetor back together, when I started hooking the linkages back up. Had to tear it all the way back down and start over. Also managed to break the mixture control solenoid. This part doesn't exist in my town, and nobody knows where to find one. Thankfully I found one on Ebay, cost $53 shipped to my door.

I guess if anyone has any questions feel free to ask. I am pretty familiar with that damned varajet now.

 

Hey
I've got a question for you. I thought I found the info before but can't find I now and maybe you can help. I also have the PDF for the carb manual and I doesn't say either, just to follow manufacfurers specs which won't work for me.
Anyways Just a bit of background first. I swapped a tired 2.8 out for a 3.4 in my 82 Bird. I'm using the Varajet and intake on the 3.4 and everything fired up just fine once reassembled but I'm finding some rough idling issues. I increased fuel pressure a bit which helped some but not still quite right.
I want to run a bit richer mixture due to the increased displacement so I removed the cap from the mixture screw but I'm not 100% sure which way in lean and rich. I'm assuming in/clockwise in rich for less air, out for lean more air. This will be just a by-feel adjustment for drivability as it has already passed our emissions test.
Thanks in advance.
Art

 

counter clockwidse for more fuel and clockwise for less , atleast it is on a normal carb.

bve aware the mixture screw is only for idle so if its running lean at part and wot this wont fix it

btw how do u like the carb ontop of the 3.4?

 

Yeah no problem, thanks. It runs great under throttle. Lots of power, strong and smooth curve. Actually like it better than when it was MPFI, but my valves were way out of adjustment at the time. It was just such a hassle to do the adjustment with the intake.
Anyways I'm just trying to smooth out the idle as it is a bit lumpy. These carbs also have a high temp compensation 'valve' that I think might be sticking. I got it idle well until full op temp so I'll set it back to that.
Thanks for the info.

 

if u have access to a dial indicator it makes it hella easy to adjust the valves.

put the lifter in the base of the cam lobe back off the nut on the rocker all the way , but the plunger of the dial indicator on the plunger in the lifter, then zero out the dial indicator. tighten the nut till the dial indicator reads .020 and ur done. just repeat for each valve

though this does require u to pull the intake and have a magnetic dial indicator but u can buy them cheap online

 

I've got all the tools, it's just the down time from disassembly and as some say that you should loosen the rockers and let the lifters bleed up over night before re adjusting. It was much easier on the stand between engine swaps, and was in a hurry the first time Around

 

u dont have to let them sit as long as u verify the lifter plubger is at the top before u try to adjust it ur fine. and yeah its apain in the *** in the car.

when i build my turbo motor i couldnt find my dial indicator so i did it by the book , buttoned up the motor and every valve was way to tight had to tear it down and redo it in the car i hated it . i used the dial indicator the second time around and it was perfect

 

These carbs have two idle adjustments, slow idle and fast idle, and it depends on the position of the fast idle cam for which one it uses.

I'd be very wary of pulling the cover for the mixture screws, as you can totally bork up the carb by messing with it. The mixture is computer controlled by the mixture control solenoid, and if you're having mixture issues, I'd replace that part first, as they do wear out easily.

You can see the idle adjustments on page 3 of this manual:
http://c777913.r13.cf2.rackcdn.com/r...2se_manual.pdf

 

Thanksfor the advice. Actually there's four idle adjustments (five if you want to be real technical, one underneath on base plate) and a mixture adjustment. Low and high as you said which indisnt want to touch, idle speed adjustments for both base idle and high which are easily accessible, and the mixture screw which I needed an adjustment on. The CCC won't adapt enough to compensate for the fuel needs of the 3.4 and kept running lean and loaping. 1/3-1/2 turn rich on the mixture screw gave me a nice smooth idle.
I leant the wrong way that you cannot increase idle speed too much with the base idle screw because it will make enough difference in the tps base setting and set off a code. So that went back to acceptable levels and timing back just enough to avoid pinging, hard to tell on the 3.4 since there's no timing plate.