JC1992rsconvert

OK so I've been driving my car around for a good 4 to 5 months now. Well what's wrong is that my car has been overheating (260 degrees) and before it started over heating it developed a knock from the back side of the motor on the bottom near the passenger side. Ive had people tell me its a wrist pin, rod, and all sorts of stuff ive even been told its the water pump buy idk. I've got a 3.4 out if my moms 1995 camaro and im very tempted to put it in. Now heres my questions hasand anyone had problems out of there wrist pins and would i get the same horsepower and mpg out of her motor or should i just try to fix mine. And another thing i cant really seem to find on here would i have to use her ecm and wires that hook up to her ecm in mine or can i use wiring. This has really been bad because if any of yall have beem to alabama in the summer yall know how hot it gets and Im really conserened with this considering this is my dream car and my first car

Kingsobieski

If you're going to swap engines anyways - why not remove/disassemble your engine first and determine what is broken and if it is worth repairing before proceeding with the swap.

Gumby

run it till it blows........

mcrandrz

Sounds like timing. Too far advance timing will cause knocking and overheating.


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armos

Since you were trying to localize the knock, I assume it's knocking at an idle.

If so, no harm in checking the timing, but I doubt that's the cause of the knock. Spark knock would occur under load when you're driving it. But it would have to be severely, extremely over advanced for it to knock just sitting there idling.
Does it only knock after it's overheated, or does it knock all the time?

As far as the water pump theory - you could try disconnecting the accessory belt that drives the water pump. Let it run for a few moments without the pump and see if it still makes the same noise.

Look for any problems with the cooling system. Are you losing coolant? Is the radiator getting hot when it should be (if it stays cool, you don't have flow). Does the fan run? Does the system hold pressure? Do all the fluids look normal?

Overheating tends to cause a domino effect so there could be multiple problems at this point. But the root cause is likely some failure in the cooling system.

My fear - some problem with the cooling system has caused overheating when the weather warmed up. This in turn caused a blown head gasket, maybe even head damage if it was bad enough. This made the overheating worse, and also contaminated the oil and wiped a bearing, causing the knock.
Could also be a bad lower intake manifold gasket, causing the same contamination, overheating and knock.
I'm just guessing here, don't assume anything without diagnosis. Hopefully it's not as bad as it sounds.
I'd be looking at the cooling system carefully. If the engine is knocking at idle it sounds like it will almost surely have to come out.
If you want to keep the engine, then don't drive it until the knocking is fixed. Driving it will keep doing more damage to it, making a more expensive or impractical repair. If you decide to keep running it, then fill it with some heavy 20w50 oil. It won't save it but it might survive a little longer.

3.4 swap is a reasonable plan if you have some experience and you've read the tutorials and understand what's involved. It won't be as straightforward as just fixing the engine that came with the car.

JC1992rsconvert

Ok so I took to a friend of mine who went to NASCAR tech in moorseville and he seems to think that it's a stuck lifter. And I discovered while I was there that my fan wasn't turning on at all (completely fried) so I replaced it and it still gets to around 240 before the fan turns on so I'm thinking that since my dad done my last oil change and just decided to tell me he had 5w20 oil put in it, I think that when it heats up the oil gets so thin that it just liquifies itself. And also Armos it knocks all the time if you listen very carefully u can here it while it going down the road and the tach reads around 4500. My friend gave me some advice on what to do so I went and got some valve medic and something to that name order an here in about 1 1/2 weeks I'm changing the oil myself and adding this stuff to the oil and see what that does for me. Hopefully a new thermostat, oil, and this valve stuff will help with everything

armos

5w20 is too thin, but that's not causing it to overheat. I agree with changing it though. When I mentioned 20w50 earlier that was for if it has a bad bearing. If that's not what's going on then you probably don't need to be that thick. Factory spec was 5w30 or 10w30. Under the circumstances I'd probably use 10w40 but that's just me.
If you can, check the oil pressure.

Not sure on your car, but I know on a Fiero with these engines the fan doesn't come on until 235F. I don't like it but it's normal for stock. Yours might be the same way. Yours might be controlled by the ECM, and the temperature trigger could be changed with a chip if you are able to make them.
You can also force the fan to run by turning on the A/C.

In hot weather, if the car is just sitting there idling, it's normal for it to keep heating up until the fan comes on. But the fan should be able to easily cool it back off.
As long as the fan has no problem stopping it from getting any hotter, and you make sure you aren't losing coolant over time, then you might not have anything else wrong with the cooling system.

If your radiator is already getting coolant flow (it's hot when the engine is) then the thermostat probably isn't bad.

JC1992rsconvert

Yea i don't think my thermostats bad but the way it is in Alabama during the summer an considering where i live there doing a lot of road work I don't think it would be a bad idea I've decided though that since my dads old 90 RS is just sitting in his bosses junk yard I'd go get some parts off of it tomorrow. If I can I'm going to go ahead and get the valves off along with the egr and some other things to hopefully get it running right

Gumby

sticky lifter, run some MMO in the oil and drive around.