Distributor o ring too tight?
Distributor o ring too tight?
So I am doing my first distributor change and everything went great until I tried to put the new one in. I marked the rotor well and got the correct tooth, but I couldn't get it to seat all the way, it would stop about 1/4 inch above. I thought for sure it was the oil pump shift but it wasn't. The old dizzy goes in all the way like butter and then when I took the o ring off the new one it went in like butter also. I tried lubing the new oring well with Lucas but didn't help. Is there a safe way force it in there? I have to admit I am tempted to use the old o ring, but I am concerned with problems down the road.. What to do?
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,370
Likes: 18
Car: 1973 Datsun 240Z/ 1985 S-15 Jimmy
Engine: Turbo LX9/To be decided
Transmission: 5-speed/T-5
Axle/Gears: R200 3.90/7.5" 3.73
Re: Distributor o ring too tight?
Once you get the O-ring to slip into the block, it will slide all the way down.
Don't use the old O-ring, if it doesn't fall apart upon trying to remove it from the old dizzy, it will likely leak in short time.
Don't use the old O-ring, if it doesn't fall apart upon trying to remove it from the old dizzy, it will likely leak in short time.
Re: Distributor o ring too tight?
I can't seem to get it to slip into the block is the problem. It is in an awkward place to put heavy pressure since it is in the middle. I suppose tapping softly with a hammer would be a no no also.
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,370
Likes: 18
Car: 1973 Datsun 240Z/ 1985 S-15 Jimmy
Engine: Turbo LX9/To be decided
Transmission: 5-speed/T-5
Axle/Gears: R200 3.90/7.5" 3.73
Re: Distributor o ring too tight?
Yes, it can be tricky, but I have found that while applying downward pressure that wobbling the dizzy in a circular motion (hard to describe) will get the O-ring to compress a little at a time and then slip in.
If you just force it before it's slipped into the block, you will likely tear it and result in an oil leak.
If you just force it before it's slipped into the block, you will likely tear it and result in an oil leak.
Re: Distributor o ring too tight?
Ok I got it in by tightening the bolt little by little and then wiggling it. Now I am trying to decide if I should have someone set the timing or just get my own timing light. How do you read the marks on the crank on the 2.8? I see a notch on the pulley and a piece of metal with teeth but I am not sure what is supposed to be 0.
Also what is the timing advance supposed to be set at for these?
Also what is the timing advance supposed to be set at for these?
Last edited by DirtDawg57; Mar 15, 2014 at 10:53 AM.
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Re: Distributor o ring too tight?
Six was right, just gotta wiggle it in like you did.
If you have the money for an inductive timing light, buy it. Trust me.
Base timing is 10* BTDC or in between the 12 and 8 mark, mine didnt have a 10 mark IIRC. There is a tan wire with a black(or white)strip somewhere close to the blower fan under the hood with a single black connector. Its called the EST bypass, you need to disconnect this connector to set base timing.
Once you disconnect it, then loosen the hold down bolt on the dizzy enough so you can turn it, but not enough that it turns completely freely. Hook the timing light to the battery, and the #1 plug wire. Once you do that you can start the car and check the timing tab with an inductive timing light. If you dont disconnect that EST wire, you wont be able to set base timing because the ECM will be changing the timing.
So you want it at 10* on the tab, which is the line between 12 and 8.
If you have the money for an inductive timing light, buy it. Trust me.
Base timing is 10* BTDC or in between the 12 and 8 mark, mine didnt have a 10 mark IIRC. There is a tan wire with a black(or white)strip somewhere close to the blower fan under the hood with a single black connector. Its called the EST bypass, you need to disconnect this connector to set base timing.
Once you disconnect it, then loosen the hold down bolt on the dizzy enough so you can turn it, but not enough that it turns completely freely. Hook the timing light to the battery, and the #1 plug wire. Once you do that you can start the car and check the timing tab with an inductive timing light. If you dont disconnect that EST wire, you wont be able to set base timing because the ECM will be changing the timing.
So you want it at 10* on the tab, which is the line between 12 and 8.
Re: Distributor o ring too tight?
The problem is there is no sticker on my pulley with the numbers on it. There is a notch, not sure if that is supposed to be 0 or not. Thanks for the help guys!
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,370
Likes: 18
Car: 1973 Datsun 240Z/ 1985 S-15 Jimmy
Engine: Turbo LX9/To be decided
Transmission: 5-speed/T-5
Axle/Gears: R200 3.90/7.5" 3.73
Re: Distributor o ring too tight?
The graduations are on the tab, not the balancer. Wipe it off, you wll see the numbers there.
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