So I was getting gas, got in my car turn the key, and the engine starts then immediately dies (does this a couple times as I tried starting it 3 times) I got home and realized that my subwoofer was no longer getting power. To make things worse, I try and start the car again a couple times once I get home. Starts like normal, then surges from 1500 RPM to 2500 then down again. So I take a drive down the street, then it sputters down to 1000 rpm, almost lose her, then she bounces back up again.

I have no idea what's going on, where to start, or how to diagnose the problem. I've searched, but couldn't find any answers that I could understand.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

3.1 Auto, 70,xxx miles btw.

 

first things first were did u wire the power wire to the amplifier for the sub

 

like said above...what have u done to the car recently? any mods? whats ur setup?

 

It's a kicker bass station, it's loaded and has the amp in the box.
I've had the sub hooked up since December and it's been fine. It's connected to the positive battery terminal.

 

check engine light on ? if so do u know how to pull the codes with a paperclip

 

SES light comes on every now and then while driving, can't exactly say when it does though.

And no, I don't know how to pull codes, haha...

 

1. with the key off the terminals you need to jump are the (A)&(B) terminals
2. turn key to the on position (but do not start) and watch the check engine or service engine light which ever you have. it will blink sotr of like morse code. long blinks and short blinks EXAMPLE 3 long blinks and 2 short blinks = 32.
3. each code stored will blink/flash 3 times in a row before it moves to the next code.
4. to clear codes you must disconnect the battery for at least 1 minute


do that and post up what code numbers the check engine light flashes

it should flash 12 3 times , then any codes , then 12 3 times again

the conector is under the driver side dash on the right near the center console

 

I'm not sure if I've done it correctly, but the only 12 pin connector I found was in the left side under the driver side dash. Also, if I was in the right place the SES light would only blink twice, then stay on.

 

take a picture of the conector and post it ?

 

 

thats it u put the paper clip between the 2 labeled a and b right

also u have to leave it there when u turn the key on , if u remove the paperclip it wont flash any codes

 

I put them in a and b, left the paperclips in there, and once i turned the key i got one flash, then the light stayed on. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong or I've found yet another problem...

 

the paper clip may have lost connection , i like to use a piece of heavy wire strip both ends and jam it into the terminals so i know it wont come loose

try with the paper clip again and or a heavy piece of wire and see what happens

needle nose pliers also work pretty well

when u do it the radiator fan should also kick on and stay on

 

Finally got it right, the first time I believe I may have gotten code 13...so i re did the process and then all I got was three flashes of code 12 followed by another three.

 

that means no engine codes are stored

if the check engine light randomly goes on then off while driving thats usually an indication of a intermitant speed sensor and or an egr issue

check ur battery voltage and make sure ur alternator didnt die on u, if it did low battery voltage can cause all sorts of wierd issues while running , not to mention if u only have 10 volts or less could explain why ur amp also went out as most amplifiers wont run below 10 volts

if u did get a code 13 thats ur 02 sensor

 

Thank you, I think it may be low voltage, it's on the line right about 8 ( not sure what voltage that is..haha) so would that be the issue?

I know my alternator didn't die, I recently replaced it. Now the car's starting normal, now I'm just paranoid to drive haha.

Any advice on how to fix the possible egr or speed sensor problem?

 

do u happen to have a volt meter i dont trust the factory gauges much but if the gauge is on the 8 chances are ur alternator went out

take a volt meter and check voltage at the battery terminals while the car is running

if u do actually have an internitant speed sensor issue or egr issue i would just wait till it breaks

the egr is tricky to diagnose , actually the 3.1 has a digital egr so if it goes u replace the entire unit which is not cheap , sometimes internitant egr problems are just a piece of carbon stuck in the valve or passage which u can fix with by removing the egr and cleaning it and the passage with a small brush and carb or brakleen

the speed sensor will typically be a wire that broken as the sensors dont typically go bad


i would focus first on verifying u have 12 volts witht hte engine off and atleast 13-13.5 with the engine running

 

and btw most reman alternators are junk and fail soon after being installed

 

Oops, I meant to say the line halfway between 8 and 13 volts (When in ON position). While running, it's a little bit above that.

Would a simple battery charge help this?

I also just went to start the car, and it hesitated while turning on, then the RPM's surged. Would this be a low voltage problem aswell?

 

yeah that is low , lol had to go outside and look at the gauge on my car witht he key on engine off it should be close to the 13 and running it should be at or above the 13

hook up the battery charger and then turn the key on , see were the gauge reads with the charger connected if its higher then without the charger connected leave it connected charge the battery and then start it and it will prolly run better

low voltage messes with the injectors and or other sensors

 

I'll be sure to do that, thanks for all your help, greatly appreciated!

 

have the battery tested, they can work but be shot at the same time.

 

actually thats the truth battery in my truck will hold 12 volts , but if the truck doesnt start within the first 4-5 seconds of cranking the battery will die and i have to jump start it

one of these days ill get around to replacing it but since i put my twin turbo camaro on the road i havent been driving the truck , its nice to drive something that doesnt get 6-7mpg in town

 

FYI - Any parts store will test your battery for free (Advance Auto, Autozone, O'reillys, etc.) cuz they are happy to sell you a new one. :-)

 

So I went to Autozone and had the battery checked, they said it was 100%.
Earlier that day I was driving about 25 MPH and the car shut off, but I didn't lose electric. Steering and brakes went out, came to a stop and tried to start the car and it started right up. What's up with that?

 

i had an 86 z28 that i put a engine in had to run all new wiring , i wasnt carefull enough with the main battery cable going past the headers.

would drive the car and all the sudden it would die like u killed the key, turns out the battery cable would touch the header when the engine tq'ed up against the engine mounts.
everytime the cable would touch it would short out and kill the engine.

look for something like that on ur car , also be sure all ur ground wires are good