Kishan

Kind of running out of ideas here. when i bought the car it was a no start but got it started after playing with the distributor timing and a little quick start and it fired right up but you can here the hesitation.

I figured since I changed the rotor, cap, wires, plus the pickup coil passed the resistance test i did that the injectors were cloged. While looking around I noticed that injectors 3 and 5 had fuel near them ontop of the manifold. So I took them out and cleaned out the fuel rail and dumped all 6 of my injectors in the ajitator with a gallon of carb cleaner for about 2 hours and they came out looking new.

I replaced the old o rings, spacers, and pintel caps and lubed them with a little engine oil before I put it back together. Once everything was in place I fired it up and it started one shot but I could hear backfiring through the intake and exhaust as I gave it gas. Tried putting it into 1st with a little gas and it seemed like it was going to die out so i just let it idle out while i droped a little sea foam through it (hasnt been started since 2001)
*Next Day*

So today I bought a fuel pressure tester and went to go start it and nothing at all even with the quick start, but to my luck once agian there was fuel by the same injectors 3 and 5 even with new o rings.
(It wasnt as warm as yesterday but pretty chilly today.)

p.s. when I pressure tested it, I read it with the key on engine off it only gave me about 15 psi. but didn't hold it was droping as I watched.

Kishan

Also I get no fuel in the reutrn line......

TomP

Not starting for 11 years ? Wow and I thought I was bad not starting mine for 2 years. (It just fired up with 1/2 turn of the key, it must've missed me) I'm betting your injectors are gummed up, along with your fuel lines, fuel filter, etc. Have you checked/cleaned any of those? Did you drop the tank at all to get that 11 year old gasoline out?

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

That fuel pressure "should be" about 43.5Psi when you purge the system, as in turn the key forwad but dont start the car. Then it should drop to about 30-35Psi with the car running.

Mine sat for almost 5 years from 2003-2008 and it was a PITA to get back in shape. The whole fuel system was messed up.

thunder69n

The line on the fuel rail under the Plenum is a pita to get not to leak for me when I disconnect it and go to reconnect.

If unplug battey, remove Plenum. Plug battery back in, turn key, to on but not run, and u will see gas squirting to from what ever O ring is leaking.

Kishan

Thanks for the help guys, lately the weather has been on the crappy side over here but today after college I'll get to work on her. I bought a new fuel pump and filter so I'm going to change that and it should fix my fuel pressure issue. Shouldnt take me too long since the PO did a hill billy door to remove the pump from the inside LOL. But as for the gas leak near injectors 3 and 5 even with all the injectors rotated with new seal I've come to the conclusion that there must be a ding somewhere inside the fuel rail where 3 and 5 sit.

But I will look Itnto replacing the old O rings on the feed and return lines before purchasing a new rail and see if that might fix the leak. Cant really see where its coming from cause of the plenum but you can see the puddling by 3 and 5. Woulnt Hurt to try tho

Kishan

If the little point on the end side the injector(Pintel style) is broken can it cause a slow leak? I think one of them was but regardless i went to the wreckers yesterday and picked up some Injectors off a 2.9L ranger so I'm going to swap them in after I clean them.

TomP

You can also grab from a GM 3.1 (3100) FWD V6. Those won't have pintle caps to break (I run them in my 2.8). When you clean them make sure not to get any cleaner in the windings/connector. Honestly I probably wouldn't clean them at all, just put them in- or send the junkyard set out to Rich at http://www.cruzinperformance.com/ .

I can't explain why there'd be a fuel leak either, if the o-rings are new and the rail is seated properly then it has to be (like you said) a damaged rail or damaged injector. If you move the injectors around on the rail, does the leak follow them?

Kishan

Looks like the weather has gotten way better now...
So I finally managed to put in the new fuel pump and the 2.9L ford ranger fuel injectors.
Doing this solved my fuel leak and with the new pump the pressure is steady at 35-39 psi.
But now I have the problem of a intake backfire when I rev to about 2500-3000 rpm and when I hold the rpm at about 2000 steady it drops back down to about 1000 and under.
This is all happening when I'm in neutral, i cant even imagine if the car would move in first.

I motor vac'd the engine using the solution thinking it had a lot of carbon build up.... Sounds better but same problem.

I'm also thinking along the lines of a bad icm, pick up coil, or ignition coil
What's do you guys think?
Thank you

TomP

Where's the timing set to? You said in your first message that you adjusted it...

Kishan

Yes I did, but me being the smart *** I am I forgot to mark the distributor when I took it out. Before putting it back in, I made sure it was on TDC compression stroke, and the rotor was facing #1 then droped the cap back on. All the wires are correctly placed.
So it still stumbles me, but I'm wonder if it may jumped a
Tooth :S Gona get a timing light tomorow and take a look.

Kishan

Quick question, it said set to 10* BTDC.
I'm just confused, is this regarding the crank
Timing or something to do with the dizzy timing.
Thanks

TomP

Glad to hear you have a timing light! There's two kinds of timing, valve timing (camshaft to crankshaft) and ignition timing (distributor). We're both talking about distributor timing now.

Yup you put the distributor back in correctly. (I used to have a message on here saying "it doesn't matter where the #1 terminal is, as long as the rotor points to #1 on TDC/compression". Most people think the #1 plug wire has to be aimed at the firewall or some other nonsense!)

So as long as you unhooked the EST bypass connector (tan stripe by heater motor) and set it to 10 degrees advance/BTC, you've done it correctly. Maybe it is the pickup coil/module or spark coil. How do the plugs look? Clean or gunked up (not firing)?

Kishan

Hey Tom P thanks for the help, greatly appriciate it.
Turns out my ignition timing was RIDCULOUSLY off, after timing it right now it sounds way better with no more intake backfire.

But I still do have a tiny little exhaust back fire i can feel it when I put my hand at the end of the exhaust. Something is still up, any clues?

Thanks once agian

MadCelt

Exaust backfire means unburnt fuel is getting into your pipes. Make sure all your plugs are firing consistently... check for arcing plug wires, fouled / partly fouled plugs, etc.

A good example is my own dumbass mistake... Putting my intake on, one of the gaskets slipped and crankcase air was being pulled in from the oil gallery into one of the heads... ran great at idle, but as load and rpm ramped up vacuum, it would start sucking oil from the gallery, fouling those plugs and dumping raw fuel on the exaust stroke... pop-pop-poppop-pop. Took a bit for me to figue it out (hiising from dizzy, then noting that with PCV and breather out of the valve covers, there was vacuum at the valve covers... the hissing was the vacuum pulling through the dizzy gasket/washer...) Anyway, could be a number of things, but basic cause it raw fuel in the exaust.

Kishan

Arite MadCelt kool, I'll check that out.
All my wires are new, including cap and rotor. But the plugs could be fouled
Due to the improper ingnition timing from Before. I'll swap em tomorow after college and see how it goes.

I also did a 2.9L injector swap so in not sure if that could be the culprit as well? Uhmmmmm. More fuel running rich, causing a tiny backfire?

MadCelt

What's the lbs/hr on the new injectors compared to the old ones? On the 305, the injectors are 19 lb/hr, if you go to say, 24's, you really need a prom tune to compensate for the higher volume. Giving a 24 and a 19 the same signal results in a higher volume of fuel from the 24, I do believe. The O2 sensor will read that and the PCM should try to compensate, but it can only do so much.

Not sure how different those injectotrs for the 2.8s are though....